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Linn Ikemi repair

I.D.C. said:
I had one years ago not being my first CD player I was amazed by the detail it throw out the CD collection felt new never heard them play like that before on a Magik cd player. Made me wonder how a CD12 sounded.
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The CD12 is quite simply the best CD player I’ve ever heard, cheapest too! I had one for a couple of years and sold it on for more than I paid, buying an Akurate DS to replace it... at first I thought the Akurate DS was better, but it wasn’t, took a Klimax DS to beat it.
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
The CD12 is quite simply the best CD player I’ve ever heard, cheapest too! I had one for a couple of years and sold it on for more than I paid, buying an Akurate DS to replace it... at first I thought the Akurate DS was better, but it wasn’t, took a Klimax DS to beat it.
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Yea had a full Akurate system. It was good sounding but gave it up due to drop out's and my poor IT skills. Went back to basics with a turntable.
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
It’s a dedicated Sanyo CD mech in the Ikemi (not a DVD mech), there are two variants used depending on the age of the player. It will either be an SF91 or an SF-P101N. They can be bought complete (as in optical block and sled mech all together) for the price of a decent curry, you just need to know what you’re doing when installing them. I put a new mech in my Genki over 18 months ago, cost me about £14, it’s still working absolutely perfectly and it gets used a lot.
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I sent you a PM regarding this. Thank you!
 
Hello to linnfomaniac83:
I have had a LINN IKEMI cd player for many years, and now my transport mechanism is failing. This model (as you know) had special characteristics in the manufacture of the laser unit and the transport mechanism, which were not the same as the Gonki or Klassik models.
The transport motor makes noise when placing the record, and it is difficult for it to do so, but once it gets in place, all the music still sounds great. It would be great to find someone to fix it for me. Would there be a way to send it in and have it fixed? How much would it cost me with the postage?.
My address is in Canary Islands, Spain.
Thank you for answering.
 
Hi,

The laser/mechanism is actually the same as used in the Classik and Genki, it’s the loading mechanism and the electronics that drive it that are very different.

I will look into shipping, obviously there’s a lot going on at the moment with Brexit. It may be that the shipping is more expensive than the repair itself.
 
Hello again linnfomaniac83:
First of all, thanks for replying. As I am not sure if it is simply the transport mechanism (I am not a technician), and it could also be the loading mechanism and the electronics that drives it, could you tell me if you could get a replacement for that last thing and how much would the cost be then, fixing for everything, including both?.
I would take care, from here, to find out informationout about the transport costs to where you are (I imagine in the United Kingdom). Then the return to the Canary Islands (Spain) you would have to consult yourself. I would bear all those expenses, of course.
I leave you my private email ([email protected]), because rather these are private matters, and I don't want to be bothering the rest of the Forum.
Thanks a lot.
 
Just got my hands on a used Ikemi with the same symptoms but the Sanyo mechs I've found are over $100 USD and wont ship to Puerto Rico. :(
 
vicdiaz said:
Just got my hands on a used Ikemi with the same symptoms but the Sanyo mechs I've found are over $100 USD and wont ship to Puerto Rico. :(
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Hi Vic, drop me a PM on here or on Facebook, I’ll help you out with this... and for a lot less than $100 USD I should imagine.
 
delmundomundial said:
Hello to linnfomaniac83:
I have had a LINN IKEMI cd player for many years, and now my transport mechanism is failing. This model (as you know) had special characteristics in the manufacture of the laser unit and the transport mechanism, which were not the same as the Gonki or Klassik models.
The transport motor makes noise when placing the record, and it is difficult for it to do so, but once it gets in place, all the music still sounds great. It would be great to find someone to fix it for me. Would there be a way to send it in and have it fixed? How much would it cost me with the postage?.
My address is in Canary Islands, Spain.
Thank you for answering.
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There is a CD player expert in the Canary Islands who posts regularly on diyaudio. His username is ManoloMos. I suggest you contact him. He's very knowledgeable.
 
Darran.H said:
I still repair and service lots of Linn. Have a pile of Lingos and Klouts etc to work on this week.

Kairn has two major issues with age, original brilliant power supply failure, changing all the electrolytics will cure around 30%, rest are a pain to fix.
Back up battery failure, can leak over the control board destroying lots of tracks on the pcb.

CD players, trying to find original laser mechanisms is nigh on impossible these days, the failure rate of available copy mechs I tried was in excess 85%, and I tried a lot from different suppliers.

I do not charge for something I spend hours on and cannot fix due to lack of spares availability so certain products I no longer take in as it makes no financial sense.
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Hi, bit of testy feely if you don't mind. I 'lost' the (not so) Brilliant power supply in my numeric and then Karik, did the 47uf replacement and other bit rebuilds. Numerik didn't light up but, Karik is back in action. I'm going to go over the board of the Numerik now I've got the schematic

Then my Kairn died (toroidal) display went blank and power led lights then fades. I must have broken too many mirrors, it's been a bad day. Display panel doesn't light up - checked the battery (it's fine), 3 x neighbouring SMD caps and 1 x 1001 look toasty.

I phoned Linn and didn't find them very helpful at all and whilst I have the wiring diagrams to hand the figures quoted by Linn on that board make no sense to me at all. I read the schematic as 22uf for the caps. The 1001 - no problem (ribbon arrived) Friday. I can see values of 50v but Linn offered advice of 100v and uf readings way off the diagram.

And of course, there are no markings on the capacitors.

I don't want to write it off (I'm in France) and am happy to dabble but I am sick of the spin and: 'sorry, just buy a new preamp but make sure it is Akurate or beyond because we don't repair or offer advice on older stuff, I realise it seems expensive but you can't take it with you'!

Richard
 
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