HiCap service

[Labrax]

Hi All.

I’ve just got one of Les’s Hicap service Kits, which consists : 2x 22000uF caps, 4x Tantalum caps, a couple of new pads for the LM317’s and various non-ferrous nuts and bolts.

It all looks straight forward enough and the instructions are very clear.

Whilst I’m doing this, is there anything else I could/should be doing. Mind you there is not much left to do anything with.

Any ideas/thoughts will be gratefully received.

Thanks

Rob

 

[LesW]

That's about as heavy as it gets - there's so little in there to change (Naim devotees will please not take this as *slagging off* but factual content), that changing anything else is just shuffling deckchairs. You might experiment with different mains leads though. I still prefer to use the PSU as just that and NOT take the signal through it as per factory convention.

 

[Labrax]

Thanks Les

I’ve just finished the service and it all went very well, although it was a bit tricky to desolder the regulators. Needed to use a solder sucker and some copper braid.

I’m going to get our electronics technician at work to give it the once over before trying it out tonight.

I will post findings (if it doesn’t go super nova) soon.

Point taken about the signal routing back through the Hicap but as I’m sure where I’m going with my power amps, I’ll keep it all as it is for the time being.

Will give you a call soon to talk about power amp options.

Thanks

Rob

 

[LesW]

Glad you're fixed, up and running. Sensible idea to have a techie check the work for you.

There's a tip about desoldering that wouldn't go amiss here. Ordinary tin/lead solder is sometimes resistant to the spring loaded 'solder slurpers':
Reflow the joint before sucking the molten solder with some low melting point tin/lead/silver and the result should now be solder free.

 

[Labrax]

Thanks for the tip Les.

Yep, it all went very well and even the techie at work said I had done a good job on the soldering. Only I did manage to melt a small bit of the outer sleeve one of the other wires. You really need to watch more than just the tip of the iron, don’t you. Anyway, one small piece of tape and everything’s OK.

Checked the output voltages as 24.8 and 25.1V and I presume this is fine.

I’ll post results in the audio discussion forum.

Regards

Rob