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Audio grade components ( capacitors, etc,)

Sid and Coke

and so the rebuild continues..
I had a minor problem yesterday after powering down and moving my Musical Fidelity X-Can. Basically it kept blowing the fuse in my PSU. After taking it briefly apart , re-seating the valves and shouting and swearing at it very loudly, it seemed to start working agai. I was using it this afternoon with no problems ( it was sounding loads and loads better than my Rotel Pre's Headphone jack ).
I had been meaning to do some mods to my X-Can, especially after seeing the stuff on Pinky Floyds website and exchanging a few e-mails a while ago. Work and my Exams got in the way and i never got around to doing any mods. Now i have some spare time and i wouldn't mind giving the mods a go, especially as the X-Can did have an un-known but very real problem yesterday. ( I can even justify fiddling about with capacitors as they are in the syllabus for my exam re-sit )

First of all let me say this; I really like the sound of my X-Can, despite what others may say about it or the brand in general. To this end i feel it is worth my while trying to get even more pleasure from it by trying out some mods. I bought it as part of a fairly cheap s/h package a long time ago, with a pair of Senn HD580's. i managed to get a fair few quid for the Senn's after selling them on recently. I now consider the X-Can as a freebie, so basically it's here to stay. ( until i get a cutie Creek )

My main reason for posting is that there is a bewildering amont of capacitors , etc, out there. Some are reputed to be better than others. Having read several posts on these boards and others there seems to be a bit of discussion on which ones are best. Some of the brands/models that keep cropping up are , Elna Cerrafine, Silmics and Stargets, Panasonic FC's, Black Gate and Rubycon . After looking at all of the obvious online places to buy these i note that there is a large price range, some of the Black Gates in particular are very expensive.

Looking at RichardH's bulk buy thread it would seem that these 'Audio Grade' caps can be bought cheaply if bought in bulk.
Why do the Manufacturers not do this ? Why is it that keen DIYers seem to be able to say they get more from the equipment than the manufacturer by changing a few relatively cheap components ?
The Caps inside my X-Can are made by Teapo, ( cheapo-teapo ?? :D ). It was also suggested to change the 2 opamps over to BurrBrown's, from the Phillips items that are fitted. RS have the correct model of OpAmps , but they only stock Texas Instrument ones now , are these any good ?

I did try a half Mod by changing the Valves a few months ago, I followed some instructions on another website and fitted a mactched pair of JJ Electrics , I can't honestly say I noticed that much of an improvement (OK i didn't notice any at all !!). One channel of the X-Can badly distorted a few weeks ago , changing back to the original stock Phillips valves fixed the snag, the JJ Electrics are now in a landfill somewhere. Would a pair of the famous Mullards do anything for me ? Its a few quid for a maybe and although I'm keen to try , i'm not willing to just waste money.

Sorry about the length of this post , i kinda got carried away but;

1) What capacitors would you recommend , would any on my coloured list above do the job ?
2) Is changing the Valves a good plan , mine have a few miles on them now.
3) would the Tex Inst OP Amp be an upgrade to the stock phillips as I can't get the Burr Browns.
4) where is a good place to buy all this stuff. I'm looking at RS components so far , but Farnell seem to have all the right models of Panasonic FC's.

As usual any constructive comments or pointers will be greatly appreciated.

(Edited for most of the typo, punctuation , spelling and grammer mistakes).
 
I use an X-Can v2, bought s/h after reading all the reviews I could find on the internet etc. These all said roughly the same thing: BIN THE STOCK VALVES! Well, I thought, lets give it a go first...let it warm up, plugged in my HD25sp's (work headphones) and lo and behold, at anything louder than "off" it was horrendously harsh.

Time to change the valves then? Damn right! I swapped first to a pair of used Colomor ECC88's, which sounded much nicer...a bit too rolled off in fact. No microphony though...

I now run it with a pair of NOS Mullards (sound great, but slightly annoying microphony, and audible noise between songs) and an X-PSU, with Sennheiser HD580's, and I'm happy for now.

