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de-capping (prior to re-capping)?

Discussion in 'd.i.y.' started by bugbear, Sep 19, 2022 at 8:55 AM.

  1. Paul R

    Paul R pfm Member

  2. davidsrsb

    davidsrsb pfm Member

    Take photos before you start, not all PCBs have clear polarity markings

    Use a powerful soldering iron. Low powered irons with fine tip take too long and you are more likely to lift tracks
  3. Loz828

    Loz828 pfm Member

    Jeez, some of the suggestions in this thread have been a bit mad. If you don't have access to a proper desoldering station (and lot's of people don't), buy some desoldering braid, or a manual solder sucker. Both options are cheap and while not as good as a proper heated vacuum desoldering iron they will do the trick, remember it is easier to desolder a joint with more solder on it rather than less, so if you have to add more solder to a cap leg/land prior to or during desoldering then do so.
  4. Loz828

    Loz828 pfm Member

    Yup that style are a very good economical option, easier to use than a separate iron and manual solder sucker. I always add a bit of solder first while lifting the component leg straight with an iron and let it cool, then apply the desoldering pump over the now upright leg until the solder melts and jiggle laterally or in a circular motion for a second to make sure the leg is moving then hit the pump release - works 99% of the time, but if it doesn't don't be afraid to start all over again. As with any soldering work, temperature, technique and correct "time on joint" are key.
  5. mansr

    mansr Objectionist

    You wouldn't be saying that if you'd ever recapped an M-DAC.
  6. 337alant

    337alant Negatively Biased

    The problem with snap in caps is they do not desolder well as there is always some contact with the double sided boards
    In this case I add fresh solder and flux to both connections and use 2 soldering irons whilst getting a helper to wiggle them out

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