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Doorbell transformer (robots in disguise)

garyi

garyi

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I have one of these new fangled ring door bells installed this week, one step closer to being taken over by the IOT.

I got it from a carbooty so the battery is a bit crap so I got a plug in power supply for it which works, however the power supply is very warm to the touch which concerns me.

I was instead going to buy this:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-8-24v-8-va-bell-transformer-module/8707p

and inclose it in this:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-ese2-ip40-2-module-unpopulated-din-enclosure/32311


But basically was going to put it on a plug, as its no where near the consumer unit, I cannot find anywhere if I can or cannot do this, any thoughts?
 
The ring doorbell is designed to be hooked up to a doorbell transformer, my concern is with powering the transformer, they all seem designed to sit in 'rails' my plan was simply to hook up the 240v end to a plug with a 3a fuse in it. I dont know why this would be an issue, equally I dont think its designed for this.

All the off the shelf wall wort style plugs for ring seem to be seriously cheap chinese crap.
 
Incidentally I am not really expecting anyone to endorse it, but from my perspective it looks like all I would be doing using a plug is adding in a fuse which I dont see a problem with.
 
My Ring door bell internet thingy is 24V. As I bought it new, it came with the right transformer - 24V IIRC and instructions for doing the change. Most doorbells are 12V I think. The screwfix thingy you have linked looks good (and my Ring doorbell transformer looks just like that - but single voltage only)

As it happens I did not have an existing door bell so the instructions were useless - but it was easy to figure out. The hardest bit for me was choosing where to put the transformer and getting mains power to it. As delivered it was designed to clip into a spare fuse way in the distribution panel - but for various reasons that was unsuitable for me. It has ended up mounted on a spare bit of Din rail mounted atop the kitchen cupboards. As it is miles up (11 foot ceilings!) I have just mounted it direct and used some chocolate blocks screwed down for connections and insulation tape and a plastic box over it all.
 
Hi jensen, this sounds fine, I have ordered a 24v version. Although its apparently ok from 18v.

I totally dont understand VA vs A on the wall wort, I guess I will find out.
 
As I understand it VA is volts X amps = watts = power. I think this will represent the power drawn from mains. Most wall warts these days are switch mode and can operate over a wide range of supply voltages.

A represents the current delivered.
 
garyi said:
Hi jensen, this sounds fine, I have ordered a 24v version. Although its apparently ok from 18v.

I totally dont understand VA vs A on the wall wort, I guess I will find out.
Click to expand...
OK. Voltage is electrical pressure. The 240V on your mains is a constant. It's like having a water reservoir up on top of a hill, for every 10m height the water gets 1 bar, 15 psi, of pressure. This doesn't change when you turn the tap on. Current in an electric circuit, measured in Amps (A) , is the rate of flow, just as you can measure the rate of flow of water in a pipe. Flow of electrons, flow of water. It's the same. Now imagine that you are using the water from your tap to drive a water wheel. The wider you open the tap the faster the water current flows and the faster the wheel goes. The faster the wheel goes the more work it can do in any given time. This is power. Now the clever bit. Just as the higher the water pressure the bigger the water current for any given tap opening, and the more work the water wheel can do, the greater the voltage the greater the electrical current (amps) for any given resistance.

Power from a water wheel equals water pressure times water current.
Power from an electric circuit equals electrical pressure (V) times current (A). So power equals V times A. That's what VA means. More VA, more power. 100 VA is twice the power of 50 VA.

electricity in a wire is just like water in a pipe. It's a brilliant analogy that just doesn't break down.
 
I run my ring2 doorbell using two proper ring rechargeable batteries. Whilst one is the device, the other gets charged and put in the cupboard. The battery lasts about 6 weeks, and the app tells you when it needs changing. All very reliable and the spare battery wasnt expensive

No electricity faff simple safe, and no dodgy electricery installation

there are two models "ring" and "ring2". They have different power requirements. I am tempted to get the solar charger for my ring2
 
THats great, I got my ring doorbell for £10. Its not the V2 and does not have a replaceable battery

Steve thanks for the explanation, I am none the wiser. On the wall wort it says .5a On the transformer it says 8VA, both are 24V.

Which can deliver more?

My assumption is the little wall wort is running at the limit hence the heat? (Its not a very comfy warm, its kind of like I should probably unplug this cheap chinese crap warm)
 
I thought doorbell transformers were we're usually wired into the ceiling light 1amp circuit?

Can these not just do the same to avoid the plugs, batteries and other faffs I don't want with a doorbell?
 
I assume so Jimmy, I am coming to the conclusion I just need to deliver electric into its bum, I am going to do this with a wire with a plug on. Worse case is I fry a ring doorbell I paid a tenner for.
 
24V at 0.5A is 24 x 0.5 VA. That's 12VA. The transformer can deliver 8 VA. That's 0.33 A (24V x 0.33A = 8)

that's going to run at about blood heat in a plastic case. No drama.
 
garyi said:
I assume so Jimmy, I am coming to the conclusion I just need to deliver electric into its bum, I am going to do this with a wire with a plug on. Worse case is I fry a ring doorbell I paid a tenner for.
Click to expand...
Most sensible thing you've said tonigh t. ☺
 
For the last ten years (at least) I have run our door bell off an old pc power supply/charger, connected to a dedicated fused spur, which just happens to supply approximately the right voltage, without any problems. I'm pleased to say I can't see who's ringing the bell so feel no guilt whatsoever when I switch it off and/or ignore it.
 
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