It packed up once though - I opened it up, and found that one of the large capacitors had "inflated" as if it had failed :eek: and pulled itself out of the pcb tracks!!!! Even more suprising, I soldered it back in place, and it worked again!!!:D

I'm now thinking of upgrading to the X-Can V3, or maybe the Naim Headline/Napsc... Anyone tried these?
 
HI Smee,
Thanks for the input. I was running a X-PSU/X-Can v1/HD580 combo earlier on this year. I sold the X-PSU after very extensive listening tests and A-B demo's , Kudos/pride of ownership only, just couldn't justify its continued use in my system as i felt it did absolutley nothing at all sonically. I sold it for £165 ! making a small profit of £10 from my initial outlay , a real bonus for the experience gained. ( ie Now I Know ...).

My HD580's although very good, if i had to be picky, where just tad laid back for my tastes but i happily lived with them.The biggest problem with them was the sound leakage outwards , which was huge . That doesn't mean to say i won't swoop down and 'vulture in' on a pair of Mint/New HD600's when all of the 'Joneses' upgrade to HD650's. They will need to be very sub £100 first though.

I see you use SP25's closed backs. I went over to Beyer DT150's closed backs, not quite as 'breathy' as the Senns, but excellent all rounders none the less, Good frequency extremes with bags of mid bass for Dance/Rock. The Beyers are as ugly as sin and very industrial looking, being a 'Pro' headphone. One of my kids noticed that the pop idols where all wearing them in the studio recording scenes on Saturday, luckily i couldn't hear the telly as i was listening to some records "Look Mum, Dad thinks he's a pop idol" ( all burst out laughing at me )... you get the picture.

One of your Caps , 'inflated', hmm, sounds like it's seen a little too much voltage from somewhere, i doubt that it still has the same capacitance rating now , i think i might have been inclined to change it altogether, just in case it causes problems further down the line.

I know what you mean about a little noise during quiet passages, I get that too , but it is not obtrusive and disappears completely when the music gets just slightly louder.

Anyway i digress..
I'm Still looking for informed opinions about my choice of upgrade caps, etc..
 
Burr Brown is a division/brand of Texas Instruments. The TI opamp will be the same as the Burr Brown one.

You missed out Sanyo OSCons (good for decoupling.) (IE between the supply pins of your opamps. Different types of capacitor are good for different things and saying "swap all the caps for Black Gates" for example, might not be the best advice.
 
Sid,

This is a tricky one, since recommendations for components have to be application specific.

The first starting point really should be a schematic, or as a minimum a clear picture of exactly where each capacitor is used.

As a rule of thumb, sonic performance is almost always dominated by the 'worst' components in a device. For example, event he cheapest of resistors are very linear and introduce distortions at very low levels.

The worst components are electrolytic and polarised capacitors (including tantalums) followed by active devices, in most cases.

Sometimes substituting a 'better' component can make things worse, if you don't understand what is going on (e.g. Oscons are good for PSU decoupling, but connect them directly at the output of a regulator and chances are it will sound, and measure, worse if you measure the right things.

If one understands what is happening you can use these components, but may have to add others in order to prevent problems.

Fancy drawing a schematic, it can't be that complicated a unit?

Andy.
 
X-Can problems.

I currently own 2 MF X-Ponents namely an X-Can v1 headphone amp and a X-LPs phono stage. The Phono stage is practically brand new , the X-Can was bought s/h and is of unknown vintage. Both of the units are kept permanently powered up. At a very simple level of observation I can power the X-LPs from either the supplied wallwart or my DIY PSU and nothing strange happens, the Fuses stay intact and the power on LED shines bright and stable. The older X-Can is slightly different in its behaviour. If i power it fron the Wall wart everything seems to be OK. this unit doesn't have a fuse though , i pe resume it just has a thermal cut out. If i power the X-Can from my DIY Psu it will blow a 1 amp slo-blo fuse ( 35 amp peak) , it is OK with a 3.15 A fuse fitted. When i initially power it up the transformer makes a kind off buzzzing vibrating noise and then settles down. The X-Can power-on LED seems to be quite dull and i sometimes think i can see 'ripples' within it, The unit also seems to be running a little hotter than i remeber from when i first got it ( I knew the Temp range on my new DMM would come in handy one day ;) ). Basically it just doesn't seem to be behaving itself at the moment. I just figured that giving it a bit of a winter flu jab of some new caps and maybe a couple of new valves would be a good move.

