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Advice making Linn Kan II active

M

moebiusband

Member
Hi,

I am about to make my beloved Linn Kan II active. I already removed the grill and the driver units (one tweeter plastic ring was broken). Then I wanted to remove the crossover and realized that the crossover is almost one unit with the terminal posts. I am unsure how to proceed. The terminal rods seem to be soldered to the crossover and I do not want to destroy the crossover. I searched the internet for similar terminals but did not find any. I would need 4mm Banana sockets with 8mm rods and more than 25mm long. Another option would be to keep the crossover in the box and solder the new cables from the drivers directly to the terminal rods. But I fear that a part of the crossover is active. There is continuity between +/- of each driver terminal pair. I guess a capacitor in between. Also can you recommend what cable to use for internal wiring inside the speakers? Linn used standard 2.5mm2 flexible hookup wires.

Any help is highly appriciated.

Jan
 
Hi Jan,
The 4 sockets are soldered to the pcb before the xover is fitted inside the cab.
If you remove the 4 nuts on the rear of the cab and the self tapping screw(s) which hold the pcb inside the cab then the xover will remove.
I would stick with the 2.5mm internal wire as it does not cause problems with the poor kef b110 terminals
 
Hi,

thanks for your answer. I already removed a crossover as you described. Should I desolder the sockets from the crossover PCB?

Jan
 
I would use the originals as they are custom made for linn and finding others to fill the hole and be airtight will be a problem.

They will just about desolder using 2 normal size irons together.
 
It has been quite a number of years since I did my pair, but basically as described above. Remove crossover board, unsolder speaker sockets from board and re-use them. If I recall, I bought some nice ring terminals that fit the socket posts, and soldered the existing driver wiring to the ring terminals. Tightened everything up, put it all back together.

Certainly the beauty of using the Kan 2 is having 4 speaker sockets already there, and the whole thing can be taken back to passive later if desired with no fuss. Although I wouldn't want to go back to passive once you hear them active. I used a slightly tweaked SBL Snaxo/Hicap with Nac 82/Supercap and pair of Nap 250's. Was a lovely thing in that active Kan way.

Was a fun project for the time.
 
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