Building a pair of Ergo IX micro-monitor speakers

[hacker]

The time has come! The wait to get US employment authorisation is over, I've been offered a good job and I'm going to build these suckers.

I was originally planning on buying the sapele mahogany this weekend, but a smokin' deal came up on a Makita LS1013FL dual slide compound mitre saw that I just couldn't pass up:

It's a factory reconditioned unit, complete with manufacturer warranty, for the princely sum of $350 USD. This beauty means that I don't need to hire the services of a joiner (expensive) for the tricky wood cuts, and I can't wait to start making some sawdust... I think a little practice in cutting and biscuiting is called for before taking the blade to my pristine sapele, though

Next post: slicing and dicing!

 

[chiily]

Great stuff Carl. You'll not regret it, DIY speakers are where it's at.

If the finished product sounds anything like the quality of my PFM Specials, another great design from James, then you'll be in for a treat.

Good luck.

Oh you want a picture of the PFM Specials, sure thing...

These still rock my world.

Okay then two pictures.

Nice saw btw.

 

[hacker]

I remember watching avidly as you posted progress on those speakers - bloody lovely. But dude... Red?!?!?

 

[hacker]

Will the standard blade that comes with the Makita be ok for working with hard woods like sapele? It comes fitted with a 10" 70-tooth A-93550 carbide-tipped blade and I want to make sure it's up to the job. Can any of the experienced woodworkers comment? James, what did you use?

Thanks,
Carl

 

[hacker]

More thoughts... I really like the look of these:

They'd look lovely in sapele. The same upholstery leather used to cover the front baffles of the speakers could be used to cover the black part of the upright portions to create a cohesive look. I think I'd go for sapele tops and bottoms, rather than black surfaces.

James (and others), do you have any opinion on what effect this type of stand would have as opposed to the 4-legged variety you built? I was thinking that the black section that's squeezed between the two wooden sections of the uprights doesn't need to be solid, and could form a sort of tube into which I could pour sand or other sound-deadening material.

Another idea I had was to use a single 2" or 3" diameter x 27" (700mm) long tube as a single support. Suitable material may be aluminium or perhaps good old plastic plumbing pipe! For aesthetic reasons it would be nicely trimmed in the upholstery leather, then affixed securely to the base of the speaker stand (sapele, 200x265x18mm) and filled with sand. The top of the stand would be fitted on top to finish it off. That would look pretty cool, something like this but with sapele top and base:

A similar idea to above would be to use 3 1"x27" tubes as supports, laid out in a triangular pattern. Other variants could use be 4x 1" tubes, etc.

I also saw these which look fairly easy to emulate:

Of course, I could just stick to the design you came up with... Too many choices!

 

[James]

Carl,

The sawblade that comes with the LS1013 is fine. Mine has cut over 600 lineal metres of hardwood for my deck and still makes perfect mitre-cuts in Sapele.

As for the stands, I prefer the first single-column one - but you might like to consider making it a bit thicker a la Ergo VIIs ...

I had also cleverly put the XO in the stand ...

... which you might like to consider.

Garf, I'm really thrilled the PFM-Specials continue to rock your world. It's a real shame the Vifa M26WR is now discontinued.

Likewise, the Seas M15CH001 midrange used in the E-IIIR is gone too ...

These remain my finest work and my reference for all other Ergos. I love them to bits.

James

 

[hacker]

James, how are the IXs and VIIs joined to the stands? I see no spikes or anything like that. I also can't quite see from your photos - are the black parts of the stands painted or leathered?

Thanks,
Carl

PS. Please stop posting pictures of your work in this thread, you're going to make mine look shabby!!

 

[stevec67]

Chiily, nice use of a fireguard. Good skills.

Hacker, you are going to want a biscuit jointer too. They aren't expensive but you need to know how to set up and build jigs so your biscuits are in the right place.

