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Colin Wonfor's SECA amp build

Nice work Colin:cool:

What's the little vero board item mounted on the heat sink?

The red board in the middle looks like a switched relay on/off?

I have such a device in my Voyager build but I've not seen the red one before.

Any chance of a link and/or some details?:)

It,s one I design in 2010 for another project. I foolishly got involved with that company now they only make overpriced cables.:D
The Thermistor lead were to short so I used the Vero Board a harness.
 
Nice one Col.

I like the inclusion of the thermal switches on the heatsinks just in case.

Spacious those Modushop cases aren't they.

Yes I did that just in case the cat wanted a warm bed, so they switch the PSU OFF at 70C
 
''It,s one I design in 2010 for another project''

Nice

if said company has no rights to the design then a DIY version would go down well and make a good partner for your boards. It'll slow down those toroids from taking a large gulp at switch on.

''I foolishly got involved with that company now they only make overpriced cables''

:D I thought that they where also making over priced amps:D

But that's another story.
 
''It,s one I design in 2010 for another project''

Nice

if said company has no rights to the design then a DIY version would go down well and make a good partner for your boards. It'll slow down those toroids from taking a large gulp at switch on.

''I foolishly got involved with that company now they only make overpriced cables''

:D I thought that they where also making over priced amps:D

But that's another story.

Yes they made Amps to keep the other shareholder away from the main building so they themselves could not be monitored. Then over priced the amps so none would sell and this would give them another shit poor excuse to get rid of him. as there stupid greed could not be mentioned, this wrecked the guy life made him homeless and put him back into hospital, what bastards. And he thought they were his friends.:D
 
Yes it can be a cut throat world and AH's seem to climb pretty high in it.

Luckily for us DIY is much more friendly and relies pretty much on sharing.

Less profit and more fun.:cool:

I know which of the two I prefer.:D
 
Soft Start available now.

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Nice work Colin:cool:

What's the little vero board item mounted on the heat sink?

The red board in the middle looks like a switched relay on/off?

I have such a device in my Voyager build but I've not seen the red one before.

Any chance of a link and/or some details?:)

See above, done today.
 
Nice work Colin

A pretty useful board.:cool:

Sweet, stress free switch on without the bumppppp.

I'll take two for my MYREF FE please for starters.

How do I order?
 
Just a note, please insure when you mount the LM337 and LM317 on your heatsink to use the insulating mounting kit correctly and check with meter that there are no short circuit to the heatsink from the Tab of these regulators, because it will blow fuses.
This check should also be done for all the Semiconductors (transistor and FET's)
The short circuit could be a cracked insulator or the TOP HAT that goes through the mounting hole on the LM317 or the LM337.

Do this check before you wire the PCB up to transformer and amp pcb.

If it happen after you checked it check again the first audible sign is a chattering relay. On the PSU board, this is normally a blown fuse.
 
Hi Colin, good to hear you are back to a decent state of health!!
Bad to hear that you are putting temptation in my path!!! :)

Sorry for being dim, but could you explain what the extra PS board does and also clarify which boards are suitable for which power/option and the costs.

BTW, I still remember very clearly** hearing your system up in Glenrothes all those years ago - seem to recall we played JJ Cale Cloudy Day - excellent sound!

** in both senses of the word :)

Dave S
 
Hi Colin, good to hear you are back to a decent state of health!!
Bad to hear that you are putting temptation in my path!!! :)

Sorry for being dim, but could you explain what the extra PS board does and also clarify which boards are suitable for which power/option and the costs.

BTW, I still remember very clearly** hearing your system up in Glenrothes all those years ago - seem to recall we played JJ Cale Cloudy Day - excellent sound!

** in both senses of the word :)

Dave S

Hi Dave,

It was Dalgety Bay not Glenrothes, but hey a long time ago.

Single Ended A Class Amps with a constant current load, like this one have no immunity from ripple or hum on the power rails, in the old TOCA amps I just increase the Bulk Cap size but that now is very costly. This reduced the ripple and problem solved.
For a quick approximation you can say 1A on a 10,000uF give about 1V of ripple, not to good if you want finite detail.
Next the FET,s in the Amp but not the Constant Current load has about 3V across it fully on, this is wasteful.

So to cut the story short I used a Hum Bucking Technique I have used before on MIL spec PSU's and a Current Multiplying Transistor on a simple but very reliable linear psu design.

So the main Bulk caps bring the ripple down to 1V and the Regulator bring it down to about 10mV.

Now to squeeze the FET and reduce that voltage drop.

The PSU is a tracking type very simple but it works, the Zero volt ref is split and that point goes to the power amp and under normal running no change but as the Output of the amp peaks to about 10V the PSU climbs, +v or -v.
Allowing the output to swing rail to rail, or close.
I deal for those nasty dynamic sounds.

We also use large caps after the regulators, just for peak storage of energy.
The regulator have a very simple current fold back the allow the output cap to charge up slower at about 6A, and not 50+Amps.

I do hope this helps a little my writing technique has always been crap.
 
I stripped out the Aleph J pcb's this afternoon and redrilled the heatsinks ready for the One4Audio boards so fingers crossed I will have a working amp by end of day tomorrow :cool::D
 
One channel is warming up at the moment. I have set the bias to 150mv across R12 but it keeps dropping and the offset is reading 0.45V is this normal? If so how long roughly does the amp take to stabilise?

Your advice would be much appreciated Col.
 


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