Given that i have already had to bin a couple of valves already due to a malfunction. I'm not sure whether the valves where just rubbish valves (JJ Electric EE88C ) or whether something else in the circuit is making the valves go bad. I have noticed that whilst looking into getting new valves some of them state they have lives of 6000 hours, thats less then 8 months if powered up all the time. Should i be turning this thing off between use ?

I see that Pinky has also done a mod whereby he has ventilated the closed case to aid cooling. I think i'll be doing a bit of drilling at work tonight if we're not too busy. I'll get some mesh from B&Q this afternoon to protect the holes.

I can see that different caps will be of better use in different parts of the Circuit, as for mapping out the circuit board, although it may look like fun, i think i'll try to get hold of the proper job first.
Blindly bumbling along, changing a few components along the way, to see if they make any improvements , based on bits and pieces i pick up on the www is where i'm at at the moment. I think that if some other DIYers where being honest they do pretty much the same, sometimes...

Just looking at the electronic components on the circuit board, nothing actually looks like it is overheating or faulty, ie no smell of burning, swollen capacitors, discoloured resistors , etc. maybe it something as simple as my Valves are just comming to the end of their useful life ..?
 
You'll only manage to squeeze 2 x 35v 1000uF Cerafines into the X-can and I doubt if you'd manage to get a black gate in at all due to the size of them so don't waste money ordering them.

The Panasonic FC's make a vast improvement to the sound quality and they are affordable. I recently had a word with a technician at Musical Fidelity who told me that he had replaced the 6 x 1000uF with 6 x 2200uF minature caps. He reckons you are better fitting higher capacitance caps in the PSU circuit than simply "swapping" the existing caps with different ones as the higher capacitance brings about better bass delivery etc. etc.

He fitted these to his X-can and claims the increase in performance is "astonishing" I suggest you have a word with him via telephone, he's extremely informative and welcomes questions from tweakers........ he's not one of the "sorry but if you open your unit you invalidate your warranty" merchants. Call Musical Fidelity and ask to be transferred to their "technical department" and be sure to have a pen and paper ready cause this guy gives out a lot of "very" useful info.

As to Valves........ I found the JJ electronic valves to sound absolutely dire in the V2 (and I tested 3 pairs from 3 different batches) The Mullards are great but are in very short supply at the moment, if you want a really nice sounding valve go for the Sovtek 6922 available from http://www.highendaudio.co.uk £20 for a matched pair. Contact Sean Redshaw at [email protected] he's a great guy and very helpful which is a change from the usual audio boutique rip off merchants. I believe he's getting a new line of electroharmoniks valves so they may be worth a try also. let him know that "Mike" pointed you in his direction and he'll look after you :)

Op amps........ The 5532's can be replaced with OPA 2132 / OPA 2227 / OPA 2228 / OPA 2134 / OPA 2107 / OPA 2111 / OPA 2604.
I replaced the 5532's with a pair of OPA 2134's with very good results, you can see the details at http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/Neilxcan2.htm I can supply any of the above op amps at cheaper prices than RS ;-) If you "are" going to replace the op amps be sure to fit 2 x turned pin DIL sockets (RS part number 813-115) which will make op amp rolling easy and will also prevent you from burning the arse out of the op amp when you're soldering it in place. You're best to cut the old op amps from the top of the board first when removing them and then desolder the legs from the bottom of the board using desoldering wick, the pads are very easy to lift but this method ensures minimal risk.

Hope this has been of help!

Pinkie.
 
...Sid - also remember that Farnell stock the Panasonic FCs, and delivery is free for orders over £10.
 
Hi Richard,

That case is an absolute b*stard to drill isn't it? (the Italian job) cutting out the IEC filter hole took me 45 minutes!!

Mike.
 
Oh, you've got one have you Mike? It's a bit of a pig, but I thought the front/rear panels were at least fairly soft aluminium. I drilled corner holes then cut between then with a Wizard (Black & Decker Dremel copy). Lots of nasty aluminium dust.

