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Excessive dust collecting on new vinyl

Elephantears

Trunkated Aesthete
I'm puzzled by a new piece of vinyl that sounds good but gathers dust at an extraordinary rate - de-fluffing required sometimes twice per side. I've had it in a Nagaoka since I got it and played it about 5 times. Its a nice Japanese pressing of Nick Ayoub's 'The Montreal Scene' - a jazz quintet recording from 1964 that I would highly recommend if it wasn't for this issue.

I don't know if this is because ;

a) it is highly charged with static and the result is that the stylus is picking up all the dust in the atmosphere

OR

b) there is loads of crap in the grooves

I've taken back warped or badly mottled records, but I'm not used to this kind of problem. Lacking a VPI, would a wash under the tap/rinse with distilled water be the best policy?
 
Probably static; can you still get Zerostats?

If your deck has a felt mat, a charged record will do a good job of cleaning it for you!
 
Zerostats are available, but they are going on £50 or $100 with delivery. Seems a bit overpriced, and I could put that to a record cleaner (or even get a cheapo Knosti). There's been a lot of threads about Okki Nokki's recently, but for me its just a bit too expensive.

The Moth RCM/2 is available in kit form at an ok price, so that's another possibility.
 
Quick dip in a Knosti will sort it. Don't forget to rinse off with distilled water. If you do, the knosti is actually a very effective cleaner. If you don't you end up with a stylusfull of crud.

Cheers,

Nic.
 
Yes that seems like the most cost effective solution - I've read about the distilled water thing before. I think I'll get a Knosti, then get a few records cleaned professionally, and see what I think about the difference. Been meaning to visit that guy in Skipton who has a Keith Monks and charges a pound per record. The London alternatives are outrageous.
 
My Zerostat is around 30 years old so you get what you pay for.

Cheers,

DV

PS maybe its not just the vinyl but the sleeve that its stored in that causes the problem. Worth checking out as I am against chemical cleaners.
 
My Zerostat is around 30 years old so you get what you pay for.

I can second that. All you need to do is sharpen the pin every now and then. Had mine for 25 years at least. It also helps to ensure correct tracking force by neutralising static on the surface of the lid. I have seen an Ittok levitate off the record and swing sideways when the lid was put down. Zerostat both sides of the lid, and you can be reassured that the tracking force you're hearing is something like the one you set on the arm.
 
I can second that. All you need to do is sharpen the pin every now and then. Had mine for 25 years at least. It also helps to ensure correct tracking force by neutralising static on the surface of the lid. I have seen an Ittok levitate off the record and swing sideways when the lid was put down. Zerostat both sides of the lid, and you can be reassured that the tracking force you're hearing is something like the one you set on the arm.

Ok I'm somewhat persuaded. It seems from reading the Okki Nokki thread that some people feel its necessary to use a Zerostat after a proper cleaning too. Oh vinyl, why do you have to be so demanding?
 
I'll have a small bottle of whatever you where on then.

I see you are skeptical. Just rub your sleeve on the top of a typical record player lid while playing a record. Don't worry - nothing will happen to your expensive cartridge as the arm bumps against the lid, earths it, and slams back down into the record ;-)
 
I have two Zerostat pistols, both purchased new decades ago. I try never to use them, because I have found that they often create static rather than remove it, no matter how slowly you press/release the trigger. And no matter what distance between the muzzle and the target.

From what you say it is only one record that has this problem. I have once or twice had the same problem with a new record. I think that sometimes a record has become greatly charged up somewhere along the line- before it is played.

My suggestion is that you DO NOT use a Zerostat on it. I agree with the ‘wet clean’ suggestions, but this should be done only with some sort of controlled vacuum clean.

Since you are interested in saving money I can thoroughly recommend the KAB EV-1 (see Kabusa website). This is an ingenious bomb proof plastic box etc. that connects up to your home vacuum cleaner and does an excellent job, saving you the cost of a motor inside a commercial record cleaning machine.

Kabusa are in the U.S. so you will have to import one. they are a very reliable outfit and you will, I am certain, be very pleased if you purchase one.
I add that I have no connexion with the firm other than as a satisfied customer.
 
What Nic Robinson said.

