Does anyone own a Michell Mycro

[Pulse Studio]

Please could anyone advise me how to tune the subchassis balance on the Michell Mycro?? I have tried for hours to get the thing to bounce without appearing drunk, but it just eludes me every time.
I have owned a beautiful Mycro for a few years now that I won on e-bay, it is fitted with a Rega RB300 and Grado Prestige Gold, it is in mint condition and it sounds great but lacks the image stability and timing/pace of my LP12/Ekos set-up, yes I know it's in a different league but I am sure I can improve its performance if only I could get the subchassis to be pistonic like my Linn, the Mycro is all over the place, it resembles a tug, mid Atlantic in a force 9 gale, rather than a finely tuned microgroove scanner, I am sure there must be a way to achieve a better behaved subchassis !!! can anyone help please ???
Paul

 

[gregor]

try the vinyl engine,they have a michell section,i'm sure you'll find the answer there.

 

[Pulse Studio]

Cheers Gregor, I would have thought that there would be a least a couple of members with this TT on PFM, it appears not, thanx for the heads up on Vinyl Engine.
Paul

 

[jl-c]

On the Orbe or Gyro you adjust the springs so the platter is level and the cast base sits a few mm above the pespex (felt washer +3 mm roughly)Not too high though as you will have all sorts of problems.Then rotate the springs only, not the posts to position the base laterally in relation to the motor. If your motor is free standing, forget the last bit, just move the motor!

 

[Pulse Studio]

Hi jI-c
Thanx for the heads up on the Mycro, I will check out your advice tonight.

cheers
Paul

 

[Pulse Studio]

OK I have played around with the Mycro for a couple of hours and it is a little better but it is still not pistonic to the extent of my LP12, I think the main problem is with the arm lead and the way it is dressed out from the underside of the perspex plinth, if I make it too loose it pushes the platter forward to the point of hitting the top cover and if I pull it back to take up any slack it completely ruins the bounce, maybe I will never resolve it and just have to live with it ( thanx for your help, as I said it has improved a little.
Paul

 

[jl-c]

The Gyro has a clamp for the arm lead. You leave a slack loop from the arm connection and then clamp it to the perspex . This allows the movement without pulling on the arm lead. Along the same lines as the cables in a tonearm are slack over the pivot point. If there is no clamp then I suggest you leave a loop and then tie-wrap it to a leg perhaps ensuring the cable does not contact the surface the deck is stood on until after the tie-wrap.? You don't want to be able to pull the arm lead and affect the deck's suspension.
HTH