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Advice... returning back to cycling.

I have got 10 speed Chorus on my road bike and like it a lot. One thing Campy has in its favour is that its 100 times nicer to look at than shimano, which keeps getting uglier with every new iteration. No need to upgrade to the latest version every 3 years when all they do is add an extra cog.
 
Tony's experience obviously has nothing to do with the frame of his bicycle.

My intention wasn’t to derail the thread making the point, but the choice is between a material that on impact shatters and cracks into razor-sharp splinters and slithers, and one that doesn’t. You’ve made your choice, I’ve made mine, and hopefully others will be able to form their opinion with just a little more information than they would have done otherwise.
 
I think BB30 is just wrong.

I suspect Vittoria would be perfect in every way on different roads. Here the pair I had were great for a couple of hundred miles until I touched a stone in the wrong way and the rear exploded.

I've had good experiences with Continental, particularly Competition Tubulars, and GP4000. The compounds and construction seem reasonably resistant to the types of stones we get in the UK.

But tyres are disposable and everybody has different experiences and preferences.
 
My intention wasn’t to derail the thread making the point, but the choice is between a material that on impact shatters and cracks into razor-sharp splinters and slithers, and one that doesn’t. You’ve made your choice, I’ve made mine, and hopefully others will be able to form their opinion with just a little more information than they would have done otherwise.
People like titanium, I have no opinion since I've never had a titanium frame, but I think your unfortunate experience wouldn't have been significantly different on a good carbon frame. Either way the frame would have been trashed, and you'd have been injured.

A good heuristic here is the many multiple high speed pile ups in professional racing resulting in many broken frames and some injuries, yet the rarity of injuries caused by the broken frames. If it were a thing then the UCI would regulate, as they did with early carbon spoked wheels. The frames get broken because bodies fall on them, so it seems a reasonable analogy.

Anyway the OP seems to be on a path to happiness.
 
Metal tubes just fold from side impacts its inherently less risky than carbon from a contact pov. But carbon will fail at a higher loading. I'd be happy with either material.

Re press fit Bb's, they suck unless you have a colleted cup design like Praxis have. And that's based on working for a bike manufacturer. Lower lifespan, higher warranty, loads of squeaks. I'll take a well tapped and faced bsa bb every day of the week.
 
My personal experience with sram bb86 press fit over 50,000 km is very good. No creaks or funny noises, easy to replace and bearings last about 20,000km before needing replacement.

I would say that one shouldn’t be put off by a frame that has a press fit BB.
 
I have got 10 speed Chorus on my road bike and like it a lot. One thing Campy has in its favour is that its 100 times nicer to look at than shimano, which keeps getting uglier with every new iteration. No need to upgrade to the latest version every 3 years when all they do is add an extra cog.
Funny that as I actually prefer the look of Shimano & I believe Campag introduced 11 speed first. I could be wrong.
 
My intention wasn’t to derail the thread making the point, but the choice is between a material that on impact shatters and cracks into razor-sharp splinters and slithers, and one that doesn’t. You’ve made your choice, I’ve made mine, and hopefully others will be able to form their opinion with just a little more information than they would have done otherwise.
It's a very fair point. Carbon is a very versatile material as it can be designed to be strong in different directions. BB area will have a different lay-up to the forks, funnily enough the forks are probably the most vulnerable part. Kinesis had to do a big recall recently on their carbon forks. I've had two friends hit by cars in last 12 months, both riding carbon, the frames cracked but didn't shatter.
 
My personal experience with sram bb86 press fit over 50,000 km is very good. No creaks or funny noises, easy to replace and bearings last about 20,000km before needing replacement.

I would say that one shouldn’t be put off by a frame that has a press fit BB.
I thought BB86 was for Shimano? Don't Sram work on a BB30? It gets very confusing as the frame designers decide on BB standard & the poor old consumer has to work round it. Either way you can get round it.
 
Sram has bb86 or bb30 options.

There is also a new sram standard with the 12 speed groupset called DUB.
 
Funny that as I actually prefer the look of Shimano & I believe Campag introduced 11 speed first. I could be wrong.


Looks are personal preference of course. Dura Ace was stunning in the 80s and 90s, but still the Campy of the day was nicer looking. I think both are as bad as each other with the endless strategy of adding an extra cog every three years to make the whole drivetrain obsolete.
 
@Tony L sorry to hear about your accident, the damage to your bike and you. It is never easy getting back onto a bike especially when you realise how vulnerable you are especially when idiots decide to take you out. I've had three bad accidents whilst training and only minor ones in comparison when racing. I'm not sure how I would "bounce" if at all if I were to be wiped out today.

