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Early Creek CAS 4040 series 1 (DIN inputs): advice needed

Rana

Rana

pfm Member
I've always wanted to hear this Creek since fellow Nait 2 fan and pfm member Alco once mentioned to me that he rated them as a high vfm amp with some of that Naim magic. So finally I managed to bag one on Ebay for £60 for a cheap but classic setup paired with Wharfedale Diamonds for my desk. I unpacked it last night and it was in nice external condition for a 40'ish year old amp. Unfortunately after I connected it up, the right hand channel was not outputting any sound. After no success changing cables, inputs and speakers, I then measured this channel at with a circa 3V continuous output with music playing, whilst the left hand channel was fine outputting variable voltage at the same time. The seller immediately refunded me which was very noble of him (he wrote that he had tried it at a friend's system as he didn't own any speakers). I can send it back to the seller but would really try and get it fixed. I have no repair skills due to poor hand-eye coordination and slightly shaky hands - soldering has always been problematic for me. So question is - I have now been reading scare stories that there were multiple variants of the early 4040 models with questionable initial engineering design, so is it worth getting it fixed?
 
If the unit has never been serviced, changing all the electrolytic capacitors is a first step and a must.
Rather easy to perform on this model and the replacement parts are very affordable so it’s not a major expense and well worth it on such a musical amplifier.
Just make sure the transformer is in good working condition before moving forward with the repair.
Also verify each and every fuses if there are any.
 
Definitely worth having repaired. I'm not sure where you are getting your scare stories from, these are nice, simple designs that punch well above their weight. I've heard them all, starting with the original DIN line inputs with inline RCA sockets on flying leads for phono input, CAS4040 through to 4040s3. I've a lovely condition s2 here, and have been longing for the matching T40 tuner for years.

If you reply with some more detail describing yours (S/N, any dates printed on, etc), I may have the exact schematic here for a competent tech to reference.
318creekvintage.ins.jpg
 
Hi @Craig B that's mighty kind of you. Serial number is 011659. Below are some images. Looks the same as yours - so it might be Series 2 then?

RDlA8u3.jpg


Oa9Sr0m.jpg
 
Looks like an original one. Ive got the matching CAS 3040 tuner, you could pick them up in ebay for £20 a while back, maybe theyve gone up now.
Ive had a 4140 S2 (bit more power only volume control) and also a 4040 S2. the S2's have the green Creek logos rather than the CAS logo.
Nothing between 4040 or 4140, just if you need extra power.

All I will say is if I was starting again I would be very happy with A creek amp 4040 or 4140.use its own phono stage which is high quality and add a Rega planar and a pair of MS10i speakers. I was happy with this set up for several years.
Yes it does have some of the Naim type sound, more pep than snap of Naim. I compared a rega Brio 3 which had loads of good reviews to the Creek 4040 and could find little between them.
 
Rana said:
Hi @Craig B that's mighty kind of you. Serial number is 011659. Below are some images. Looks the same as yours - so it might be Series 2 then?

RDlA8u3.jpg


Oa9Sr0m.jpg
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No worries, Rana.

Does the fuse that is located between the bridge rectifier (small black box near to the mains transformer) and the large Rubycon capacitor that is lying on its side look to be gone open circuit to you?

I can't quite see all of the resisitors that are adjacent to the output transistors (just above the heatsink there) but nothing appears to be burnt, cracked, or MIA there.

Craig
 
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Verify continuity of the fuses (little glass cylinders) to see if any of these are blown.
Then a recap is essential as it really looks like these are the original ones.
This amp is really one of the best value for money in the hi-fi world so it deserves a bit of love.
 
All looks good to the naked eye - and visually checked all the fuses, and they are intact. Yes they are the original caps, but that's the limit of my skill! Thanks to your collective encouragement I have decided to keep (and seller does want it back) so will get the little beauty repaired once lockdown is over.
 
Rana said:
All looks good to the naked eye - and visually checked all the fuses, and they are intact. Yes they are the original caps, but that's the limit of my skill! Thanks to your collective encouragement I have decided to keep (and seller does want it back) so will get the little beauty repaired once lockdown is over.
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Are you sure, Rana? This is position FS1, a T2A slow-blow fuse on the power supply rail to the right channel. It may be a trick of the light, but it sure looks blown to me.

Creek-4040s1-FS1-T2-A.png
 
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I hope you managed to get it sorted Rana. I bought one of the original ones when they came out and in terms of value for money it was unbeatable. During the 90’s when it had been ‘retired’ it was pressed into service running a garden system for an evening. It was placed safely in a gazebo and was happily driving a pair of Celef monitors for many hours till one channel went down. I whipped the top off and discovered one of the protection fuses had blown, found a replacement and on went the music for another few hours and as far as I know it is still working today.

These small form UK amps are great and well worth keeping. There were quite a few back in the 80’s with the classic look/approach being adopted by Creek and A&R whilst the more hair shirt approach being adopted by Naim, Nytech, Onix amongst others. Of all the ones I heard, I was most impressed with the A&R but I couldn’t afford it at the time so bought the Creek and I didn't feel short changed. I was also impressed with original Onix but again cost was a factor. The Creek cost me £99, all the others were more expensive by a significant margin. I don’t have my original Creek anymore but do have the matching tuner, well worth hunting down if you can find one Rana as it complements the amp beautifully and together they take up less space than most receivers.
 
Wow, my eyesight must be failing me - going to the attic now and will take a close look.
 
misterc6 said:
The fuse closest to the volume control looks suspect as well
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That will be FS2, a T2A slow-blow fuse on the power supply rail to the left channel. Rana reported getting no sound out of the right channel so FS2 must be ok. Does look a bit 'cloudy' in there though.
 
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"Craig B, post: 4251585, member: 36"]Are you sure, Rana? This is position FS1, a T 2A fast blow fuse on the power supply rail to the right channel. It may be a trick of the light, but it sure looks blown to me."

@Craig B yes you are absolutely correct. I checked all the others with a multimeter and they are okay, but thanks @misterc6 as well. Will order some up and post back. Also need to book an eyetest when things ease off as my varifocal prescription will probably need changing.
 
Used to live a couple of hundred yards around the corner from AT Laboratories in Ilford when I started Uni....that place helped get me hooked on this darn hi-fi hobby. Been a customer of quite a few of those dealers - crikey.
 
Lovely little amps. Sold my original to a friend who is still using it to this day. I replaced it with an S2 which I use to this day in my second system.
 
retrospective said:
Send it back and buy one that works they're pretty common,it'll cost more than it's worth to get a tech to fix it..
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Thats probably true but it sounds like with a bit of help from fellow fishes the OP may be able to get this amp sorted themselves. Don't underestimate the extra level of pride owning a bit of kit you've bought back to life yourself brings, especially if your a novice.
TS
 
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