MrPinkEyes
Come on Pooh
From my dealers manual which i had made a few years back. (Im not a dealer btw)
This manual is pre classic, has some helpful information in it. If i can enlighten anybody with this pls PM me im very happy to help. Ive just Discovered my iphone has scan to text function in its camera so as easy as pie, just cant post diagrams/pics
IBL
INSTRUCTIONS FOR IBL DRIVER REPLACEMENT
Bass Driver:
1 - Slightly loosen, in a sequential fashion, the four socket head bolts of the Bass driver
and then remove them.
2 - Using a flat bladed screwdriver and cardboard pad (Diagram below), carefully lever
up the unit.
3
- Place a piece of cardboard between the tags of the driver and the cone to catch any
drops of solder, then de-solder the black and red leads.
4
- Take the new Bass driver and run a continuous bead (approx. 3mm diameter) of the
blue liquid gasket centrally around the rear of the flange.
5 - Replace the protective cardboard as for de-soldering and re-solder the two leads,
ensuring correct polarity.
6
- Provided that the liquid gasket has been allowed to dry for about two minutes,
proceed with the insertion of the driver.
7 - Hold the driver by its corners and gently lower into the cabinet, ensuring no sealant
is spread to other parts of the cabinet. Replace socket screws and tighten them in the
diagonal order shown in diagram. N.B. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
The liquid gasket will spread out and may be visible around the edges of the driver.
This is normal and should not be cleaned away.
Tweeter
1 - Remove the four pozidrive screws holding the tweeter mounting plate. (Along with
washers and grommets on later IBLs.)
2 - Lift the assembly clear of the cabinet.
3 - Pick off the hot melt glue from the solder joints on the tweeter.
4 - De-solder the black and red leads.
5 - Fit the new rubber sleeves to the new tweeter mounting plate if appropriate.
7 - Solder the leads onto the new tweeter, ensuring correct polarity.
(Red lead to marked tag.)
8 - Apply a liberal amount of hot melt glue to the the soldered joints.
9 - Re-fit the mounting plate to the cabinet. (Along with washers and grommets on later
IBLs.) N.B. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS.
IBL (UPDATE)
IBL (UPDATE)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING UPDATE KIT TO IL SPEAKERS
Kit Contents:
12 x6mm (length chalked rubber sleeves
9 x No.4 Pozidrive screws
9 x M3 flat washers
9 x No. 10 Twinfast Pozidrive screws
18 x6mm external star washers
2 x Bass drive units
4x pieces reticulated grey foam
1x syringe filled with blue liquid gasket
Procedure:
1 - Lie speaker on its back on a soft surface.
2 - Remove the four bolts and washers securing the existing Bass driver. Retain for use
later.
3 - Lift bass driver clear of cabinet and de-solder connecting leads from terminals on
drive unit having first noted the way they were dressed.
N.B. THE BLUE SEALING MATERIAL ON THE DRIVER AND CABINET WLL
DAMAGE PAINTED SURFACES ON CONTACT. TAKE CARE NOT TO GET IT
ELSEWHERE ON THE SPEAKER CABINET.
4 - Note position of foam damping material inside the cabinet, then remove.
5 - Fit two pieces of new foam back into the cabinet in the same position, taking care to
push well into corners. (Ensure that the foam does not obstruct air flow
through the resistance unit.)
6 - Solder connecting leads onto the Bass driver terminals, taking care to phase
correctly.
7 - Using the syringe provided, apply a bead of liquid gasket (approx. 3mm diameter)
centrally around the rear of the driver flange.
Allow the liquid gasket to dry for about two minutes.
8 - Fit the bass driver back into the cabinet, taking care to dress the connecting wires
correctly.
9 - Re-fit bolts and washers and tighten up firmly.
N.B. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AS DAMAGE TO THE CHASSIS WILL OCCUR.
