Linn Aktive Crossover Repair

[nostromo]

Dear PFM members,

I need your help/advice with repairing my crossover. I went a bit mad after I miss-diagnosed a fault with my system and decided I'd tackle an un-related issue first that had been niggling me for a while. So instead of fixing the major issue ( a blown channel on one of my LK280 amps) I decided I wanted to fix the crossover first and for once and forever. Often when I unplug and re-plug the XLR connectors on the Aktive I get a crackling sound that tells me the connection is not well made and I remedy this by either pushing in harder or messing around with the cable and plug until everything works...it felt very unsatisfactory.

Then, I think I pushed so hard on the XLR plugs that I must have dislodged the XLR socket on the PCB or that the solder points on the PCB became undone. Also in the past I have cleaned the XLR pins with solvent cleaners and even fine sanding (wet and dry stuff). They've always looked tarnished to me so I've wanted to replace them with silver pinned XLRs for a long while. So I attacked the PCB and removed all the XLR sockets in a session of carnage, come what may style. I'm regretful now and seek your advice.

Having a closer look, it seems I've damaged the PCB board traces. So I've been swotting up on Youtube on how to repair these traces. This might be another big mistake/route I'm embarking on.

Questions:

1) Should I get this PCB repaired professionally? Any recommendations? Estimates of cost?
2) Should I try and do it myself? Any advice with how best to?
3) These XLR sockets seem to be unobtainium...are they available? From where? are silver pinned ones available?
4) I really don't want to re-use these particular XLR sockets....should I buy a breakout box/panel with Neutrik silver pinned 3-Pin XLR sockets and have that stuck out the back of the chassis as an add-on box? I'm planning to renew all the cables too with silver plugs (probably from designacable 1.2M lengths).

I would appreciate your thoughts....you're welcome to have a laugh at my predicament too if you wish.

 

[david ellwood]

Those don’t look like 22u rubicons.

I’d suggest making a replacement back panel with new XLR connectors and use wire to connect them to the outputs on the pcb.

Personally I’m not a fan of the bingo board.

it looks like an awful lot of work to put right but well worth it.

 

[nostromo]

Those don’t look like 22u rubicons.

I’d suggest making a replacement back panel with new XLR connectors and use wire to connect them to the outputs on the pcb.

Personally I’m not a fan of the bingo board.

it looks like an awful lot of work to put right but well worth it.

You're right, they are Elna caps. About 5 years ago I changed them as a re-capping exercise. They sound just fine.

I'm coming to the same conclusion, a replacement back panel or a slender back add-on box with new XLR sockets. I need to repair the PCB traces first...somehow.

I'm ambivalent about the bingo boards. I do have another Aktiv without the bingo boards but that too now has a dry solder joint on the signal input XLR. But when it was working I do recall the bass felt more controlled and faster. The bingo is good for lower level listening....I can't believe I just wrote that as most of my listening is done at the point of distortion....i.e. full on, especially with heavy rock stuff.

Thank you for your thoughts.