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Audiolab M-One unlock issue

dr35

dr35

Member
Hello guys,
I purchased an audiolab m-one 5 months ago. My problem with my unit is that it sometimes can not lock the signal via toslink connection. Firstly i thought about any electricity problem, maybe related with the grounding issue, due to this i called an electrician and checked the electrical situation of my building and he said “ok” for this. So i could eliminate the electrical issue for my problem. In addition to this, as you know, this devices do not need grounding (also the manual writes the same thing about grounding). As i said before, my device can not lock via toslink connection but also bluetooth connection and pc usb connection does not work too. Let me talk about the strangest point, my device sometimes works properly! That makes me crazy. It sometimes locks the signal! When i catch it locking, i leave the device working all day because i am afraid of facing with unlocking problem again if i turn it off. Although I tried my toslink cable with any other device and saw that it works properly (via home theatre), i bought one more new toslink cable from the shop to be completely sure about cable issue, but this did not help me to solve my problem because i could not take signal via the newly purchased toslink cable. One more info; analog input of my unit works properly.
For summary;
There is a dac entegrated stereo amplifier here, the dac unit of this device sometimes can not lock the signal via the digital inputs including bluetooth function. I want to mention again that it sometimes can lock the signal and it works properly! I guess something interrupts the locking function but i can not find what it is.
I thank a lot to forum members for the recommendations and their help and wish a good weekend for everybody
(Sorry for my poor English..)
 
I have one and it has always worked perfectly. Use a Toslink CV from a computer and also usb. Call IAG customer service (Rob Flain probably).
 
Obi1 said:
To much jitter from your source?
Did you try other sources?
Click to expand...
Thank you for your reply Obi1,
Yes i tried my Vaio Pc via optical output too. But the result was the same unfortunately:( I am confused at the point that when there is no cable connection through the digital inputs of M-One, the bluetooth function also does not work! :( As I mentioned before at my first post, it can sometimes lock! For example, i used my M-One regularly yesterday but today i see the “unlock” warning on the front panel again :( And one more thing, when it can not lock any digital signal, M-One gives out a sound of crackling/sizzling.

Then, how can i reduce the jitter of source? (My source is a 2016 year made 4K Sony android TV. I usually use Tidal app on it.)

Thanks a lot dear Obi1..
 
sls4321 said:
I have one and it has always worked perfectly. Use a Toslink CV from a computer and also usb. Call IAG customer service (Rob Flain probably).
Click to expand...
Thanks for your support sls4321,
I have a Vaio pc supporting optical out, and i tried my Vaio both with optical cable and usb cable to run my M-One but the result was the same; M-One can sometimes lock and sometimes can not! :(:(
Like both you and Obi1, i have also guessed something is wrong either with the source or connection but there is also a problem with bluetooth function. At those times (i mean the unlocking moments) bluetooth function does not work too! :( But when M-One is able to lock the signal then bluetooth function works regularly too:) It’s really weird.

Dear sls4321,
I live in Turkey so i don’t know if i can reach or not to the IAG customer service (Rob Flain or any other authorized one)
I guess you live in UK, am I wrong?
 
I bought mine when it first came out and I have since done a software update.

One option would be to do a software update as a potential fix. IAG can advise by email.
http://www.audiolab.co.uk/contact.php

Helpdesk Technical Advisor
IAG HOUSE, Audiolab
Unit 13&14 Glebe Road
Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire
PE29 7DL, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 (0) 845 4581122
Fax: +44 (0) 1480 413403
Website: www.audiolab.co.uk
 
sls4321 said:
I bought mine when it first came out and I have since done a software update.

One option would be to do a software update as a potential fix. IAG can advise by email.
http://www.audiolab.co.uk/contact.php

Helpdesk Technical Advisor
IAG HOUSE, Audiolab
Unit 13&14 Glebe Road
Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire
PE29 7DL, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 (0) 845 4581122
Fax: +44 (0) 1480 413403
Website: www.audiolab.co.uk
Click to expand...
Dear sls4321,
Thanks again for your further advice:)
I also had tried loading a newer software called v1.31. (When i bought my device, software v1.27 was loaded within it.) Unfortunately, updating from v1.27 to v1.31 did not help me to solve the issue:( The manufacturer might have released a further software. As you advise, i need to contact them to learn whether they released a newer software although updating to v1.31 did not help me. Actually I don’t want to hand in my unit to local services here in Turkey for repairement. All my confusion is about that my unit sometimes works properly and sometimes does not. What causes this instability?:(
 
I dont know the item but have the 8200cdq preamp-dac and that has a setting to adjust the sensitivity to jitter and drop outs - My digital tuner had such issues into it until i changed that setting. Does you dac-amp have a similar function?
 
mercalia said:
I dont know the item but have the 8200cdq preamp-dac and that has a setting to adjust the sensitivity to jitter and drop outs - My digital tuner had such issues into it until i changed that setting. Does you dac-amp have a similar function?
Click to expand...
Dear Mercalia,
Thank u for your kind reply.
These units called M-One do also support jitter-rejection function. I can change the settings via menu. There ara options as “low bandwith, medium bandwith, high bandwith and automatic” under the setting of “Jitter Rejection” within the menu of the unit. But any change of these setting modes did not help me:(
 
Hi again,
Someone from Audiolab answered me via mail. He just advised me to set the proper settings of my TV unit which I use as source. However, I am sure that I already use the proper audio output settings on my TV (PCM stereo). In addition to this he kindly explained me that they are just responsible for support and service only for the UK (I live in Turkey and I guess there is no official support for Turkey:(). By the way the shop where I bought my device claims that they are the official distributors of Audiolab in Turkey. So i do not have any doubt about the warranty issue, even so if there is something wrong that I can solve myself, I do not want to hand in my M-one to the repair-service.

