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Can the Karousel be fitted when using the Vivid acrylic subchassis and armboard ?

Don't shoot the messenger, I'm only reporting what the dealer said. These things need to be reported and thought about.

I've had a Linn since the very early eighties apart from the bearing and plinth there is very little of the original left and I feel that it sounds better than the original, no I personally wouldn't replace the bits I have with Linn bits. Stupid crazy prices. My opinion only, not an argument.
Was your dealer talking about a totally Linn LP12 including cartridge, or Linn amplifiers and speakers too?
 
“... The Greenstreet sub chassis was a new unit and of similar thickness to a Cirkus sub chassis. No shim was required and the Karousel fit just fine without any extra effort necessary over installing it on a Linn sub chassis.”
I got an email from David Genther which reads:

"It has come to my attention that the Karousel incompatibility issue is within the machining tolerance for the bearing pocket. It seems that on most sub-chassis, the disk is not needed after all. We suggest that when fitting the Karousel, try it without the disk first. If it clamps up tight, toss the disk and let us know. Your payment will be promptly refunded. Sorry for the confusion."

I will await the arrival of my disk/shim before I order a Karousel for myself. Going from a Pre-Cirkus bearing to a Karousel should be a significant change, no?
 
Now I get what we mean. The "brim" of the hat has 3 small holes to accept the lands I need to measure the diameter of the inner hole in the insert to see if it will take the top bolt and a socket widthwise and if it´s too small for the the depth of same, subtracted from the 10mm of the acrylic. That is the real thickness we are talking about - the useful space below the brim of the hat ? Sorry, I´m getting mixed up. I´ll have a look at it tonight.
 
Now I get what we mean. The "brim" of the hat has 3 small holes to accept the lands I need to measure the diameter of the inner hole in the insert to see if it will take the top bolt and a socket widthwise and if it´s too small for the the depth of same, subtracted from the 10mm of the acrylic. That is the real thickness we are talking about - the useful space below the brim of the hat ? Sorry, I´m getting mixed up. I´ll have a look at it tonight.

I don't follow all of that, but the holes for the bolts to hold a Cirkus are in the top of the top-hat.

The pic' I linked to shows the underside and the bearing shown there is up, inside the top-hat.

If I was making one from scratch - I have seen only the pic's linked to here - I'd turn some metal plugs with a flange/rim (brim), and then drill the centre of those to suit bearing and springs/bolts. The flange would be underneath so that the plugs would not pull out/through the acrylic.

This shows the top side -https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=aAV3Es0m&id=F4852FABE3E3E31848602F22162B077AEB215D33&thid=OIP.aAV3Es0m5AuKT4eug1uU7AHaFj&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fi50.tinypic.com%2f14txxc5.jpg&exph=600&expw=800&q=vivid+acrylic+LP12+chassis&simid=607999719759087431&ck=67C80CD0F604D0284E6D1F956BE389F7&selectedIndex=1&FORM=IRPRST&ajaxhist=0
 
The more I look at these pics, I cannot see how it could possibly not "fit", the bearing top nut just tightens against the disc inset into the Vivid acrylic. Only the diameter of the hole in the top plate is a limiting factor as the rim of the top nut should not touch the top plate. Presumably the weight of the inner platter as it hangs down on the springs sees to this slight detail. ¿no? A possible change in clearance between top plate and outer platter edge would be the only change in appearance but I doubt it would be noticeable. I must be thick ´cos I don´t know where the shims for the greenstreet would go.
Surely the discs on the Vivid are not a pressure fit. There must be some strong adhesive in there somewhere.
 
I must be thick ´cos I don´t know where the shims for the greenstreet would go.
Surely the discs on the Vivid are not a pressure fit. There must be some strong adhesive in there somewhere.

The spacer/shim will just adjust a height/clearance and presumably fits under the nut that fits the top of the Karousel.
The adhesive holding the inserts in, assuming that they have a flange, will do no more than hold the inserts in place while the thing is shipped and assembled. If the inserts have no flange it is a thoroughly p-poor design (alternatives would be a taper or a thread but they would be lunatic design options unless "they sounded better").
 
Hi VinnyJust looking at the photos you sent. The insert discs/washers are larger on the upper face than on the lower so I suppose that is what you mean and the inset depth in the acrylic themselves must start larger and then be stepped to a smaller size somewhere between the 2 diameters. Or maybe the two halves of the discs, upper and lower, are screwed together like an aluminium nut cracker and tightened against the acrylic somehow. Leverage might be a problem, I guess.
 
Hi VinnyJust looking at the photos you sent. The insert discs/washers are larger on the upper face than on the lower so I suppose that is what you mean and the inset depth in the acrylic themselves must start larger and then be stepped to a smaller size somewhere between the 2 diameters. Or maybe the two halves of the discs, upper and lower, are screwed together like an aluminium nut cracker and tightened against the acrylic somehow. Leverage might be a problem, I guess.

If you take a look at them again, the inserts are proud of the acrylic on the underside and the underside diameter is the larger (it is closer to the edges of the acrylic).
They are pushed in from the underside and there is a flange to stop them going all the way through. There must be adhesive on the insert holding the bearing, otherwise the weight of the platter would push it out - logically that one would have the flange on the top, but presumably clearances would not allow, although it could be set into a lager bore just 1-2mm deep.