The liquid gasket will spread out and some of the excess will be visible around the
edge of the driver chassis - DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN AWAY EXCESS
10 - Stand the speaker on its head/top (upside down) on a soft surface. You may need
to prop it against something to make it stable.
11 - Remove the four screws securing the stand to the bottom of the cabinet.
12 - Place one star washer over each screw hole in the cabinet.
13 - Place the stand back on the cabinet over the washers and align the holes in the
stand, washer and cabinet. (The washer is now sandwiched between the stand
and the cabinet - see detail No.1 on diagram)
14 - Place one star washer over each of four No. 10 screws and insert into the cabinet
through the stand and the other star washers.
15 - Attach the stand back to the cabinet. Tighten firmly.
16 - Lie the speaker on its back again.
17 - Remove the four screws holding the tweeter mounting plate in place.
18 - Carefully lift the assembly off of the cabinet and rest to one side.
19 - Remove the two strips of foam from the rear face of the plate.
20 - Remove exactly half of the wool from the tweeter cavity.
21 - Clean away the burrs and any other material from around the screw holes in the
cabinet.
22 - Insert one of the chalked rubber sleeves in each of the holes in the corners of the
tweeter mounting plate. An equal amount of the sleeve should be protruding either
side of the plate. (See detail No.2 on diagram)
23 - Place one each of the M3 washers over four of the No.4 screws.
24 - Align the tweeter plate. The end of the sleeves line up with the screw holes in the
cabinet. Insert the No. 4 screws into each of the rubber sleeves.
(The washer stays between the screw head and the outer end of the sleeve.)
25 - Attach the tweeter plate by tightening the screws. The rubber sleeves will roll up as
you tighten, forming a doughnut shaped washer on either side of the plate.
(See detail No.3 on diagram)
N.B. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS - They should be done up just
firmly enough to form the sleeve correctly and hold the plate securely onto the
cabinet. Over tightening will distort and damage the tweeter plate, and may strip the
threads in the cabinet, requiring the speaker to be returned to the us for repair.
26 - Set-up the speaker in the listening room as per the instructions in the owners
manual. Re-fit the foam grille.
This manual is pre classic, has some helpful information in it. If i can enlighten anybody with this pls PM me im very happy to help. Ive just Discovered my iphone has scan to text function in its camera so as easy as pie, just cant post diagrams/pics
IBL
INSTRUCTIONS FOR IBL DRIVER REPLACEMENT
Bass Driver:
1 - Slightly loosen, in a sequential fashion, the four socket head bolts of the Bass driver
and then remove them.
2 - Using a flat bladed screwdriver and cardboard pad (Diagram below), carefully lever
up the unit.
3
- Place a piece of cardboard between the tags of the driver and the cone to catch any
drops of solder, then de-solder the black and red leads.
4
- Take the new Bass driver and run a continuous bead (approx. 3mm diameter) of the
blue liquid gasket centrally around the rear of the flange.
5 - Replace the protective cardboard as for de-soldering and re-solder the two leads,
ensuring correct polarity.
6
- Provided that the liquid gasket has been allowed to dry for about two minutes,
proceed with the insertion of the driver.
7 - Hold the driver by its corners and gently lower into the cabinet, ensuring no sealant
is spread to other parts of the cabinet. Replace socket screws and tighten them in the
diagonal order shown in diagram. N.B. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
The liquid gasket will spread out and may be visible around the edges of the driver.
This is normal and should not be cleaned away.
Tweeter
1 - Remove the four pozidrive screws holding the tweeter mounting plate. (Along with
washers and grommets on later IBLs.)
2 - Lift the assembly clear of the cabinet.
3 - Pick off the hot melt glue from the solder joints on the tweeter.
4 - De-solder the black and red leads.
5 - Fit the new rubber sleeves to the new tweeter mounting plate if appropriate.
7 - Solder the leads onto the new tweeter, ensuring correct polarity.
(Red lead to marked tag.)
8 - Apply a liberal amount of hot melt glue to the the soldered joints.
