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Courtiestown - Naim Amplifier (Avondale) Upgrade Project

Is the 300 better than the 220 apart from having more power? I have both and for me the differences are more obvious in the bass and midrange. I think that's because both amplifiers are essentially the same apart from the output stage and that's what gives the 300 better control over the bass and lower midrange. Besides that the tweeters just don't need all that power, they require delicacy and I feel the 220 might just score there.
 
Is the 300 better than the 220 apart from having more power? I have both and for me the differences are more obvious in the bass and midrange. I think that's because both amplifiers are essentially the same apart from the output stage and that's what gives the 300 better control over the bass and lower midrange. Besides that the tweeters just don't need all that power, they require delicacy and I feel the 220 might just score there.
Yes, the NCC300 does bass better than a Voyager NCC220 (and definately NCC200). However, I think it's because the harmonics are handled better. IOW, the NCC300 does everything better.
 
It was related to strategizing where to apply your best amps.
Ah I see, I was more concerned that the isobarics may not be in perfect "TUNE" with each other if driven separately with different amps ?.
Out of interest what would you choice be based on the amps that Richard has available to him ?.
Alan
 
Good Evening All,

Looks like we, the rig moving team, may get kicked off the rig tomorrow as there is no immediate prospect of a weather window to complete the move.

In the background I do try to keep things moving.......

The modushop case should be with me on Wednesday.

The capacitors for the MiniCap6's arrived at home today.

I have bought these 2off 500VA Canterbury transformers off Golfinho this evening as well:-

I50ET7r.jpg


SMjGCgM.jpg


I have been debating whether or not to buy these for a couple of weeks now but have decided to commit against a potential NCC300 Voyager project. These are a 230V primary so with our 243V I should see ((243/ 230) x 35) x 1.414 = 52.3V minus (Schottky) rectification diode losses of about 1V.

Ah I see, I was more concerned that the isobarics may not be in perfect "TUNE" with each other if driven separately with different amps ?.
Out of interest what would you choice be based on the amps that Richard has available to him ?.
Alan

Alan - I'll leave Mike to address these points but it I do want to find out what is happening by running a REW frequency sweep shortly.

I did start on this the other night and was thwarted as I couldn't get a signal out of the streamer - I have since found out I had to switch the analogue inputs on...........

Regards

Richard
 
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Ah I see, I was more concerned that the isobarics may not be in perfect "TUNE" with each other if driven separately with different amps ?.
Out of interest what would you choice be based on the amps that Richard has available to him ?
Richard's setup is a moving target. :D

Generally speaking I would suggest one uses the most responsive and capable amps on the tweeters, where the transients are sharp and rapidly changing.

The midrange gets the next best amp, given the transients aren't as fast, but you still want to respond as well as possible to the demands of the input signal.

As for bass, I think any Avondale amp is capable of driving the woofers adequately, unless volume/power requirements are so extreme that they just can't provide sufficient current without sagging voltage. For these amps, it think it's more important that the CAP6 feeding the output stage have lots of pure capacitance, rather than CLCLC. Minor noise from power supply isn't an issue, as long as you can feed the current as needed.
 
Good Morning All,

Well that's the sun shining here today so lots of power coming out of the solar panels and the bread making machine is on..............

Last night I was tinkering with odd jobs. I soldered the 12off capacitors wot arrived from Digi-Key to the 2off MiniCap6 boards for the next stereo 'Voyager' build and adding some SMD resistors:-

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along with a bit of 'bling' in the shape of a green LED:-

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I'm kind of at a 'loose end' until things arrive from overseas.

I need to get on with boxing up the two sold NAP135's today though.

Regards

Richard
 
Good Afternoon All,

Exhibit 1:-

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Exhibit 2:-

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This package can't be here then???????? Our address is available all over the internet so I'm not too concerned it's being seen here.

In the meantime prompted by a post by Mike this has arrived for making Neutrik connector sized holes:-

W1e2EsQ.jpg


I also have a 'proper' IEC punch somewhere but as I'm not using simple IEC sockets it's not a lot of use currently...........

I can make something of a start on the case later then but first I need to help Kate doing horsey things as the vet is due (again) this afternoon.

Regards

Richard
 
I really like using a punch rather than a drill. (Of course, you still have to use a drill for a starter hole, but that's no biggie.) I suggest you clamp the panel in some type of vice, and it does take a fair bit of elbow grease. Speaking of grease, I suggest you lubricate the punch a little bit between each hole. I didn't, and I think that's what caused mine to seize up and strip. I also noticed with each hole it became harder and harder to operate. I'm not 100% sure of the right kind of lubricant, but I suspect anything slippery would do, be it engine oil, bearing oil, or whatever.
 
