1. Things you need to know about the new ‘Conversations’ PM system:

    a) DO NOT REPLY TO THE NOTIFICATION EMAIL! I get them, not the intended recipient. I get a lot of them and I do not want them! It is just a notification, log into the site and reply from there.

    b) To delete old conversations use the ‘Leave conversation’ option. This is just delete by another name.
    Dismiss Notice

Does anyone own a Michell Mycro

Discussion in 'classic' started by Pulse Studio, Nov 6, 2007.

  1. Pulse Studio

    Pulse Studio TubeTech

    Please could anyone advise me how to tune the subchassis balance on the Michell Mycro?? I have tried for hours to get the thing to bounce without appearing drunk, but it just eludes me every time.
    I have owned a beautiful Mycro for a few years now that I won on e-bay, it is fitted with a Rega RB300 and Grado Prestige Gold, it is in mint condition and it sounds great but lacks the image stability and timing/pace of my LP12/Ekos set-up, yes I know it's in a different league but I am sure I can improve its performance if only I could get the subchassis to be pistonic like my Linn, the Mycro is all over the place, it resembles a tug, mid Atlantic in a force 9 gale, rather than a finely tuned microgroove scanner, I am sure there must be a way to achieve a better behaved subchassis !!! can anyone help please ???
    Paul
     
  2. gregor

    gregor pfm Member

    try the vinyl engine,they have a michell section,i'm sure you'll find the answer there.
     
  3. Pulse Studio

    Pulse Studio TubeTech

    Cheers Gregor, I would have thought that there would be a least a couple of members with this TT on PFM, it appears not, thanx for the heads up on Vinyl Engine.
    Paul
     
  4. jl-c

    jl-c pfm Member

    On the Orbe or Gyro you adjust the springs so the platter is level and the cast base sits a few mm above the pespex (felt washer +3 mm roughly)Not too high though as you will have all sorts of problems.Then rotate the springs only, not the posts to position the base laterally in relation to the motor. If your motor is free standing, forget the last bit, just move the motor!
     
  5. Pulse Studio

    Pulse Studio TubeTech

    Hi jI-c
    Thanx for the heads up on the Mycro, I will check out your advice tonight.

    cheers
    Paul
     
  6. Pulse Studio

    Pulse Studio TubeTech

    OK I have played around with the Mycro for a couple of hours and it is a little better but it is still not pistonic to the extent of my LP12, I think the main problem is with the arm lead and the way it is dressed out from the underside of the perspex plinth, if I make it too loose it pushes the platter forward to the point of hitting the top cover and if I pull it back to take up any slack it completely ruins the bounce, maybe I will never resolve it and just have to live with it :eek:( thanx for your help, as I said it has improved a little.
    Paul
     
  7. jl-c

    jl-c pfm Member

    The Gyro has a clamp for the arm lead. You leave a slack loop from the arm connection and then clamp it to the perspex . This allows the movement without pulling on the arm lead. Along the same lines as the cables in a tonearm are slack over the pivot point. If there is no clamp then I suggest you leave a loop and then tie-wrap it to a leg perhaps ensuring the cable does not contact the surface the deck is stood on until after the tie-wrap.? You don't want to be able to pull the arm lead and affect the deck's suspension.
    HTH
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice