Linn Brilliant SMPS - naked!
- Thread starter Paul R
- Start date
90slinn
New Member
Thanks to all of the shared information.
My Linn Numerik DAC shown the same sympton last week,
After push the 'power on' button, the pilot lamp lights up about 2 seconds, and faid out.
I opened up the Brilliant SMPS, 2 Nichicon Capacitors starts to leak, I replaced the 47uF and 100uF on the triggering rails. But the SMPS still cannot start to work.
I noted the output of -24V rail is always measured at 0V; while the other two output voltage +24V and +10V are up in the very begining and fall down to 0V gradually.
I measure the surface mounted 10uF/35V titian capacitor (yellow) filters the -24V DC, it is shorted; that is the reason SMPS goes into protection mode.
I removed all 3 pieces of 10uF/35V capacitors (other two might go faulty soon), and the SMPS gets up and running fine.
Hello all.
Glad I found this thread. I also have a broken wakonda from 94' with the same symptoms. Tried the 85° cap - without success - and all the other normal caps - without success.
BUT one of the tantal smd caps (yellow ones on the back) is also shortened.
Problem is I can not get it from my local dealers - so I have to order online. So detailed specs - mainly the internal resistance ESR I don't know!
Can anyone help me to find the right cap?
I live in Europe / Austria.
Facts i know:
10uF
35V
Tantal SMD
Size [mm]: 4.2 x 6.8 and about 3mm hight mounted
would be very happy to get the right caps..
Best regards from foggy austria
Alex
90slinn
New Member
Hi all again,
thanks for the replies. Actually thats what I did - with success ;-) very happy about that!
Detail:
First I only replaced the shortened one with the result of psssss... shortening one of the others so I replaced all 3 of them AND the 20 year old wakonda came back to light ;-) after 5 years or so. Now waiting to be sold.
As I could not get any SMDs I used standard tantalum capacitors with 10uF/35V. See pictures of the result.
Also I replaced all electrolyte caps of the PS - just in case...
Again many thanks to the thread participants and the help from this forum - also diyaudio helped a little.
All the best
Br Alex
Before:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzWcK5YZGOHuUjVjcVdsUDlFS00/edit?usp=sharing
after:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzWcK5YZGOHuUHZzMzNLdFpLc0k/edit?usp=sharing
Hello all,
on my Linn Brilliant Power Supply the resistor (R22) placed next to the red cable is burned out, so I can not read the color of the 3. ring. Can someone give me the specs of this resistor? What I read for the other color rings is: Red, Brown, ???, Black, Gold so about 21x ohms.
I have marked the resistor on the picture.
on my Linn Brilliant Power Supply the resistor (R22) placed next to the red cable is burned out, so I can not read the color of the 3. ring. Can someone give me the specs of this resistor? What I read for the other color rings is: Red, Brown, ???, Black, Gold so about 21x ohms.
I have marked the resistor on the picture.
Paul R
pfm Member
According to the schematic R22 should be 47R.
Schematic from this thread at DIYAidio. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...matic-without-smps-schematic-smps-wanted.html
I suspect that this resistor failing is a symptom not a cause.
Paul
Schematic from this thread at DIYAidio. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...matic-without-smps-schematic-smps-wanted.html
I suspect that this resistor failing is a symptom not a cause.
Paul
Hi guys, sorry to pick up this zombie thread yet again but it really is the only resource on the web to help with Brilliant problems. The info above is extremely helpful as others have said but it does not cover everything I need to know for my own case.
I am looking at one of my Numeriks which went belly up a year or so back. Yes I have other gear now which gets me around it but it seems a waste to bin a wonderful piece of kit for the sake of a few passive components so I want to revive it and maybe press it back into service in a supporting role. The info above is based around pics which show that the Brilliant PCBs are not from a unit like mine and the documentation, (schematics and BOM), don't seem to be absolutely on the ball either. The unit is in the circular ribbed case with 3 "bumps" around the circumference. I can't seem to post pics direct so here are a couple I'll put up on Dropbox for now.
These are pics of my own PCBs and, if you compare, you will see they have singificantly more components in place on the mains input "AVS Start" board. I need to replace a couple and there are oddities which I need to rule out.
The two resistors labelled R14/R15 in the centre of the AVS Start board are crumbling and discoloured. They are listed as 9k1 in the Kairn PDF but they don't seem to have anything left on them which looks like that colouring at all. I don't doubt that is correct for the Kairn variant but can anyone confirm that this is also correct for a Numerik supply?