The flanges would also ensure that everything pulled-up square.
 
I got an email from David Genther which reads:

"It has come to my attention that the Karousel incompatibility issue is within the machining tolerance for the bearing pocket. It seems that on most sub-chassis, the disk is not needed after all. We suggest that when fitting the Karousel, try it without the disk first. If it clamps up tight, toss the disk and let us know. Your payment will be promptly refunded. Sorry for the confusion."

I will await the arrival of my disk/shim before I order a Karousel for myself. Going from a Pre-Cirkus bearing to a Karousel should be a significant change, no?

I might end up being the only person in the UK with a GS shimmed Karousel! Very good it sounds.....
 
I might end up being the only person in the UK with a GS shimmed Karousel! Very good it sounds.....
Yes, I had a chat with David some months ago on this, he was dead set at that time on the shim, I couldn’t see why his sub chassis would need one. I have not spoken to him since and didn’t know that he had changed his mind! Personally, I can’t see any reason why it should make it sound worse, as long as the top nut is clear of the sub platter, shouldn’t be an issue. Enjoy!
 
Hi VinnyJust looking at the photos you sent. The insert discs/washers are larger on the upper face than on the lower so I suppose that is what you mean and the inset depth in the acrylic themselves must start larger and then be stepped to a smaller size somewhere between the 2 diameters. Or maybe the two halves of the discs, upper and lower, are screwed together like an aluminium nut cracker and tightened against the acrylic somehow. Leverage might be a problem, I guess.
Hi, please take this the right way, I am not trying to insult you! Reading through your posts, are you sure that fitting a Karousel and fettling the turntable is something you really want to do? I can fully understand why you don’t want to pay a dealer (I myself am tighter than a clam with lockjaw), but sometimes some expertise is needed. If your anywhere near the NW of England I’ll gladly fit it for you, gratis. Drop me a PM.
 
I’m ok with that Matfff. I was just wondering why there has been talk of the Karousel not being compatible with some non Linn subchasses. At this stage of the game I am in no hurry to buy the Karousel in fact I probably never will but I’m sure I could fit it if I had to. I just couldn’t get my head round why it might not fit. Living where I do I have always hadto fettle my Linn myself since buying it in 1982. There are no dealers here to pay anyway.
 
Was your dealer talking about a totally Linn LP12 including cartridge, or Linn amplifiers and speakers too?

Arm and cart, not speakers. I also ( looking back to earlier posts ) think he ment work properly not just work.
 
If you take a look at them again, the inserts are proud of the acrylic on the underside and the underside diameter is the larger (it is closer to the edges of the acrylic).
They are pushed in from the underside and there is a flange to stop them going all the way through. There must be adhesive on the insert holding the bearing, otherwise the weight of the platter would push it out - logically that one would have the flange on the top, but presumably clearances would not allow, although it could be set into a lager bore just 1-2mm deep.

The flanges would also ensure that everything pulled-up square.

Yes Vinny, I get you. Theinserts that house the springs ( flange below) must/should be be different from the one for the bearing (flange above and inset - hopefully - otherwise I agree, it is a crappy arrangement. Thelousy photos prevent us from seeing things clearly. The next time I strip mine down I will pay close attention
 
I got an email from David Genther which reads:

"It has come to my attention that the Karousel incompatibility issue is within the machining tolerance for the bearing pocket. It seems that on most sub-chassis, the disk is not needed after all. We suggest that when fitting the Karousel, try it without the disk first. If it clamps up tight, toss the disk and let us know. Your payment will be promptly refunded. Sorry for the confusion."

I will await the arrival of my disk/shim before I order a Karousel for myself. Going from a Pre-Cirkus bearing to a Karousel should be a significant change, no?

If you have the pre-Cirkus version of the Greenstreet subchassis you will definitely need to use the shim. It appears those with the Cirkus version of the GS sub do not from what I’ve seen of those who installed them.
 
Yes, I had a chat with David some months ago on this, he was dead set at that time on the shim, I couldn’t see why his sub chassis would need one. I have not spoken to him since and didn’t know that he had changed his mind! Personally, I can’t see any reason why it should make it sound worse, as long as the top nut is clear of the sub platter, shouldn’t be an issue. Enjoy!

The Cirkus version of the GS sub is about 1.9 mm thick around the bearing mount, very close to the 2mm of Linn Cirkus, Kore and Keel. Should not need the spacer.

The pre-Cirkus version is just of 1mm so will need the shim for sure.
 
If you have the pre-Cirkus version of the Greenstreet subchassis you will definitely need to use the shim. It appears those with the Cirkus version of the GS sub do not from what I’ve seen of those who installed them.
Well, I thought I had the pre-Cirkus version of the GS sub, as that is what I ordered. When I contacted David Genther about the shim, and asked him to check his records on which variant of the sub he sent me, I was told mine was a Cirkus version. This seems to make sense as my platter rides about 1mm lower than it used to before I changed the sub-chassis. This is with the armboard perfectly level with the plinth.

I will know for sure when I tear down my LP12 to install the Karousel. But first, I'd like to have the shim on hand, just in case mine is in fact a pre-Cirkus. That shim is still winging its way to me from USA.
 
Sounds like you do have the Cirkus version. Interested in your impressions once you get it installed, hopefully some pictures too!
 


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