 

[James]

James, how are the IXs and VIIs joined to the stands? I see no spikes or anything like that. I also can't quite see from your photos - are the black parts of the stands painted or leathered?

Carl, the E-IXs are simply plonked down, and rest on bump-ons. The E-VIIs are bolted on the underside via threaded inserts. The front of the E-VII stand is leathered, but the back is just painted MDF.

PS. Please stop posting pictures of your work in this thread, you're going to make mine look shabby!!

Sorry, I'll desist now ...

James

 

[hacker]

Hacker, you are going to want a biscuit jointer too. They aren't expensive but you need to know how to set up and build jigs so your biscuits are in the right place.

Funny you should mention it, but I bought one on Friday. It's cheap and the angle adjusting mechanism is horrible, but detachable. That leaves a good solid joiner that works well, but can't be angled. That's ok, because I plan to build a nice solid jig.

I've been giving a lot of thought to it, and I think I'm going to build one that allows me to place the joiner firmly at a precise 45 degree angle. It will hold the mitred speaker panels firmly in place (with clamps) and will ensure that every panel gets a biscuit slot in exactly the same place. The 45 degree angles for the jig will be cut using the Makita in exactly the same way as I'll cut the 45 degree mitres for the panels. I'll try and sketch it out later, and will post pics of the jig in action.

As well as a biscuit jointer, I'm going to need to be able to drill accurate vertical holes. I looked into drill presses, but I can't keep buying power tools! I think I'll have to go for some kind of drill clamp that can hold my power drill vertical and be used like a drill press. I've no idea what such a thing would be called, but surely they exist?!? Any ideas? The other option is a plunge router with a drill bit...

Carl, the E-IXs are simply plonked down, and rest on bump-ons. The E-VIIs are bolted on the underside via threaded inserts. The front of the E-VII stand is leathered, but the back is just painted MDF.

That's easy. I'm not sure what I'll got for, but will probably just try bump-ons first, then take it from there if I feel the urge to tinker.
Sorry, I'll desist now ...

 

[stevec67]

You can buy a clamp for a hand drill but TBH you are better off buying a cheap drill press. They start at £30-40, I have one and it's a great tool. The limit of accuracy is my skill, which sadly is modest.

You can buy kits for dowelling iirc.

 

[James]

Funny you should mention it, but I bought one on Friday. It's cheap and the angle adjusting mechanism is horrible, but detachable. That leaves a good solid joiner that works well, but can't be angled. That's ok, because I plan to build a nice solid jig.

I've been giving a lot of thought to it, and I think I'm going to build one that allows me to place the joiner firmly at a precise 45 degree angle. It will hold the mitred speaker panels firmly in place (with clamps) and will ensure that every panel gets a biscuit slot in exactly the same place. The 45 degree angles for the jig will be cut using the Makita in exactly the same way as I'll cut the 45 degree mitres for the panels. I'll try and sketch it out later, and will post pics of the jig in action.

A decent biscuit jointer should be able to cut slots on mitred ends without the need for a jig. My Dewalt makes the cut quickly and accurately. Have you read the owner's manual?

As well as a biscuit jointer, I'm going to need to be able to drill accurate vertical holes. I looked into drill presses, but I can't keep buying power tools! I think I'll have to go for some kind of drill clamp that can hold my power drill vertical and be used like a drill press. I've no idea what such a thing would be called, but surely they exist?!? Any ideas? The other option is a plunge router with a drill bit...

The router with a plunge bit is not accurate enough. What you're looking for is a drill press stand. A proper drill press is not an expensive item. Mine is made in China and does a superb job.

James

 

[stevec67]

I second James's view re drill presses. Mine was £35, I think, it's a great tool.

 

[hacker]

A decent biscuit jointer should be able to cut slots on mitred ends without the need for a jig.

