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For want of a better name: the HackerNAP board

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Carl,

What about mounting the PCB, the layout does not show mounting holes?
What are your ideas on heatsinking the output transistors on the final beast?

Cheers,
Paul
 
Hi,

Bump mine up to 8 as well, thanks.

I am thinking of runing mine directly to the smothers for the output stage and ufing the reg board in my 135 clones to power the front end. I have some MJE4281s that would be nice as output transistors.

Pete
 
One suggestion Carl can you make space for C24 big enough to take a Wima MKP4?
Geoff.
 
I was going to go down the NCC200 route, why should I go this way rather than with Avondale? :)
 
Gaaah, I have to check with some friends.... When is the deadline on this...?

Dunno really. Shall we call the cut-off as Friday 19th?

What about mounting the PCB, the layout does not show mounting holes?
What are your ideas on heatsinking the output transistors on the final beast?

That's a good point. Normally the NAP/NCC boards are mounted on heatsinks by the output transistors, but that's because they're TO-3 and lend themselves to the task. For maximum bodgability I'll add stand-off holes.

One suggestion Carl can you make space for C24 big enough to take a Wima MKP4?
Geoff.

Consider it done. I juggled it to fit one of these: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIM...EpiMZZMvCt%2bwg%2braTuiEXhpIo3SenGA6NCfiGTh4=

Carl
Have you considered multiple output transistors :rolleyes: ?

Oh no! The circuitry would need to be modified and all sorts of stuff done to it. One of my goals, because I'm far from an electronics whizz, was to use existing circuits that are known good. For that reason the circuitry is pretty much NAP/NCC, with the output stage a continuance of that theme albeit with Acoustica mods that I've tried and tested already.

Even the front-end VBE section is a copy of PD's excellent FET-based VBE. Again, that's because I've tried it, tested it, and been listening to it in this configuration for a couple of months. Adding experimental features was not a design goal. Having said that....

I was going to go down the NCC200 route, why should I go this way rather than with Avondale? :)

You shouldn't. This is an untested design (all the constituent parts are tested, just not lumped together on one PCB) as opposed to the Avondale design, which is very well known and is pretty much guaranteed to "just work" out of the box. The Avondale will also drop into a Naim amp as a direct replacement - these boards wont because they require different transistor mounting, two power supplies, and a bazillion 0V ground returns.

Everyone that's expressed interest so far has been around PFM long enough to know that I'm just a regular old bodger and while my designs have pretty much worked in the past, there's no guarantee that they will now or in the future. They also enjoy the challenge of building something from scratch, something new and interesting.

If that's not you, buy the Avondale. If you fancy life on the bleeding edge, buy a couple of these. Hell, buy a couple anyway. It'll cost you less than $20 to have them delivered to your door and you'll always have the option of building them later.

Remember: these boards are by bodgers for bodgers. They come with no warranty. No guarantees of back up service. LesW won't be there to pick up the phone and diagnose problems with these boards. If they blow up, destroy your speakers, burn down your house, or frighten your cat then you're on your own! Caveat emptor.
 
Carl,
Everything I've had from you so far has been absolutely top notch stuff, so even if it is a bit of a shot in the dark I'd love to try these, so please put me down for four.
 
Hey Carl, I was down for 4 but I'm not in the page 1 list although I am in the rectifier list!
 
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