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Black Gate caps

john & Jake

Jake was smarter than me
hi,
Anyone please tell me of a source for these caps in small quantities.
About to replace said items on my Arcam audio section.

The player is now sounding pretty good on the mods I've done so far but I want more, more I tell you, more............

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hi,
thanks Paul, very useful especially the information on the Audionote site.
Now off to fill the shopping cart.

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I don't think Audionote sell components anymore, this is what I was told by a number of people wanting to purchase Blackgates aswell,the only place that I know of in the UK that sell them is AudiocomInternational.
Which caps are you replacing in the Arcam and what types of BG are you going to try? be warned that they take days sometimes weeks to burn in and the N types can take even longer, they can sound lifeless at first but totally change after a while
 
hi Ron,
Don't know how far it is true but If you look at the Audionote site they are at pains to say that the caps are available from themselves despite rumours.

I'm replacing all of the caps in the analogue audio out section with it's equivalent black series of whichever type is within budget.

Non-techie, Wot's BG.

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BG = BlackGate.
Did you see this page (out of their frameset) John? Certainly seems to suggest that they are no longer selling components. I think that may post date the comments about Blackgate caps no longer being available - I read that as a more general comment on whether Blackgates are available or not.
 
John,

I've no experience of Black Gates, even though plenty of people have told me they are great.

The Jelmax spin machine puts me off (that and the prices) ;)

I do wonder though, before you spend a fortune, whether some closer analysis of the circuit would be worthwhile, in order to apply the BG's more sensibly.

What Arcam do you have? If I have the circuit, I'll take a look.

Andy.
 
If you are wanting to replace the coupling caps (I think they are 100uf non polar grey ones) I would use the Blackgate N type, before you order them I would try some different values first (any Type of bog standard electrolytic will do) I think 100uf is too high and I use 4.7uf Blackgate N types. once you find the capacitance that sounds best for you, order that value in blackgate's, you could try the standard, fk or N types, its all down to personnel taste, remember you can use voltages as low as 6.3v (they are cheapest) for the coupling, 1uf Evox SMR capacitors from CPC sound good here aswell
I could give you a list of what caps are best to change in the Arcam if you like, remember you don't have to just use Blackgates to get the best sound;)
 
Yes, I think Andy would be the best man to help:) maybe he could give us all some idea's
 
There was a positive review of BGs in HFN/RR last year (july issue IIRC). The C types are recommended as DC blockers (coupling?).

I have added some NX Hi Qs as additional bypass caps to the orange roedersteins in my SNAXO with good results.
 
hi Ron & Richard,
BG = Black Gate, BF = Brain Fade doh.

Andy, I have the Arcam Alpha 5 +, I have the manual on pdf if you don't have it.
Your input would be most welcome. Reeespect Maaan.

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"If you are wanting to replace the coupling caps (I think they are 100uf non polar grey ones) "

Correct.

" would use the Blackgate N type, before you order them I would try some different values first (any Type of bog standard electrolytic will do) I think 100uf is too high and I use 4.7uf "

Curious as to why 100 is considered too big? Don't you lose bass if the coupling cap is reduced in value?
 
hi Ron,
a caps list would be very useful, yes please.
any proud owners of the AAA5 know if Black Gates have been fitted to their players.

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John,

I'm looking at the circuit at present - one thing you may like to try, if you haven't already, is to disconnect the output mute transistors for a simple, no-cost mod.

If you find any clicks or pops that then appear due to the lack of muting, we could look to adding a relay in place of the transistor.

My experience is that the signal variation across the mute transistor and it's inherent non-linearities is often clearly audible. Since it's in a shunt position and not directly in the signal path, a relay could be a good replacement, if the mute is required.

To disconnect it, raise one side of R13 and R16 where they connect to Q2 collector, and make a join between the two, in mid-air. For the other channel it's R116 / R116 and Q102.

The other thing you should so, is get rid of those god-awful NE5534 op-amps in the o/p stage. Sounds like a job for some AD825's.

The other really big thing we should look at is that horrible op-amp I-V stage (Z1 / Z101). This is not such a simple task, but would be better replaced with a discrete I-V, or possibly a CFB amp, although I've heard some reports of 'odd' sound with these.

Andy.
 
hi Andy,
After I've put the keyboard down the Audio boards coming out to disconnect the parts you mention.
I've already done the opamps with op27's which seem to be the recomendation. Result was very rythmic when burnt in and deep deep bass, haven't stopped addictive foot tapping since.

Mention has been made to th I V section on tweakers assylum but with no details, some using discrete bits. Would you have any more info on this please.

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hi,
just put the board back in after desoldering the ends of the resistors that Andy mentioned.
No dramas,pops crackles etc.
Bit more clarity,big room filling sound and surprise,surprise.
A strange bass, sort of howl that appeared on the intro of Metallica's Enter Sandman after my last mod, has now gone. Cymbals better, clashy.

This player just seems to get better and better for little money.
I keep turning to hear the drums of Metallica as I write.

Good tip Andy.
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hi Patrick,
Jake likes cats really, he just needs the exercise sometimes.
His favourite trick is to nudge the budgie with his nose to make him fly, great fun to chase.

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Here is almost about everything I can think of that has been changed in my AA5+

I changed to these mainly because the caps Arcam use are not very good
C403, 3300uf 25v Rubycon YK main pcb
C404,C405,C406,C407,C408 1000uf 50v Rubycon YXF main PCB
C205,C206,C241,C242 1000uf 50v Rubycon YXF audio pc

C207,C208,C209,C213 100uf 25v I'm still trying different types here around the +/- 15v variable voltage regs, Andy would probably know what would be best used here, A friend recommended 10uf 25v Oscon's SC and to be honest they sound better than all the others I have tried including Blackgates


You can try any single op-amps for the I/V and filter, I prefer OP27 for both, You can try just about any Analogue Device or Burr Brown for free, just get them to send you some samples for different types, I did, I think I have tried about every op-amp available, be carefull though because some can go unstable

connected a resitor to pins 4 & 6 of Z2,Z102 op-amps to run them in class A

C8,C108 to 120uf 50v Panasonic FC

C13,113 4.7uf Blackgate N type, coupling, try different capacitance here, use whatever you prefer, 1uf Evox SMR sound good aswell

All the other 100uf 25v including C210,C214 22uf 25v for the op-amps have been changed to 100uf 25v Rubycon YXF on the audioboard

Removed Q2,Q102 muting transistors

changed R116,R16 to 100R Holco Resistors and changed R13,R113 to copper wire link

Zero oversampling mod

I got this mod off Audio asylum, cut track joining pin 2 and 4 of Tda1541A, join pin 4 of Tda1541A to pin 9 of SAA7220 filter

The Arcam is also very fussy about what it sits on, If you have a Hi-fi rack with removeable borads, try this, buy a piece of wood the same size as one of the boards and cut a square hole in the middle abit smaller than a sheet of A4 paper, then replace the original shelf/board with the one with the hole in the middle and sit the Arcam on it making sure the feet don't fall through the hole and then have a listen, this mod blew my socks off:D it's easy to do an A and B comparison

Use a nice thick mains cable with MK plugs

I'm sure there is alot more that can be improved (any more idea's?) these mods was very cheap and to my ears the Alpha 5+sounds alot better
 


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