Knosti then a distilled rinse. The rinse is vital if your records are a bit mucky. Either way, I've never had a static problem afterwards. I can't afford the vacuum option, and even if I could I'm not sure I'd want to spend 10 times the cost trying to see if the result is 10 times better. I'd be interested in the comparative results though.
 
I have two Zerostat pistols, both purchased new decades ago. I try never to use them, because I have found that they often create static rather than remove it, no matter how slowly you press/release the trigger. And no matter what distance between the muzzle and the target.

When you squeeze the trigger it expels positive ions, and when you release, it sprays electrons. Or vice versa. But if the surface of your record is positively charged, it will repel the ions, and attract the electrons, thus neutralising the static. And vice versa. If you manage to increase an electrostatic charge on the surface of a record by spraying ions then you are definitely holding the gun too close (if it's possible). Breathing into the gap while spraying can help, both by providing dipolar water molecules/droplets and through convection increasing the rate at which static charges are neutralised. I find a few squeezes at the right distance, i.e. ~5 inches, can cause some dust to simply drop off an upright record. More tenacious material requires a gentle blow. The stylus can do the rest.
 
Thanks for the suggestions here. The KAB sounds interesting, since I like the idea of utilizing my already existing Miele and it is a realistic price.

I would just buy an Okki Nokki and be done with it, but I'm about to buy an Ittok, so the cost mounts up. I've being gradually trying to shift back to vinyl over the last year or so, but I don't fell comfortable blowing a lot of money in one go, especially since I'm aggravated by the idea that I could spend that £375 on new vinyl.

What I do find surprising is the lack of consensus about record cleaning. I would have though that after all these years we'd know if wet cleaning was good or bad for records, and if anti-static guns really worked.
 
I don't know if this is because ;

a) it is highly charged with static and the result is that the stylus is picking up all the dust in the atmosphere

You can't tell whether an LP surface is charged with static? Easy - just hold it close to the hairs on your forearm and see if they stand up as a result (I'm assuming you're male, EE :) ).

And as for a Qu in your later post ("I would have though that after all these years we'd know if wet cleaning was good or bad for records") ... yes, we do know that wet cleaning is good. Keith Monks proved that decades ago - it's only fundamentalist Linnies who won't do anything which Linn says is a no-no who don't think RCMs are a good thing. :p

And anti-static guns - specifically, the Zerostat - do work but if you treat your records properly with an RCM (and don't have nylon carpet and don't live in a very dry atmosphere), you shouldn't need to use one.

Finally, if you want good sound from vinyl, you need a certain number of "ancillaries" - an RCM, an arc-based cart setup protractor, a ZeroDust and a digital scale, at the minimum. :D

Regards,

Andy
 
And anti-static guns - specifically, the Zerostat - do work but if you treat your records properly with an RCM (and don't have nylon carpet and don't live in a very dry atmosphere), you shouldn't need to use one.

Well my experience tells that vacuuming process do effect vinyl's static charge. Especially if you need to use more than 2 vacuuming cycles. It could be wrong procedure that I'm following though. RCM is quite new to me.

Rolandas
 
Well my experience tells that vacuuming process do effect vinyl's static charge. Especially if you need to use more than 2 vacuuming cycles. It could be wrong procedure that I'm following though. RCM is quite new to me.

Rolandas

The wet cleaning process reduces an LP's static charge. Vacuuming it dry (and, as a result, having the surface of the LP pass across some felt pads) increases static, if you do it for too many revolutions.

IMO, you shouldn't need more than 2 clean-then-vacuum cycles, even for a used LP. :)

Regards,

Andy
 
IMO, you shouldn't need more than 2 clean-then-vacuum cycles, even for a used LP. :)

Yeah, it should be enough but it was discussed earlier that after few LP sides felt pads are getting wet and leave wet traces after tube lifts off. Then you need extra revolutions. Otherwise you have wet vinyl.
 
Yeah, it should be enough but it was discussed earlier that after few LP sides felt pads are getting wet and leave wet traces after tube lifts off. Then you need extra revolutions. Otherwise you have wet vinyl.

Ah, I don't have a "tube". My Nitty Gritty has a slot, lined with felt pads. 3 revolutions is enough to take the moisture away (this is looking through clear-but-coloured vinyl) so I do 3 1/2, just to make sure. :)

Regards,

Andy
 


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