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Got Fleas?

I ordered just the XO and PCBS seeing as though I already had most of the bits. Will a BC547B and any 5mm green Led be suitable?
Yes, of course! It's a board for bodgers, and there's nothing special about any of the parts :)

So long as the Tent XO gets 4.8 to 5.2v you're fine. Red leds seem to give 1.65-18v, greens about 1.95 and blue /violet vary 2.8-3.6ish, so if you wanted you could twiddle the output voltage with adjustment of R6(see manual). Differences between a leds of the same colour are much smaller than the amount it will drift due to temperature /warm-up.

The slightly lower current gain of the 547B (as against C) is insignificant - it will just drop a few more 1/100ths of a volt across the cap multiplier.
 
hacker said:
I can't answer your questions (although I suspect the green LED will be fine), but if you do need any of the other parts, there's still a couple of BC547Cs and 47pf C0Gs left over... I got a few extra just in case people needed some after the group buy had finished.

Cheers mate and thanks again;)
BTW do you have any of those 3.3uf Wima's going spare you want to sell? I could make use of a few of those in another project

I guess I should have just ordered the full kit, Appart from not having the BC547 and Led soldered in I'm ready to go, if someone can confirm the BC547B is ok I'll fire it up
 
martin clark said:
Yes, of course! It's a board for bodgers, and there's nothing special about any of the parts :)

So long as the Tent XO gets 4.8 to 5.2v you're fine. Red leds seem to give 1.65-18v, greens about 1.95 and blue /violet vary 2.8-3.6ish, so if you wanted you could twiddle the output voltage with adjustment of R6(see manual). The slightly lower current gain of the 547B (as against C) is insignificant - it will just drop a few more 1/100ths of a volt across teh cap multiplier.

Beat me:D Cheers Martin!
 
BTW I've heard from various people the Tent XO's need a couple of hours run in before they sound their best
Interesting comment - I'd noticed that too, always thought it was caps in a new PSU though.
 
martin clark said:
BTW I've heard from various people the Tent XO's need a couple of hours run in before they sound their best
Interesting comment - I'd noticed that too, always thought it was caps in a new PSU though.

Your probably right Martin but theres no knowing for sure in this hobby;)
I'm just trying to see if I've got a small choke I can stick in the little psu similar to what you use, I've got a few small bobbin types but not sure of the value.


Your a bit slow guys, has anybody else got theirs up and running yet:D
 
Hey hey - it's turbo Ron!

(Watching from the sidelines because SMD and meddling with CD players scares me) ;)
 
RichardH said:
Hey hey - it's turbo Ron!

(Watching from the sidelines because SMD and meddling with CD players scares me) ;)

How you doing Rich:)
I'm sure you'd have no problems building and fitting this flea mate, theres enough guys on here who could give you some help and advice if you got stuck
 
Fine thanks ron - nice to see you posting back on PFM. Still not fixed that flipping Stingray bass amp though - maybe soon....

Tell the truth I have a Superclock 2 still waiting to be fitted. I think I'll wait until I can have a clean run at it without being berated for the CD player not being available.
 
RichardH said:
(Watching from the sidelines because SMD and meddling with CD players scares me) ;)

Come on Richard!
Ive never done smt before, in fact didnt even think there was smt components in the package until i looked really really close :eek: .Damn they are small but it was fairly easy - even with my Maplin iron and a hangover.

All i did was dot with solder one pad for each of the six components, press the component with something small (tweezer?) over the pads and touch the soldered pad, the component will be moved down onto the pad.

Then just dot the other side (while holding it still just incase it moves).

You can also dot both pads and hold component then touch each side but risk not getting the component as flat as possible (because each side solidifies as quick as you get to the other one)

Besides there are no smt op amps etc which I guess might have been a different story! ;)

So come on get it built :D its very good, and yes I was nervous messing in my cd player too, hence my 100 questions to poor Martin (god) Clark
 
RichardH said:
Fine thanks ron - nice to see you posting back on PFM. Still not fixed that flipping Stingray bass amp though - maybe soon....

Tell the truth I have a Superclock 2 still waiting to be fitted. I think I'll wait until I can have a clean run at it without being berated for the CD player not being available.

Cheers Richard! Yes, its been a while, I've been working on other projects which I didn't think would be of much interest to people on here to be honest:)

You've still not sorted out that Stingray then, well at least it'll give you something to do at some stage

You could always put up a new thread when you get around to fitting the Superclock if it looks a bit fiddly
 
It's the removal of the bits from the CD player that worries me more than the fitting of new ones - I've done a few SMD resistors and op amps without too much trouble.

Maybe that superclock can be my Easter project....
 
Bah! Flog the superclock on eBay and get a Flea in there! You'll make a profit and end up with a better product to boot :D
 
All you need is the correct frequency of Tent Labs XO module. If it's a CD17 or CD17KI then you need a 16.9344MHz. If it's a CD17Mk2 then you need a 33.8688MHz. Chevin Audio are currently selling them for £29 on their website. all the rest of the bits are in the kit.
 
I tell you what, send the superclock to one of the resident guru's for them to do a comparison ;) (if there up for it, perhaps not as the world might not like the answer)
 
There is a minor omission in the notes; between pages 18 and 19 the BC547 transistor appears on the PCB but is not mentioned in the text.

nearly finished mine now - I HATE SMDs !! Dropped one of the little brown capacitors onto the kitchen floor - which is a pale speckled lino finish. Took about 5 mins to locate the cap !!.

Question: my Paganini CDP has the following Sony chipset:

CXA1782Q (RF Signal Processing Servo Amplifier for CD players)
This takes care of the LASER power and positioning; driving the diode, the coils and some motors; it also recover the Radio Frequency signal to be processed by the DSP.
CXD2508Q (CD Digital Signal Processor)
It reads and demodulates the RF signal, recovering various signals from the EFM modulation stream; it buffers data into a FIFO memory creating the SPINDLE motor signal; it talks with the system controller; gives as output the signals for the DAC.
CXP1042Q (System Controller for Compact Disc Players)​

should I use the 33R or 100R on the output?

Thanks ,

Jo
 
Mines now in my newest (but lightly modded) Alpha5, I'm going to give it a bit to bed in first before any real critical listening, one thing I did notice is that cds are read straight away now, much quicker than before.
Its a shame I don't have my highly modified A5+ to use as a comparison
 
Jo - thanks for the notes, good point.

Re: Paganini - whats the DAC, and where is the existing clock located?

I'll find some datasheets and look up the parts, but I'd usually expect to use the 33R output for the clock output unless the input capacitance spec of the fed part is a bit big (>>10pF).

It makes a difference barely noticed, and even then only by 'scope nerds with no idea of a good time.
 


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