I remember years ago arriving in Jerusalem late, dusk falling, starving, I’d come overland from Cairo. I had a hotel somewhere in the new city and after checking in walked down towards the old, towards Jaffa gate. Just before the walls of the old city was this restaurant and for some reason I decided to chance it. I will remember one dish all my life it was so special, just slices of baked aubergine and the most extraordinary walnut sauce. I’ve tried many times to find recipes for a similar walnut sauce, never succeeded.
In London, before covid, I would eat at Beirut Express and Maroush in South Kensington and Beauchamp Place very often, Lebanese food. They would do wonderful drinks, fruit cocktails they call them. Years ago when I was at Imperial we used to use an Iranian restaurant, but it’s hard for me to do at home - I don’t know how to use the pomegranate juice which is so central to their cooking. Even basic things like Moutabal are hard for me - charing the aubergine skin.
The one thing I do make successfully is Tabouleh. I was told the secret by an Algerian friend. You add no liquid to the grains to soften them - all the work is done by the juices of the tomatoes and the cucumber. That way it is as light as a feather. The only thing I hate about it is chopping all the mint.
