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Building the Ergo E-IX mini-monitor loudspeaker system

I have original Kans and know the Harbeth version (of the small BBCs) and can say that these sound more natural and indeed seamless.

Maybe a review in one of the well known magazins or sites would help selling them? Or look for a partner for distribution?
 
I have a pair of these which Stefan built for me a few years back in my study system. They are in basic birch ply with black Corian baffles . Not only do they look the business but they sound magical.
They are driven by a pair of Les's M130's wth Naim 72 pre with Avondale 821A cards. Sources are computer workstation with RME 9632 sound card, Lin Karik2, Rega P5, Raspberry Pi /moOde audio player
Sony CDR W33R, recapped MDAC etc etc.
I used a pair of Harbeth P3 ES2 with a Dynaudio 250 sub for several years before I bought the Ergos and was quite happy with the sound.
The upgrade to the M130's and the Ergo's have almost made the sub redundant but I keep it switched on just for those extra low notes

These little Ergo's are really great speakers and punch way above their weight. My main system has Yamaha 1000M's as delivery devices which I have been happy with for over 37 years
What I like about the Ergo's is that they reproduce female vocals really beautifully and match the Yamahas in the mid range very credibly.
I almost stretched to the Harbeth M30.1 but space was an issue and the cost was way higher

Just my 2p's worth

eddie
 
Just make sure you have at least a 50WPC amp behind them

I tried them with a CDS3 / Supernait1 and will also try bigger amps.

What about a project with a large (DBL like) bass driver and everything else covered by a full range driver?
 
A couple of rubbish images:

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They really are great speakers and such a simple solution to what is often a complex problem. I'd like to see even more people using these but outside of the 2 group buys in here I only sold a couple of pairs. I think they are as good as any small 2 way I've heard

I am surprised. I would have expected small speakers like this to be the most popular. Have your single driver speaker kits proved more popular?

I notice you don't have any larger 3 ways (yet?) on your site which for a well designed kit I would expect to offer the most value to a DIYer in terms of being able to obtain high quality speakers which many of us might struggle to justify buying commercially. I recall someone, possibly yourself, mentioning that Wilmslow's large speakers with the expensive ATC (now Volt) 3" midrange were popular.
 
What about a project with a large (DBL like) bass driver and everything else covered by a full range driver?
Yeah, nah. A full ranger + 15" woofer won't work to my satisfaction for a multitude of reasons.

Besides, I hung up my designing shoes a decade ago. Yuckyamson is still trying to get me to design a tribute to the NS-1000M, and out-yam the mighty Yam. But the unavailability of the right midrange driver remains the main barrier.

I'm more than happy to watch the E-IX grow in popularity and support the DIY community.
 
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Don't forget to cut the rebates, azman. They'd be a b!tch to cut after gluing up. Just sayin'.
 
Yes, James.

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The internal braces are not fully trim yet, just dry fitting.
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That wall thickness after rebate is 12mm as your drawing.
 
Hmmmm, the back rebate is normally less deep than the front, if using 25mm MDF for the baffle and 18-19mm board for the back.

I'm guessing you are accommodating the fillets for securing the back, if I understand your intentions.
 
I use the same board for the back panel as the rest of the cabinet, and mdf for the front. The board is 20mm thick, how ever I can't find 25mm mdf locally, so I will use 18mm mdf. The internal volume is adjusted accordingly, hopefully not sounding much different.
Thanks James.
 
The rebate at the back is slightly more to allow for final flush trim with back panel as the wood is not perfect.
 
Guys - be gentle when screwing down the Scanspeak units - I managed to drive one of the threaded inserts out through the baffle....
 
Unscrew the driver, replace the threaded insert. Then replace the driver. Hold it the bolt length away from the baffle, pop all the screws through the holes so they dangle. Engage them one at a time then go around giving them a couple of turns at a time, that way if it does start to turn one of the inserts it won't do it till the last few turns by which time it won't matter really.
 


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