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Hadcock setup & tweaking

Tony L

Tony L

Administrator
Any Hadcock users here on pfm?

I’ve recently bought a second hand 242 SE and I like it very much. I think I’ve assembled it correctly but I’m interested in running a few things past anyone with more experience than myself. For the benefit of those who have not worked with one of these one is presented with a long narrow cardboard box with various bits of metal pushed in a foam padding that can be put together in a variety of very slightly different ways to produce something that should end up looking vaguely like a tonearm. The instruction “manual” (two sided piece of paper) is basic in the extreme and only has a few pretty rough line drawings that don’t answer all questions. After some fiddling, thinking and tweaking I’ve ended up with this:

409881122_420394035b_o.jpg


Looking at many pictures on the web there doesn’t seem to be 100% agreement on whether the bias weight arm should (as I have it) drop the weight over and in front of the cuing lift, or point up a bit and drop it behind. The way I have it looks far more logical to me as the pull is parallel to the record and will not impact azimuth. I assume I’ve got this right? The picture is a little misleading as it looks like the cuing platform is touching the arm in the cued position, it’s not, there’s a couple of mm clearance and plenty more when playing a record.

Is it normal to want an extra / heavier bias weight? My copy of HFS75 indicates I want a little more side thrust than I'm getting from the single weight at the end of it's arm.

Can anyone spot anything I’ve done wrong? I don’t think I have, but I’m keen to learn any tips and tricks as this is the first Hadcock I’ve ever set up. It certainly sounds wonderful and everything conventional is bang ‘in’ eg. pivot to spindle distance, alignment, azimuth, tracking weight etc.

Tony.
 
in a 60/70's chrome sort of way. I have no idea if you have set it up right but according to your initial reports it will be keeping other NA users thinking about other possibilities for their decks. I like it’s ‘laboratory’ look with its wires exiting into a terminal block. The Spacearm I have looks more functional but has less visual appeal than your Hadcock.

Martin
 
Tony,

It looks fine to me; I've had one for over twenty years. The Hadcock's aren't too difficult to set up really. In many ways set-up. azimuth in particular, is better on unipivots. as for bias weights, the older Hadcocks had two bias weights, with an extra one with a slot cut in it to add to the standard weight on the thread.

Charlie
 
Hi there
1/There should be a second bias weight that can be added to the err string this will give you more bias.
2/Pity you have not taken a pic from directly above so that the geometry can be seen,but as far as I remember from the 228 the bias arm and the line of the err string should be at right angles when the stylus is on or near the inner groove.
Good luck I never got on with the 228 but that was years ago when the counterweight shaft was mounted in a rubber bush and the counterweight assembly hung at an alarming angle from the back,I think they are a bit better made these days.
 
cobbers said:
2/Pity you have not taken a pic from directly above so that the geometry can be seen,but as far as I remember from the 228 the bias arm and the line of the err string should be at right angles when the stylus is on or near the inner groove.
Click to expand...

Thanks - that helped me understand a diagram in the manual - it's when the cart is 4.5" from the centre spindle the arm and bias outrigger arm should be parallel to one another - I've just checked and they are.

Tony.
 
How does it sound / compare Tony?
Click to expand...

It’s very good IMHO – quite significantly more open and clear in the mid and top, more depth / space and neutrality. The only down is a perhaps a perceived lack of slam / punch compared to the Spacearm, but I suspect much of this is down to increased clarity – it gives a slightly gentle but very clear view of what is going on. It is certainly a very decent arm as the Spacearm is not an easy thing to beat on it’s own turf at all – I really like it.

Tony.
 
Tony, I've been looking at the picture and it seems to bear a resemblance to a Decca London unipivot, any chance of a picture of the whole arm/headshell?


Some more pics would be nice, but ignore the bit about the Decca London, I've just found the magazine with the feature and there is no similarity.
 
Getting a bit dark to get anything decent photo wise now but some nice ones of someone else's 242 SE here: www.soundscapehifi.com/hadcock.htm - mine is just the same but has a black headshell rather than the kind of grey in the pic.

Tony.

PS I'd argue that the top pic from HiFi+ has the Bias arm at completely the wrong angle!
 
Tony L said:
Getting a bit dark to get anything decent photo wise now but some nice ones of someone else's 242 SE here: www.soundscapehifi.com/hadcock.htm - mine is just the same but has a black headshell rather than the kind of grey in the pic.

Tony.

PS I'd argue that the top pic from HiFi+ has the Bias arm at completely the wrong angle!
Click to expand...

Thanks Tony,

The headshell is similar to those on the Nottingham Analogue arms.