9 - Re-fit the mounting plate to the cabinet. (Along with washers and grommets on later
IBLs.) N.B. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS.
IBL (UPDATE)
IBL (UPDATE)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING UPDATE KIT TO IL SPEAKERS
Kit Contents:
12 x6mm (length chalked rubber sleeves
9 x No.4 Pozidrive screws
9 x M3 flat washers
9 x No. 10 Twinfast Pozidrive screws
18 x6mm external star washers
2 x Bass drive units
4x pieces reticulated grey foam
1x syringe filled with blue liquid gasket
Procedure:
1 - Lie speaker on its back on a soft surface.
2 - Remove the four bolts and washers securing the existing Bass driver. Retain for use
later.
3 - Lift bass driver clear of cabinet and de-solder connecting leads from terminals on
drive unit having first noted the way they were dressed.
N.B. THE BLUE SEALING MATERIAL ON THE DRIVER AND CABINET WLL
DAMAGE PAINTED SURFACES ON CONTACT. TAKE CARE NOT TO GET IT
ELSEWHERE ON THE SPEAKER CABINET.
4 - Note position of foam damping material inside the cabinet, then remove.
5 - Fit two pieces of new foam back into the cabinet in the same position, taking care to
push well into corners. (Ensure that the foam does not obstruct air flow
through the resistance unit.)
6 - Solder connecting leads onto the Bass driver terminals, taking care to phase
correctly.
7 - Using the syringe provided, apply a bead of liquid gasket (approx. 3mm diameter)
centrally around the rear of the driver flange.
Allow the liquid gasket to dry for about two minutes.
8 - Fit the bass driver back into the cabinet, taking care to dress the connecting wires
correctly.
9 - Re-fit bolts and washers and tighten up firmly.
N.B. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AS DAMAGE TO THE CHASSIS WILL OCCUR.
The liquid gasket will spread out and some of the excess will be visible around the
edge of the driver chassis - DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN AWAY EXCESS
10 - Stand the speaker on its head/top (upside down) on a soft surface. You may need
to prop it against something to make it stable.
11 - Remove the four screws securing the stand to the bottom of the cabinet.
12 - Place one star washer over each screw hole in the cabinet.
13 - Place the stand back on the cabinet over the washers and align the holes in the
stand, washer and cabinet. (The washer is now sandwiched between the stand
and the cabinet - see detail No.1 on diagram)
14 - Place one star washer over each of four No. 10 screws and insert into the cabinet
through the stand and the other star washers.
15 - Attach the stand back to the cabinet. Tighten firmly.
16 - Lie the speaker on its back again.
17 - Remove the four screws holding the tweeter mounting plate in place.
18 - Carefully lift the assembly off of the cabinet and rest to one side.
19 - Remove the two strips of foam from the rear face of the plate.
20 - Remove exactly half of the wool from the tweeter cavity.
21 - Clean away the burrs and any other material from around the screw holes in the
cabinet.
22 - Insert one of the chalked rubber sleeves in each of the holes in the corners of the
tweeter mounting plate. An equal amount of the sleeve should be protruding either
side of the plate. (See detail No.2 on diagram)
23 - Place one each of the M3 washers over four of the No.4 screws.
24 - Align the tweeter plate. The end of the sleeves line up with the screw holes in the
cabinet. Insert the No. 4 screws into each of the rubber sleeves.
(The washer stays between the screw head and the outer end of the sleeve.)
25 - Attach the tweeter plate by tightening the screws. The rubber sleeves will roll up as
you tighten, forming a doughnut shaped washer on either side of the plate.
(See detail No.3 on diagram)
N.B. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS - They should be done up just
firmly enough to form the sleeve correctly and hold the plate securely onto the
cabinet. Over tightening will distort and damage the tweeter plate, and may strip the
threads in the cabinet, requiring the speaker to be returned to the us for repair.
26 - Set-up the speaker in the listening room as per the instructions in the owners
manual. Re-fit the foam grille.