Anyway, I now wonder if I try a higher quality toslink cable (I mean the ones that are being produced for hi-fi systems) can I solve my problem or not? I use a Philips branded toslink cable that is quitely acceptible priced now. Do i need to try one that is just designed for hi-fi components to reduce jitter? Do you suggest me trying an expensive toslink cable although I still do not know my device’s problem is jitter or not? I can not be sure that the problem is just jitter because the bluetooh function of my M-One sometimes does not work too as well as the USB function failure, as I mentioned before.
Finally I want to tell you again that when i turn my device on, it sometimes works. I know this is weird but that is true folks:) When I turn it off whilst working properly and after that turn it on again, oops it does not work :confused::confused:
 
I had an M-DAC. I don't quibble about its performance, but I fed it with an Airport Express. It was incapable of using the digital output of the most recent one due to excess jitter regardless of setting. I had to set up an aged AE to make it work. This issue is well documented with the M-DAC, there was another thread not too long ago about someone not being able to make their television talk to the DAC. Your unit features a similar chipet and featuresto the M-DAC, it would also appear to be unable to resolve a feed with too much jitter. Can you not return the unit as unfit for purpose? Have you tried the digital out from a DVD player or CD?
 
Do you have proper voltage to the unit? That is also a know problem with some Audiolab products.
It could also be a crystal that is not working properly, and that needs replacing.

Your store should help you sort this out.
 
lordsummit said:
I had an M-DAC. I don't quibble about its performance, but I fed it with an Airport Express. It was incapable of using the digital output of the most recent one due to excess jitter regardless of setting. I had to set up an aged AE to make it work. This issue is well documented with the M-DAC, there was another thread not too long ago about someone not being able to make their television talk to the DAC. Your unit features a similar chipet and featuresto the M-DAC, it would also appear to be unable to resolve a feed with too much jitter. Can you not return the unit as unfit for purpose? Have you tried the digital out from a DVD player or CD?
Click to expand...
Dear lordsummit,
Thanks for your reply,
Running my My-One with a CD player through the optical connection is one of the things that I should try to find out the problem. But unfortunately i don’t own any player.
By the way, if I explore that the problem is with the excess jitter of my Sony android tv at which I listen music via Tidal app, the problem exactly will start for me then, because it was very practical for me listening and streaming music via my smart tv (I also use netflix app on it).
Someone in the forum had solved the similar problem by changing the cable, someone by changing either the TV’s or dac unit’s settings, someone by updating the dac’s software.. I have tried all of these, but useless:(

What remains for me?
1- Trying a CD player as you advise
2- Trying an optical cable designed for hifi devices (the expensive ones)

First of all, I will look for a way to find a CD player.
 
Obi1 said:
Do you have proper voltage to the unit? That is also a know problem with some Audiolab products.
It could also be a crystal that is not working properly, and that needs replacing.

Your store should help you sort this out.
Click to expand...
Dear Obi1,
Thank you so much for your reply,

I had called an electrician and he had entirely checked the electrical issue including the grounding, voltage etc. and he said eveything electrical is allright both with my device and my building.

As you know my M-One sometimes works and sometimes does not work. Is this instability possible if there is something wrong with the crystal? I don’t have any idea about what a crystal does and what it is.
I mean, can my device work properly in case of a crystal failure? (Because it sometimes works)
And may you tell me what causes crystal failure?
Thanks a lot..
 
dr35 said:
Dear lordsummit,
Thanks for your reply,
Running my My-One with a CD player through the optical connection is one of the things that I should try to find out the problem. But unfortunately i don’t own any player.
By the way, if I explore that the problem is with the excess jitter of my Sony android tv at which I listen music via Tidal app, the problem exactly will start for me then, because it was very practical for me listening and streaming music via my smart tv (I also use netflix app on it).
Someone in the forum had solved the similar problem by changing the cable, someone by changing either the TV’s or dac unit’s settings, someone by updating the dac’s software.. I have tried all of these, but useless:(

What remains for me?
1- Trying a CD player as you advise
2- Trying an optical cable designed for hifi devices (the expensive ones)

First of all, I will look for a way to find a CD player.
Click to expand...

I think that’s the route I’d take, either hat or taking it back. Five months is a long time to live with a piece of kit that doesn’t work
 
lordsummit said:
I think that’s the route I’d take, either hat or taking it back. Five months is a long time to live with a piece of kit that doesn’t work
Click to expand...
Actually I have been facing this problem for 15 or 20 days. In addition to this, unlocking issue began to be more often day by day since I bought my device. This unlocking issue was very very rare at the first days when I purchased my unit.
Anyway, I plan trying a few more things to solve the issue. If I can not achieve, I will deal with the store;)

Best regards
 
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