How easy is re-wiring a tonearm?
- Thread starter SteveG
- Start date
Craig B
Re:trophile
The process is somewhat more convenient with dynamically balanced RB tonearms vs. statically balanced ones.
On the dynamically balanced models (RB300 and up) the acorn nuts either side of the bearing yoke are removed, followed by the VTF spring side cover (the latter after setting the dial to 3 to unload the spring and then removing the 2 x 2mm Allen head bolts that secure the cover) allowing the tonearm tube to be separated from the bearing yoke without disturbing the vertical bearing pre-load. This is done after the external wiring harness plug has been disconnected from the internal wiring within the base of the arm pillar. Obviously, with the tonearm tube off, routing new internal wire is much easier with less risk of stripping off wire insulation and/or breaking wires whilst drawing them through the hole in the underside of the tube. Also, the two rubber grommets within the vertical bearing tube that guide/protect the internal wire may be preserved.
With statically balanced models (RB100, RB101, RB110, RB220, RB250, RB251) removal of the arm tube is not recommended, as the bearings need be disassembled to do so; thus making the process more of a fishing expedition. At least, with the end stub removed, it is easy enough to feed the signal wires forward and draw the ground wire backward.
With either RB type, I'm not a fan of the idea put forth by the aftermarket wiring kit outfits to unnecessarily ground the tonearm tube at the headshell end after scraping or sanding off paint within the tube end; especially so, when Rega went to the trouble of designing in a recess in the end stub tread that the original metal ground strip fits into.
PM if you'd like detailed instructions.
On the dynamically balanced models (RB300 and up) the acorn nuts either side of the bearing yoke are removed, followed by the VTF spring side cover (the latter after setting the dial to 3 to unload the spring and then removing the 2 x 2mm Allen head bolts that secure the cover) allowing the tonearm tube to be separated from the bearing yoke without disturbing the vertical bearing pre-load. This is done after the external wiring harness plug has been disconnected from the internal wiring within the base of the arm pillar. Obviously, with the tonearm tube off, routing new internal wire is much easier with less risk of stripping off wire insulation and/or breaking wires whilst drawing them through the hole in the underside of the tube. Also, the two rubber grommets within the vertical bearing tube that guide/protect the internal wire may be preserved.
With statically balanced models (RB100, RB101, RB110, RB220, RB250, RB251) removal of the arm tube is not recommended, as the bearings need be disassembled to do so; thus making the process more of a fishing expedition. At least, with the end stub removed, it is easy enough to feed the signal wires forward and draw the ground wire backward.
With either RB type, I'm not a fan of the idea put forth by the aftermarket wiring kit outfits to unnecessarily ground the tonearm tube at the headshell end after scraping or sanding off paint within the tube end; especially so, when Rega went to the trouble of designing in a recess in the end stub tread that the original metal ground strip fits into.
PM if you'd like detailed instructions.
Hi SteveG
I was having a look around because I was thinking of doing the same and found this thread.........don't know if I attached it correctly though.
https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/posts/695803/
Regards
Geordie
I was having a look around because I was thinking of doing the same and found this thread.........don't know if I attached it correctly though.
https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/posts/695803/
Regards
Geordie