I'd agree about the Bias arm, in any thread and falling weight system the thread to the arm must be exactly level. If it isn't it will affect the azimuth.
The one in the picture is so far out it isn't applying any Bias at all, it's just lifting the left side of the arm.

btw, the one in your picture needs to come down a fraction to be perfect!

Are those suggested prices for real? Seems a tad pricey.
 
Tony,

I have a copy of the 10-page expert set-up guide for the Hadcock GH242 by Hi-Audio if you'd like it. It goes through set-up to the nth degree with text and pictures and has some useful tips on how to get the best out of it. If you PM me your addy I'll send it to you.

Mike
 
The Cartridge man; Len Gregory would be worth chatting to - He has been involved in both Nottingham Analogue & Haydock for some time. He will try to sell you his cartridge of course but as you have been heading in that direction reluctantly ever since I registered [5yrs ago] It will save you a bit of time reaching Nivana:D
 
Another resurrection...……………

I had to take the armboard (with ARO) off the LP12 yesterday and decided to put my GH228 Export on instead (probably current spec', but which looks identical to Tony's 242 of 2007). It has sat for an age, the arm base assembly stored on its armboard, near certainly last used with a DV.

The last time that it was used, I obviously just moved everything around to get things set and to work. Cutting a long story short, getting the base, arm lift, and anti-skate wire logically aligned proved impossible. I cut about 6mm off the anti-skate wire that holds the pulley, so that the weight and thread did not foul the arm lift. Be warned if you do this - the wire is held in a very small hole in a boss by what looks like super-glue and that will have to be drilled out before you can reinsert the wire - and that needs a 1mm twist drill.

BUT it has been well worth it - I like this above the ARO - more detail, most especially in the bass, a freer, more open and airy sound. This is very good indeed.

Anyone in the market for an ARO etc.?
 
Hadcock prices (second-hand) have soared too.
The one here was essentially unused and I was the only bidder 2-3 years back...…………………..

The one major hassle is the vast number of variants that occur under only 2(?) model numbers and even the 242 and 228 that are available now, look essentially identical.

I stripped the LP12 to fit a new armboard to mark out the position for drilling for an FXR - if that can come close to the Hadcock, leave alone better it...……………………………………………..
 
I use a Hadcock 242 Silver and a Musicmaster Cartridge & the pre-fitted Isolator, it was me that suggested to George Hadcock via Len Gregory that the original flexible counterweight stub which caused brewers droop and daily weight adjustment should be replaced with a ridged mounted stub subsequently George sent me the new bearing assembly with ridged stub. I saw on Audiogon a write up on the XTC counterweight by eXact audio otherwise known as John Choong available on the bay, John made a one off for me. In my case the C.O.G. appears to be within a few millimeters of the stylus tip ie near as dammit correct so for me in this application the asymmetric CW is superb. His approach was to use existing components saving me money the price was only 10% over the normal price.
The counterweight came in a neat blue box, the components in resealable bags, it also included the appropriate allen keys and instructions. once fixed does not move and is easier to set up. I could not attach a new picture of my phone so I attached a promo picture and one with my previous Musicmaker and thicker "Isolator"

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I'm on my second Hadcock 242se, I had an (the very first) Incognito rewired 242se about 18-19 years ago on a few decks, STD 305M, Thorens TD160b and eventually an NA Hyperspace c/w Wave mechanic PSU. With the Hyperspace having a second armboard I tried the Hadcock against a no of different tonearms, NA Mentor, Roksan Tabriz i, SME IV and a SME M2-10. Using three different cartridges, Lyra Argo, WB Ply (Benz) and the Shure V15-Vmxr. I preferred the Hadcock over the NA mentor, Tabriz and the SME IV * . I decided to keep the Hadcock & Shure and M2-10 & Argo combos but then sold everything.
I now use another Hadcock 242 Export Cryo, ( I think I'll probably rewire it) on my Dais but I'm keen to try some other tonearms when funds allow, possibly Graham, Schroeder or Thales.

* The SME IV was a better tonearm in many ways, especially the fit, finish, build quality etc, really easy to set up accurately and nice to use, really wide soundstage but unfortunately a rather boring presentation lacking in vitality IMO.
 
The only hassle, as ever, is that you very quickly get used to a changed sound, and I am not about to change ARO-228-ARO-228 etc. just to enforce my appreciation of the 228.

The first LP that I put on with the 228, I assumed that I'd picked an especially impressive pressing, but no, the sound from the 228...…… Cart' is a Delos BTW.

I actually like the appearance of the 228 - shiny chrome throughout, very simple, minimalist design. The hassle about set-up is because it is a series of simple parts that each have 360 degree rotation available, so there are literally infinite possibilities available.

The (Corian) armboard for the FSR is drilled but I'd like to polish it before fitting...
 
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