The key word here is "decent". I confess to getting 1/3 off the asking price of $60... that's why the detachable/adjustable angle plate is a little wobbly and I'm sure you'll understand that I don't want wobbly anywhere near my Ergos! I can build a jig out of old bits of MDF, 4x4, some biscuits, some glue and some clamps. It'll be good practice for my non-existent woodworking skills, will get me used to using the Makita, making biscuit joints, planning an executing cuts/joining, and will improve my general wood-workery before taking blade to sapele.

I hear you on the drill press thing. I'll keep my eyes peeled on Craigslist and elsewhere to see if I can pick up a bargain - I managed it with the Makita!

Thanks guys,
Carl

 

[stevec67]

I can build a jig out of old bits of MDF, 4x4, some biscuits, some glue and some clamps. It'll be good practice for my non-existent woodworking skills, will get me used to using the Makita, making biscuit joints, planning an executing cuts/joining, and will improve my general wood-workery

Nowt wrong with that as a philosophy. We all need to practice before doing the difficult stuff. I couldn't weld till I'd built my workbench. Looking at some of the welds you might be forgiven for thinking I still can't.

Later efforts on a 2CV (MIG now, not stick) are a bit better and a grinder makes it all OK.

 

[neiljadman]

...I'm going to need to be able to drill accurate vertical holes. I looked into drill presses, but I can't keep buying power tools! ..

Carl, I don't know hew well it is used out in AZ, but I found my drill press on Craigslist - for $40 and it works just fine.

 

[MarkS]

The key word here is "decent". I confess to getting 1/3 off the asking price of $60... that's why the detachable/adjustable angle plate is a little wobbly and I'm sure you'll understand that I don't want wobbly anywhere near my Ergos!

At that price you are getting biscuit jointer that will not cut tight slots for the biscuits as it will have discernable wobble as you push it forward to make it's cut. This will translate into a slot that is much wider than the biscuit in it's compressed state. The positional accuracy and strength of a biscuit joint depends on the slots being cut almost tight to grip the biscuit in it's dry state, let alone when the biscuit is wet with glue and starting to expand.

 

[Fatmarley]

Carl,
Changing the subject slightly - One mistake a lot of inexperienced diyers make, is to mark the timber and then cut through the center of the mark. You must cut to the waste side of the timber, leaving the mark untouched. Use a nice sharp pencil, preferably with hard'ish lead. HB would probably be too soft and would give a thick line (less accurate).

Sometimes you can't see your mark because the hardwood is too dark. I put a bit of masking tape on kitchen worktops (that can't be marked) and mark on that.

(Please ignore this post and tell me to bugger off, if you already know what i've said)

 

[hacker]

I got my sapele today, and asked the lumber merchant to surface it to 18mm... the only problem was he's American and doesn't do millimetres! After some faffing we figured 23/32" was as close as we'd get. I got a couple of long planks, had them straight edged to 10 1/8" wide and 48" long. The remainder was chopped off to give me enough to make nice bases/tops for the speaker stands.

While I was there I asked the shop to do the rebate routing (rabbits in American parlance) so that it's nice and accurate:

Once they're mitred, biscuited and glued, they'll come up lovely with some careful sanding and some Danish oil. The price was fantastic ($7.49 per board foot) because the planks came out of the bargain bin. I managed to find two planks that had no knots, nice contiguous grain, no surface defects and were wide enough to straight edge them in the size required!

Any tips for doing the oiling?

Carl

 

[hacker]

Carl,
Changing the subject slightly - One mistake a lot of inexperienced diyers make, is to mark the timber and then cut through the center of the mark. You must cut to the waste side of the timber, leaving the mark untouched. Use a nice sharp pencil, preferably with hard'ish lead. HB would probably be too soft and would give a thick line (less accurate).

Sometimes you can't see your mark because the hardwood is too dark. I put a bit of masking tape on kitchen worktops (that can't be marked) and mark on that.

(Please ignore this post and tell me to bugger off, if you already know what i've said)

Lol, I actually discovered this the hard way a while ago! Thanks though, I can't get enough advice for this project - I want my Ergos to be the best I can possibly make them