It's the scary front panel (getting things in the right place) that got me. These cone shaped drill bits are really handy for getting holes the right size.

R
 
Thanks for the inputs guys,
I'm back on my 'nights on' now but ALL of the suggestions so far have given me plenty to think about.
Richard watch them 'christmas trees' as we call them in the sheet metal world, don't wander too much when you're drilling, you can end up with egg shaped holes if not careful. I'll be using a stepped version at work tonight on my X-Can can , all being well.

Lots of nasty aluminium dust.
A very good 'sheety' friend of mine was working at Coventry Airport a few years ago on a Douglas DC-3 (Dakota), these are disolvable aircraft, being almost entirely made of Magnesium alloy. His overalls where almost completely covered in fine mag alloy dust, whilst having a smoke during a break he must have got a spark on the dust and had a 1 second flash fire when the Magnesium took alight. I always give my overalls a good shake and blast with the airline when dealing with this stuff now !

...Sid - also remember that Farnell stock the Panasonic FCs, and delivery is free for orders over £10.

Wouldn't it be good if you could get all the best bits that you need in just one place ? You doing a X-Can mod kit yet Pinkie ;)
 
Oh well that is the ventilation holes drilled , so theres no going back now. The other guy who i was working with tonight pitched up with the PSU board of his DVD player in a bag. The top off a small 8 pin DIL had completely blown off ! I think that the unit is a Mosfet Amplifier. We spent an age surfing trying to find out what the thing was and where we could get one from. The last place we looked just happened to be Farnell, and they had the unit in stock. It was only £2.11 though so looks like i'll have to buy some bits from there just to help my mate out.
Catch you later I'm off to bed.........
 
Originally posted by RichardH
Oh, you've got one have you Mike? It's a bit of a pig, but I thought the front/rear panels were at least fairly soft aluminium. I drilled corner holes then cut between then with a Wizard (Black & Decker Dremel copy). Lots of nasty aluminium dust.

It's the scary front panel (getting things in the right place) that got me. These cone shaped drill bits are really handy for getting holes the right size.

R

That's her ready to go now and looking very smart too if I may say so :D

http://www4.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=613366#post613366
 
Finally got around to starting my Christmas/New Year project modding and hopefully hot rodding my MF X-Can Version 1, headphone amplifier. Itbwas actually sounding quite good the other day in its standard trim , lets hope I Can get some more out of it. Especially given the total price of spare parts it has cost me so far ! Yet Again credit to Pinky for sparking the idea in the first place- cheers Mike !
Here's the Link more piccies to follow in due course:
Sid and Cokes X-Can X-perience

Oh yeah it's Christmas Day, well the end of Christams Eve all my little flock are tucked up in bed and I've just finished wrapping my wifes last christmas pressie and i'm off to bed .
Merry Christmas One and all , hope you have a great holiday and New Year too !
 
Originally posted by Sid and Coke
Finally got around to starting my Christmas/New Year project modding and hopefully hot rodding my MF X-Can Version 1, headphone amplifier. Itbwas actually sounding quite good the other day in its standard trim , lets hope I Can get some more out of it. Especially given the total price of spare parts it has cost me so far ! Yet Again credit to Pinky for sparking the idea in the first place- cheers Mike !
Here's the Link more piccies to follow in due course:
Sid and Cokes X-Can X-perience

Oh yeah it's Christmas Day, well the end of Christams Eve all my little flock are tucked up in bed and I've just finished wrapping my wifes last christmas pressie and i'm off to bed .
Merry Christmas One and all , hope you have a great holiday and New Year too !

Nice job Sid! I was going to mesh my holes but the guy who owned the X-Can preferred open holes so he could touch the valves to measure their heat output. I'm contemplating attaching a mini fan to the outside of the rear hole which should suck hot air out nicely :D The valves are pretty cool without a fan and you can touch them and keep your finger on them for ages (lukewarm) so a fan is probably overkill.

Merry Christmas

Mike.
 
