advertisement


Fancy Protractors?

Darren L

Egalitarian
Cartridge alignment protractors like the Smartractor or Dr Feickert does anyone own one or have experience or them ?
 
Last edited:
I use a Feickart, an absolute must if you are changing arms to get the pivot to spindle distance spot on. If it's only to set up a cart then it's a bit overkill unless you're changing carts regularly.
 
I have the Smartractor. I have found it very straightforward to use and that it gives great results, the little magnifying device for stylus/cantilever alignment is especially useful. The magnifyer is maybe the only advantage of the Smartractor over the Feickart. Both are relatively pricey but come up s/hand on occasion, if you set up cartridges regularly or need to do fresh install on an arm then they can be very handy.
 
The problem with Dr F, and presumably those like it, is that if the pivot isn’t marked on your tonearm you have the hassle of locating it yourself. Still worth it, for me, to mitigate neurotic fear that I’m ruining cart and records, failing to make the most of the set up etc.
 
Fancy protractors are just other profit-making objects. They have nothing more than paper giveaway ones from Rega for instance.
The best one I’ve used is the one that’s engraved the other side of my Thorens mat. Spot-on!
 
I’m a firm believer of a) putting the arm in the right place (pivot to spindle distance), and b) using the protractor that came with the arm. There are way too many people trying to force non-Baerwald arms into a Baerwald alignment IMHO!
 
My current arm came not only without a protractor but without any guidance as to the geometry. Dr F allowed me to figure out that it was Stevenson. Also allowed me to determine the spindle to pivot distance, which was not quite what the manufacturer of the deck and arm board specified. Two more things to get neurotic about!
 
I’m a firm believer of a) putting the arm in the right place (pivot to spindle distance), and b) using the protractor that came with the arm. There are way too many people trying to force non-Baerwald arms into a Baerwald alignment IMHO!

How could a tonearm be non-Baerwald (or Baerwald or /non-/Stevenson etc. for that matter), unless it's linear tracking, of course?
 
Given that spindle-pivot distances are quoted to 0.5mm (sometimes less), drilling or adjusting to get that right, is not at all easy without some kind of jig, and a good degree of care, the same applies to measuring the distance pivot-stylus.

I've not used anything but a piece of card as supplied by the arm manufacturer but can't immediately see how anything more complicated can make set-up less complicated/in need of time and care.
 
How could a tonearm be non-Baerwald (or Baerwald or /non-/Stevenson etc. for that matter), unless it's linear tracking, of course?

The maths used in producing the compromise alignment/position of cart'/headshell to tonearm wand. Have a look at Wikipedia.
 
How could a tonearm be non-Baerwald (or Baerwald or /non-/Stevenson etc. for that matter), unless it's linear tracking, of course?

Headshell offset. To force a Baerwald alignment in a Stevenson geometry arm involves twisting the cart in the shell. Sure, it can be done, and will work fine, but I prefer just setting stuff as the designer intended rather than thinking my grasp of tonearm math is superior (which is almost certainly isn’t!). I’m actually far more concerned with mass/compliance and tip-profile, they are what really define clean tracking/tracing (assuming a decent turntable & arm) IME.
 
Fancy protractors are just other profit-making objects. They have nothing more than paper giveaway ones from Rega for instance.
The best one I’ve used is the one that’s engraved the other side of my Thorens mat. Spot-on!

Yeah, I always print these out, don't see any benefit from having it any other way? Plus you can punch the paper through the spindle.
 
Headshell offset. To force a Baerwald alignment in a Stevenson geometry arm involves twisting the cart in the shell. Sure, it can be done, and will work fine, but I prefer just setting stuff as the designer intended rather than thinking my grasp of tonearm math is superior (which is almost certainly isn’t!). I’m actually far more concerned with mass/compliance and tip-profile, they are what really define clean tracking/tracing (assuming a decent turntable & arm) IME.

Fair enough. I can especially agree with emphasized part.
 
I use a free with a purchase J7 (Audio Origami) alignment gauge/protractor by SEB on my Hydraulic Reference & Hadcock 242 silver+ & Musicmaster cartridge. On the protractor is a line that is pointed at the pivot point, I use a paper ball to lock the platter, I remove the arm and cartridge align a small Black and Decker laser along the protractor printed line and hitting the pivot point tip, I then replace the arm and cartridge and set stylus on the mark on the protractor check alignment. Though I have an XTC counterweight which locks in place I still check downforce with my stylus gauge, I usually remember to remove the paper ball...

http://www.audioorigami.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/audioorigami-instructions.pdf
 
Have a look at Best Tractor from Mint LP. Custom made for your arm and deck.
You still need to set up your spindle to pivot distance prior to using the Best Tractor.
It works well for me.
 
I find Dr F makes setup MUCH faster than the typical 2 position giveaways. Setting the overhang with Dr F gets me spot on straight away.
 


advertisement


Back
Top