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Courtiestown - Naim Amplifier (Avondale) Upgrade Project

337alant said:
Below is a picture of one of my old Voyagers, I don't think the wiring is too bad if you plan the layout well
Voy 5 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Alan
Click to expand...
That's very neat, especially because transformers are kept away from circuit and signal cables. For a stereo enclosure it's gonna be tough.

Let's say transformer (we are now talking of one big transformer) at the front in the middle (away from NCCs and signal / output cables)
NCC200 and VBEs in each side like yours
The trick I'd have done is to put MiniCaps on top of Cap6 (with the help of a pc board in the size of Cap6 to hold miniCaps). These are placed in the middle/back of chassis.
Finally protection is placed farther back (near binding posts)
Only one drawback, the little bit long cables going from miniCap to VBE.
 
Good Evening All,

Stupid question time........

How are people fixing the Avondale heat sinks to the the likes of the Modu case heatsinks?

Pictures and explanations welcome.

Regards

Richard
 
Richard Lines said:
How are people fixing the Avondale heat sinks to the the likes of the Modu case heatsinks?
Click to expand...
Before I learned how to drill and thread my own holes, I would drill straight through to a spot between the fins, and hide a bolt inside. You can't really see it without looking for it. Then I got the tools to thread those holes.
 
When I built my hackernap amp I stacked the 4 Cap 6 modules to save space as this was a small depth case
I have all the parts to build a stereo amp in a bigger case with NCC220 amps and the HCR 200 regs with a large Torroid with 2x35-0-35 and 2 x 42-0-42v secondarys

IMG_2217 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
IMG_4030 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Alan
 
Nothing wrong with the Germans had 2 pairs in daily use without issue for years no problem they just take up a lot of space if your tight for it.
 
Good Morning All,

Just about to head to bed. Does anybody have any idea what Naim were thinking when they decided on hole centres for the heat sinks?

Is it 66mm or 2 19/32" (maybe not absolutely accurate measuring but it's in that ball park).

Regards

Richard
 
Richard Lines said:
Does anybody have any idea what Naim were thinking when they decided on hole centres for the heat sinks?

Is it 66mm or 2 19/32" (maybe not absolutely accurate measuring but it's in that ball park).
Click to expand...
That's why I created a little aluminum strip to use as a template. I can't recall how I originally created it, but I may have use existing holes in a Naim case to get them in the right place.
 
Mike Hanson said:
Before I learned how to drill and thread my own holes, I would drill straight through to a spot between the fins, and hide a bolt inside. You can't really see it without looking for it. Then I got the tools to thread those holes.
Click to expand...
Cutting a thread in an aluminium heatsink is very satisfying...or is that just me?
 
chiily said:
Cutting a thread in an aluminium heatsink is very satisfying...or is that just me?
Click to expand...
Yes and no. It's rewarding when it works, but if you screw it up it's very frustrating. I'm not currently good enough to have confidence that I won't screw it up, so it feels a bit precarious. ;)
 
Half a turn forwards, third of a turn backwards.

I did a pair of m2.5 holes in 2mm stainless steel you could feel the tap twist, I had drilled them out 0.1mm bigger than the taping size to make it easer to tap.


Pete
 
Pete MB&D said:
Half a turn forwards, third of a turn backwards.

I did a pair of m2.5 holes in 2mm stainless steel you could feel the tap twist, I had drilled them out 0.1mm bigger than the taping size to make it easer to tap.
Click to expand...
I definitely did that forwards/backwards thing. My biggest challenge is getting it started, especially for a "shallow" hole. I suppose it's like landing a plane on a short runway. :D
 
Good Evening All,

Interesting day.

Got on the tractor today to get things sorted as the fencing contractor was due which started with wanting to move the horse trailer to get the horses in. Find the battery is dead...... break out charger and go and have a cup of tea. Come back later tractor starts OK but alternator light doesn't go out - I ask Kate who is simply oblivious to this kind of thing. OK I thought I'll look at this later we need to get on with things. Some what later moving fence posts and the coolant temperature is creeping up - not good thought I. Back to the shed with steam emanating. Quick look at alternator pulley and yes the belt has come off the pulley - note to self must check belt tension more often........

Comments invited on the photograph below:-

wF7mHdZ.jpg


Started on the MiniCap6's, the other components are en route from DigiKey. I will go with fitting inductors as intended by LesW, and take it from there:-

3VQ3cHT.jpg


I intend hacking a perfectly good NCC200/ HCR200 heatsink apart to form a template for drilling mounting holes. I'm confident some aircraft grade glue can be used to put it back together.

I secured various parts 'advertised' by mega lord (Stu) as well. I have 10 channels of amplification to replace.................

A question for the Voyager builders out there. I have read about TR6 on such as NCC300's getting 'warm' and suggestions to fit it with a suitable heatsink. Anybody care to comment on how 'warm' TR6 gets on a NCC200 board if run above 45V???

Regards

Richard
 
Mike Hanson said:
I definitely did that forwards/backwards thing. My biggest challenge is getting it started, especially for a "shallow" hole. I suppose it's like landing a plane on a short runway. :D
Click to expand...

If you have a drill press, use that to start the tap straight. Obs turn the chuck by hand!
 
Richard Lines said:
I intend hacking a perfectly good NCC200/ HCR200 heatsink apart to form a template for drilling mounting holes. I'm confident some aircraft grade glue can be used to put it back together.
Click to expand...
Will it still conduct heat? If not, then you've kind of defeated the purpose. ;)
 
S-Man said:
If you have a drill press, use that to start the tap straight. Obs turn the chuck by hand!
Click to expand...
I've got one, and I saw a video where someone used their bench press the power through an entire threading job. Given the shallow hole, obviously that wouldn't work for me.

That's a great idea to spin it by hand, though, using the chunk to maintain orientation.
 
Both TR4 and TR6 get pretty hot I have sinks on them both, Ill try and find the part number.You can always glue a bit of aluminium on them, I was bothered about long term durability and those ZTX tranies are a very old part so bound to disappear sooner or later.
 
Geoff,

It's OK I have already ordered Farnell 2822615 I was just wondering how many other people had reacted to observations about 'hot' components. I note that as the ZTX are a 'truncated' TO-92 (E line??) shape a TO-92 heatsink isn't a 'perfect' fit.

Time to break out the plumbers grips and use some controlled 'brute' force................

Just found a previous thread - https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/heatsink-for-e-line-transistor-package-ztx552-etc.257542/

Regards

Richard
 
Mike Hanson said:
I've got one, and I saw a video where someone used their bench press the power through an entire threading job. Given the shallow hole, obviously that wouldn't work for me.

That's a great idea to spin it by hand, though, using the chunk to maintain orientation.
Click to expand...

Do you have taper, plug and bottoming taps for all the sizes?
I find a taper or plug tap easer to start.

Pete
 
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