Good Morning All,

Sat here listening to 'Crime of the Century' at the moment (Volume set at 80) - it's not easy to pick out what is causing it to sound like it does.

I have heard it through my other Klimax (pre 2018 variant) streamer so I doubt it is the presence of the 2108 variant entirely, so the 8 channels of Avondale amplification might be playing a part :rolleyes:

Somebody made the comment whilst I was upgrading the Isobariks as to whether I was actually spending any time actually listening to them. That struck me as a particularly strange comment at the time as the whole system was actually being listened to an awful lot as the Exact files were being 'developed'. Right now I should be packing the NAP135's I've sold so I do need to get on with this...............

You can certainly pick out the 'inky blackness' in front of you during the quiet bits, something I wasn't aware of with the Naim amplification.

As I've said before Isobariks just get better the better they're driven (and with a bit of help in updating the drivers...............)

My next amplifier build was going to be NCC200 based but has now become a NCC300 based one instead. My original plan is well and truly blasted out of the water.......o_O

Regards

Richard
 
Good Morning All,

£260 you pay (still awaiting customs charges bill to arrive) for a Modushop case and they can't even provide all the screws...............

It doesn't matter how many times I look at the screws provided there are the 8 short 4mm x 6mm to attached the brackets to the heatsinks but the other four similar ones to attach the front plate are most definitely AWOL......... grrrrrrrrr :mad:

Regards

Richard
 
Good Morning All,

£260 you pay (still awaiting customs charges bill to arrive) for a Modushop case and they can't even provide all the screws...............

It doesn't matter how many times I look at the screws provided there are the 8 short 4mm x 6mm to attached the brackets to the heatsinks but the other four similar ones to attach the front plate are most definitely AWOL......... grrrrrrrrr :mad:

Regards

Richard
That's weird, as they often include extras with mine.
 
Mike,

The seem to have supplied 4off 'surplus' 4mm x 15mm cheese heads instead, it's no big issue as I have lots of 4mm brass bolts available.

Two pictures for one and all now. Getting set for the arrival of the 2off NCC300 boards and looking at layout, the first is conventional i.e. transformers lying down:-

LDVnE0B.jpg


or slightly less conventionally transformers stood up:-

yNW17mA.jpg


Thoughts/ suggestions welcome from all.

Regards

Richard
 
Either of those layouts would do just fine. I would probably go for the first with the transformers laying down, just to spread the weight out on the panel, and you can still slip an SSM between them.

Another layout to consider is mounting the transformers on their sides, but with their bases towards the front. That will give you more space in the back of the amp, and still spreads out the load side-to-side.

What capacitors have you got in your Mini-Cap? Note that the NCM1 has two caps of 3300µF per side, so your Mini-Cap could go with as little as 1000µF per cap. I'm not sure if there's a problem with having too much smoothing in the front end power supply. I realize that Voyagers often have Mini-Caps for the front end, but they're driving a VBE or HCR200 board, which is a heavier load. The front-end regulation on the NCC300 is much less of a burden to bear.
 
Good Morning All,

£260 you pay (still awaiting customs charges bill to arrive) for a Modushop case and they can't even provide all the screws...............

It doesn't matter how many times I look at the screws provided there are the 8 short 4mm x 6mm to attached the brackets to the heatsinks but the other four similar ones to attach the front plate are most definitely AWOL......... grrrrrrrrr :mad:

Regards

Richard

I probably have some, let me know if you get stuck.
 
Mike,

The seem to have supplied 4off 'surplus' 4mm x 15mm cheese heads instead, it's no big issue as I have lots of 4mm brass bolts available.

Two pictures for one and all now. Getting set for the arrival of the 2off NCC300 boards and looking at layout, the first is conventional i.e. transformers lying down:-

LDVnE0B.jpg


or slightly less conventionally transformers stood up:-

yNW17mA.jpg


Thoughts/ suggestions welcome from all.

Regards

Richard

The inner chassis is up side down, but you prob know that (sorry just checking). As Mike said, better flat and use the inner chassis to spread the load of the Txs.
 
Graham,

Yes re the chassis being upside down, it is only attached on the left hand side anyway just trying to work out the assorted bolts/ screws. As I say the M4 x 12mm brass bolts with a nut and washer (acting as a spacer) will do the job.

Have been out drilling/cutting/ filing/stamping the rear panel earlier this evening.

Have ordered various bits for this and the next (hopefully last) Avondale based amplifier replacement from RS.

Regards

Richard
 


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