This morning I've been out in terrible conditions, with heavy rain, high winds and even a bit of thunder and lightening thrown in for good measure, and guess what I bloody loved it. Came back soaked and knackered, watched some rugby and now planning to open a bottle of red for this evening. All is good with the World.

I'd like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread as it has helped me clarify my thinking.

After spending quite a bit of time last night chatting to a pal in Oz who has also returned back to cycling and is now competing against Strava, I'm down to three bikes. Each vastly different from each other!

At the moment its either a Look 795 Blade - but not sure if to go disk or rim brakes, the Open Upper, a gravel bike that with some careful fitting out can be used off and on road and the late entry a 3T Strada 1x.

As far as I can see the Look 795 Blade is pure road... and nothing much else. With the Open Upper I have the potential to ride road, tow paths, gravel, Hors category climbs etc... all with the change of wheels and gearing. The 3T Strada got a massive vote from my pal in Oz as he rides one - one that is fully spec'd with SRAM 1x.

I've checked out the 3T and it is pretty radical and seems to polarise opinions re. 1x for road use and i quite like the idea of riding something a little off the wall.

On a different matter the pub bike has taken a major leap forward this afternoon. I have pulled out an old battered NJS Keiren frame that was in the loft. I've given it a quick once over and it looks in decent shape, no forks but I'm sure I can source some fairly easily. I also found some Suntour large flange track hub (bearings a bit rough), a decent Cinelli stem and a pair of Mavic GP4 rims. Pub bike is progressing.
 
Dub is just smaller bearings that can be made to fit almost any bb shell. A really bad idea.
 
Looks are personal preference of course. Dura Ace was stunning in the 80s and 90s, but still the Campy of the day was nicer looking. I think both are as bad as each other with the endless strategy of adding an extra cog every three years to make the whole drivetrain obsolete.
Yes, I think the hood shape is nicer on Campag but prefer the utility of Shimano. Each to their own as you say.
 
I think both are as bad as each other with the endless strategy of adding an extra cog every three years to make the whole drivetrain obsolete.

My 22 speed Ultegra somewhat annoys me. I really can’t be arsed with having that dual position nonsense on the front shifter where you have to click it part way depending of what end of the cassette you are at. I’d happily swap for a 7 or 8 cassette as long as the ratios were as wide top to bottom. I tend to shift in twos anyway, so I’d probably be perfectly happy with an old-school ten-speed (dual front, five rear) as long as the extremes were the same (some steep hills around here!). I’m not a competitive cyclist in any context though.
 
My 22 speed Ultegra somewhat annoys me. I really can’t be arsed with having that dual position nonsense on the front shifter where you have to click it part way depending of what end of the cassette you are at. I’d happily swap for a 7 or 8 cassette as long as the ratios were as wide top to bottom. I tend to shift in twos anyway, so I’d probably be perfectly happy with an old-school ten-speed (dual front, five rear) as long as the extremes were the same (some steep hills around here!). I’m not a competitive cyclist in any context though.


You need Di2 where it does all that (and more) for you. I am loving the auto shifting where you just pick up or down and it sorts the two ends out for you. Also hold it down and it shifts fast up or down continuously. Great thing
 
My 22 speed Ultegra somewhat annoys me. I really can’t be arsed with having that dual position nonsense on the front shifter where you have to click it part way depending of what end of the cassette you are at. I’d happily swap for a 7 or 8 cassette as long as the ratios were as wide top to bottom. I tend to shift in twos anyway, so I’d probably be perfectly happy with an old-school ten-speed (dual front, five rear) as long as the extremes were the same (some steep hills around here!). I’m not a competitive cyclist in any context though.
Only real purpose of 11 speed is to give you a larger bail out cog while keeping the jumps manageable. Re ultegra it depends which version you have, the last two iterations have not suffered with this but the one before wasn't great & shift quality was very poor IMHO.
 
Re ultegra it depends which version you have, the last two iterations have not suffered with this but the one before wasn't great & shift quality was very poor IMHO.

6800 on current bike, 6700 on the one that went under the van.

PS I’ve still got some bits of 6700 that survived the crash entirely intact in a box that I should really think about selling, both shifters and both brakes are unmarked. Surprising in the case of the shifters as the left side of the bars took the initial big hit.
 
6800 on current bike, 6700 on the one that went under the van.

PS I’ve still got some bits of 6700 that survived the crash entirely intact in a box that I should really think about selling, both shifters and both brakes are unmarked. Surprising in the case of the shifters as the left side of the bars took the initial big hit.
I think it's 6700 that wasn't so great. I have the latest ultegra on my current best bike it really is excellent, direct mount brakes are very impressive.
 


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