Hi Mike,
I wouldn't bother with a fan, it might look trick but i don't reckon there is any need at all. I removed the top rear screw of mine and inserted a thermocouple lead down the innner, upper, centre groove/channel. i put the probe right in the centre of the unit and it only measured about 52 DegC even after a couple of hours of playing at normal listening levels. With the ventilation holes cut the Unit does creep up to about 48 DegC , i think this is due to heat soak of the metal case, if you put the temp probe in the centre of one of the holes it is cooler again. I reckon that the ventilation holes on their own will be enough to get some decent airflow around the circuit boards. A fan may be too noisy too ?

Any suggestions for a nice fancy replacement 'power on' LED for when the job is finished , i fancy a nice (yawn) blue one, i know they have been around for while now, and everything has them fitted but they still look pretty cool :cool: , Violet/Purple would be good too.

I have already asked this elsewhere, but can i just measure the voltage accross the LED connections and then buy a suitably sized one of the correct voltage ? Blue maybe so yesterday but red is positively ancient !
 
Hi Sid - I notice Mike suggests a diode across the blue LED to stop it blowing - http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/tweaks.htm

Re brightness - you'll probably find that the LED will be too bright, so a resistor in series to drop it down to a more pleasant level is a good idea. The way to work it out is using good old V=IR. Then, if the supply voltage is (say) 5v, and the new LED needs only 2, then you need to drop 3 extra volts over the resistor (though I think you'll find you want to drop more to stop it being too bright). Anyway, say the LED draws 20mA, that's 0.02A. So, the resistor required to drop the 3 volts will be:

R = V/I
R = 3/0.02 = 150 Ohms.

This is only an example, remember! Also, I'm not sure if the diode will affect the voltage drop at all.

HTH
 
Hi Richard,
I see the link, but it seems to be for the Chiara amplifier mods/tweaks :confused: .

Basically all I'm trying to do is replace an already existing red LED on my MF X-can with one of a different colour. No real reason other than to have a play with it and also denote to anybody that may care to notice that it has been ' Tweaked' in more ways than one. A bit of self indulgence really ( as if i haven't had enough over the last 2 days:D ). I presume that the Blue LEDs just have different doping materials for the colour compared to the more usual Red one that is fitted as standard ?? The Blue LED on my sons Sony PS2 is just what I'm after ( ;) ).

I'm not too bothered about it, i just reckon it would be a good finishing touch. I don't really like the idea of adding resistors or meddling about with the amount of current required in that small part of the circuit, just in case it effects something else.
 
There's a bit on Mike's page with a blue LED thingy, showing it needing a diode across it - Mike mailed me and asked if I'd added the diode across the blue LED I put onto the Chiarra I built for a friend. I hadn't, and Mike warned me that apparently blue LEDs can blow if they don't have the protection of a diode. This is irrespective of whether it's a Chiarra or XCan. I'm not sure, and to be honest the LED I used is still running happily without the diode - perhaps someone else can throw light on this.

Anyway, the other bit remains valid re determining a resistor to drop the voltage to the right level - you may find a blue LED will drop straight in, but I'll bet it'll be rather too bright for comfort, so you might like to experiment witrh some resistors.

Happy tinkering!
 
Hi Folks,

The suggestion that I fit an IN4003 diode across the blue LED was from Shaun Williams of Williams Hart Audio. He reckons that it's necessary to prevent return EMF from blowing the LED "The LED may not blow instantly but without the diode it's lifespan is decreased considerably"

I dunno about this but I soldered a diode across the legs of the LED and it works fine :) It may also be of interest that the LED Holder Shaun supplied is the type that subdues the glare (has a protruding chrome shroud) and unless you look at the LED "head on" the intensity of light is very subdued. Look at it head on, however, and it'll blind you :D I tried a 330R and found it a good resistor to use in the Chiarra application.

I've uploaded some new sketches to http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/tweaks.htm which show how to connect the diode.

Richard, can you confirm that my diagrams for connecting the Hi and variable are correct? especially with regard to pads 1 & 2. From the manual that's how I perceive them but I may have got my wires crossed :eek:

I've also drawn a diagram which will hopefully make connecting the power easier to understand as the manual leaves a lot to be desired in this department. All those "tiny" holes can be confusing to a first time Chiarra builder :)

All the best.

Mike.

PS: You can see the LED holder here: http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/chiarra2.htm
 


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