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Creek CAS 4040

Hi,

I know this discussion is 2 years old now, but I thought I'd give it a try: I have some questions regarding servicing these classic Creek amps. I have a 4240 (and may soon be adding a 4330 to my collection as well). I'd like to recap. and upgrade the speaker binding posts on the 4240.

It looks like Creek used a unique construction method for these amps: the circuit boards are attached to the casework via the heatsink, front controls, and rear plugs (as opposed to being mounted independently to the casework underside via stand-offs etc.). The board is in-effect floating off these solder joints, and relies on the attachment of those various parts.

I assume that replacing the capacitors will require access to the underside of the circuit board? (There isn't a removable panel on the underside.) Removing the board seems risky: I assume you would detach all of the front controls from the front panel and detach the heatsink from the bottom of the case, being careful with the transistor solder joints at the heatsink?

I have done some basic soldering on audio electronics, but only where there has been access to the boards from both sides without removing them from the case, or where the boards can be removed easily.

Am correct about needing access to the underside of the board? Is there something I'm missing about the construction? Any insight from some of the experienced folks here would be appreciated.
 
I've worked on several Creek 4140s2 amplifiers and the procedure you describe is what you have to do. You have to be careful how you handle the whole assembly when it's out of the case. It also helps to disconnect the connections from the transformer to the board. I do this by cutting the wires close to the edge of the board and fitting a choc block connector when I re-assemble. There's also an earthing connection beneath the board to the rear panel terminal which needs some care.

IMG_0696 by Malcolm Connah, on Flickr
 
Thank you misterc6, that's super helpful.

I assume that, with the 4240, after the board is removed, the stress on the solder joints from the weight of heatsink must be a concern. Maybe I'll temporarily support it with cardboard and making tape or something.

I was also considering removing/ bypassing the balance pot, as it doesn't have a center detent and it seems rather cheap compared to the other switches (it's a Special Edition with an Alps volume pot.) (Also, I don't really need balance control.) But, it looks like the board needs a support-point on that corner, and the balance pot functions as that.

It's too bad Creek opted for this construction method, it must have expedited construction? I remember being surprised to see that my Quad 306 had the transformer mounted directly on the circuit board.
 
The balance pot on the 4140s2 has a centre detent. You could simply replace yours with one with that feature.
 
Is it just me or these little Creek integrated are the all categories best value for money : they sound really good, they can be bought for little money, they are rather easy to repair with standard and affordable parts and they are musical like not many amps of its category ?
And looking at the transfo, it’s seems to be high quality........
And the interior looks like an AR Cambridge A60 so not bad either ! :)
 
I love mine. It sits in the dining room powering some Wharfedale Super Diamonds and it sounds great for such a low cost system.
 
Gervais Cote said:
Is it just me or these little Creek integrated are the all categories best value for money : they sound really good, they can be bought for little money, they are rather easy to repair with standard and affordable parts and they are musical like not many amps of its category ?
And looking at the transfo, it’s seems to be high quality........
And the interior looks like an AR Cambridge A60 so not bad either ! :)
Click to expand...

It looks amazingly similar to the A60, but slightly better laid out :)
 
The 4040 was the powerhouse of the Chris Brooks 'entry-level' system way back when. A friend of mine had one of those systems (LP12/Ittok/Basik/4040/Kans) and it sounded way better than you may have thought...it was really a beat-master..tons of snap, drive and ample kick.
 
I have a broken one sitting in my lockup which keeps blowing fuses, I must dig it out and take a look...
 
Konteebos said:
I have a broken one sitting in my lockup which keeps blowing fuses, I must dig it out and take a look...
Click to expand...

I had to repair one of these that was also blowing fuses and the defective part was transfo so I did not make it as it was too costly.
I was kind of surprised so I removed the transfo and brought it to a large repair shop and the diagnostic was the same.
 
Gervais Cote said:
I had to repair one of these that was also blowing fuses and the defective part was transfo so I did not make it as it was too costly.
I was kind of surprised so I removed the transfo and brought it to a large repair shop and the diagnostic was the same.
Click to expand...
That's unusual, I'll open mine up some time and see if I can debug it.
 
Yes, I can confirm that mine also had a faulty transformer - there must be a quality issue (well at least one that pops up after 20 years or so).
 
When I verified, the price of a replacement transfo was the same price as the whole amp so the project stopped right there.
 
The winding wire enamel must be dodgy. A strange failure, the old UL thermal fuses popping open is more common in old equipment
The transformer looks like it is a simple dual secondary.
 
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