Bad luck with the short. Believe me we've all done it at some time or other. It is often safer to check on voltages around transistors by reading from the legs of other passive components like resistors. It is all too easy to slip on the legs of a transistor and bridge across its other pins.
Also don't automatically assume that the transistor which has blown is the one you were working on! Shorting out a junction may close off that transistor's action safely but cause damage to others around it. With Q6 and Q7 connected as they are, it would be very easy to damage one when working on the other. These problems can often have a knock on effect to other areas.
Something else to remember is that, when you are measuring resistance with your meter, you cannot reliably measure it with the test device in place on the PCB. There will very possibly be other components in place which will affect the readings. To be sure, you should carefully unsolder one leg of the device from the board and measure it then. That is why it may have been easier to read the values of resistors direct from their colour codes where possible.
When checking out suspect transistors, a simple first line of attack is to check the resistance between each of the pairs of pins. A transistor is basically 2 diodes connected together at the base like this:
( O----l>l----O represents each diode.)
collector / base / emitter
O----l<l----O----l>l----O
(Hope this is clear!)
You can get an idea of the serviceability of a transistor by checking each of the junctions BOTH WAYS as though they were simply diodes.
Start with the Base/Emitter junction. Measure its resistance with the red lead to the emitter and black lead to the base. Then reverse the leads and read it again. Do the same with the Base/Collector junction, then finally with the Collector/Emitter junction.
You should find that you get a very high reading in one direction and a low reading in the other for the first 2, but the Collector/Emitter readings should both be high as no matter which way round you measure it there is always a reverse biased diode in the path.
As a note here, NPN transistors will give their low readings with the leads the opposite way around to PNP ones. Don't worry too much about values, and beware of assuming a transistor is dead if it gives a suspicious low reading when it should be high if it is still in place in the PCB, remember that the other components around it will affect things. Problematically this can occasionally be due to elements like safety diodes or bias resistors built into the transistor itself.
Try here for some more useful information:
http://www.elexp.com/t_test.htm
Do any of the transistors have their numeric codes written on? It may be easier and fairly cheap to just replace that whole section if they are not exotic. While it may only be possible to accurately translate the pace of the attack transients of the notes of a bird twittering in a tree in the background of the open air performance of Handel's Water Music on original instruments and in original barges when you have the correct Linn semiconductors blessed with holy water by a naked Count Ivor Tefenbraum on the night of the October new moon, or the anecdotally recommended improved substitue produced using traditional sword making techniques in quantities of 3 per month by warrior monks in the Toshiba sponsored Buddhist monastery in the mountains of Northern Honshu, to just get things up and running there WILL be a lot of possible alternatives which you could easily get and use. (Do I win the prize for the longest single sentence in board history?)
On the subject of transistor pins, if you don't know anything about case pinouts then one reliable way to identify them is to trace the tracks from each leg to their nearest named component and then see which one that would be from the schematic. In trying to get replacements you would obviously be aware of the pinout of what you are replacing and stick to that for the new component.
Also finally, be aware that this board is LIVE on the mains even when the unit is switched off, and there are components which will hold dangerous charges for some time after unplugging it!!! (Can't say those things often enough!)