The ringed cap labelled C5 on the same board is an oddity too. This is one which seems to carry the blame for a few breakdowns so I'm replacing it as a matter of course. The posted documentation shows it as N/C not fitted but you can see it's there, along with Q1 and other components. My own C5 is very small, so small that the labelling on the cap body shows "16V 1" before it falls off the edge. Stupid to make the lettering so big that it can possibly not all be shown on the can! I'm confident it should be 10uF 16V but it could possibly be 100uF so once again, can anyone confirm?
On the SMPS board there seems to be that one questionable resistor which has cropped up before and again doesn't seem to be easily tied down. It is listed as 47R but again what I see doesn't seem to tie in with this. With Yellow Violet Black Brown Brown Red it looks like a 1% 50ppm 4k7 but that first brown may be a discoloured Gold which would make it 47R. Anyone know if it is constant over the range of units?
That seems to be all except to say that GP 105deg electrolytic caps all round as they are all pretty much standard devices, replace the 3x 10uF/35V tants, and what doesn't seem to have been mentioned earlier, make sure to clean off all carbonisation and reflow all solder around some of the high voltage areas as it gets pretty ropey with the heat and stress. (And it takes a lot for me to mention that as I'm not a fan of the "inevitable dry joint must be somewhere" school of troubleshooting.)
I am looking at one of my Numeriks which went belly up a year or so back. Yes I have other gear now which gets me around it but it seems a waste to bin a wonderful piece of kit for the sake of a few passive components so I want to revive it and maybe press it back into service in a supporting role. The info above is based around pics which show that the Brilliant PCBs are not from a unit like mine and the documentation, (schematics and BOM), don't seem to be absolutely on the ball either. The unit is in the circular ribbed case with 3 "bumps" around the circumference. I can't seem to post pics direct so here are a couple I'll put up on Dropbox for now.
These are pics of my own PCBs and, if you compare, you will see they have singificantly more components in place on the mains input "AVS Start" board. I need to replace a couple and there are oddities which I need to rule out.
The two resistors labelled R14/R15 in the centre of the AVS Start board are crumbling and discoloured. They are listed as 9k1 in the Kairn PDF but they don't seem to have anything left on them which looks like that colouring at all. I don't doubt that is correct for the Kairn variant but can anyone confirm that this is also correct for a Numerik supply?
The ringed cap labelled C5 on the same board is an oddity too. This is one which seems to carry the blame for a few breakdowns so I'm replacing it as a matter of course. The posted documentation shows it as N/C not fitted but you can see it's there, along with Q1 and other components. My own C5 is very small, so small that the labelling on the cap body shows "16V 1" before it falls off the edge. Stupid to make the lettering so big that it can possibly not all be shown on the can! I'm confident it should be 10uF 16V but it could possibly be 100uF so once again, can anyone confirm?
On the SMPS board there seems to be that one questionable resistor which has cropped up before and again doesn't seem to be easily tied down. It is listed as 47R but again what I see doesn't seem to tie in with this. With Yellow Violet Black Brown Brown Red it looks like a 1% 50ppm 4k7 but that first brown may be a discoloured Gold which would make it 47R. Anyone know if it is constant over the range of units?
That seems to be all except to say that GP 105deg electrolytic caps all round as they are all pretty much standard devices, replace the 3x 10uF/35V tants, and what doesn't seem to have been mentioned earlier, make sure to clean off all carbonisation and reflow all solder around some of the high voltage areas as it gets pretty ropey with the heat and stress. (And it takes a lot for me to mention that as I'm not a fan of the "inevitable dry joint must be somewhere" school of troubleshooting.)
I would also be curious to know if anyone can explain the mystical components D3 and C5 to the right middle of Pg1 in the posted schematics! I've chased them through and I can confirm, they definitely do both start at the same line and connect together without any other tracking to their common connection. There seems nothing special about the tracking around the whole closed loop that the pair make, so no deliberate inductive elements in the PCB tracks. Seems bloody odd to me!
Lars Porsena
New Member
I wonder if anyone can help with further suggestions. I did the repair to the 47uf capacitor and replace the adjoining 220uf at the same time and was well for a few months, and then the unit died again. In his original post, Paul R talked of replacing all the capacitors, and David Ellwood in his reply recommended re-capping as a precaution.
I have replaced the replacements, in case they have overheated, and also the three tantalum ones on the top as 09slinn suggested, but they all measured fine when taken out and that hasn't fixed it.
Does anyone know of other common faults or have any other ideas, please?
I have replaced the replacements, in case they have overheated, and also the three tantalum ones on the top as 09slinn suggested, but they all measured fine when taken out and that hasn't fixed it.
Does anyone know of other common faults or have any other ideas, please?
david ellwood
Kirabosi Kognoscente
probs 10u 35v tants, you can use leaded replacements to save the hassle of smd