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Active Sara Project

jimmymcfarrell

pfm Member
Having had ARC speakers and active Nytech (CTA252 / CXA252) & A&R Cambridge (A60 / SA60) amplifiers in the past & sold (and regretted it) the amps but kept the speakers; I recently started again, first with a Crown D-60 amp (passive) then added a DBX Electronic crossover & a couple of (bridged mono) D-75s giving a sound that I prefer to what’s gone before; I’ve been looking for other options to make use of this kit. And got a bit carried away.
I’m now the owner of 2 pairs of Linn Sara’s. The first pair are too nice to mess around with (despite having one concentric circle Hiquiphon & one “Linn” plain black tweeter) so I bought a cheap pair that are supposed to be broken with a view to converting to tri-amp active operation. The seller thought the bass drivers were shot but it’s actually the tweeters. And the glue on one of the rubber surrounds on one of the internal bass drivers has dried out making a tiny section come unstuck. Can this be glued with rubber solution?

I’ve got the front baffles off both & got all the drivers / crossovers out. Trying to post pics but Flickr won’t give me a link (using an iPhone). Plan is to replace the tweeters with new Scanspeak D2008s like I’ve fitted to my ARC 101s as these Sara’s have these teeeters in at the moment. Hopefully repair the one unglued surround. Then I need to decide what input sockets I’m going to use (pairs x3 unless I use XLRs) and how’s best to mount them on the cabinet- directly through the wood or on some sort of metal/Perspex sheet. Finally give the cabinet woodwork some love & hope by then I’ve found a 4th D-75amp (so each bass driver can have its own bridged mono amplifier - but if not I’ve got more than enough to run them the amps stereo so each mid-bass driver will have its own amplifier channel as a minimum. How do I connect more than one amp to an output of the crossover? Will need Y connectors I guess as the amps don’t have a pass through. Final stage is to add a 2nd active crossover so I can crossover the rear bass drivers at a lower frequency to the fronts to see if this does indeed make a difference - will still need Y connectors because in this instance I’ll be connecting 2 crossovers to the one output on my pre-amp.
Hopefully by then I’ll have worked out how to get Flickr to let me upload photos to this and will update it as I go. Should be fun & keep me out of trouble for a bit.
 
The tricky bit will be maintaining phase linearity between the bass drivers whilst having different filter characteristics.
 
Oh, I did all the work in that thread (well, the majority of it anyway) - if you have any questions just ask.

And yes, gunner solution should glue the errant roll surround.

Yes it was that thread that gave me the impetus to do this.

They’re apart. If only FLICKR would let me link pics on an iPhone. Came apart reasonably easily actually.

Previous monkey owner that thought he’d blown the B200s has been poking around in them. The B200s are fine apart from one surround lifting so he’s wasted his time AND for some strange reason he’s removed the “pillows” from the chamber behind the front bass driver. I’m sure there’s meant to be something in there but completely empty with just remnants of where something used to be stuck. Any suggestions how I can replicate this. He’s done it to both speakers too. God knows why. And I can’t find any pics to show me what it’s meant to look like.
 
The bass drivers share a middle cavity so a lower xo point on the back driver will affect how it presses air against the front driver giving a weird compound loading.
 
When I refurbished/modified my friend Andrew’s Sara’s I didn’t actually remove either of the mid/bass drivers from the front baffle moulding as they were working fine. However, I have had to replace a Sara driver in the past and have seen inside the moulded driver space. The filling is really very neatly done and consists of a number of, wool filled, hessian pillows that are stuck around the perimeter.
 
The filling is really very neatly done and consists of a number of, wool filled, hessian pillows that are stuck around the perimeter.

It couldn’t have been your thread where I saw a pic with the front driver removed then. Shouldn’t be too hard to replicate then?
 
The bass drivers share a middle cavity so a lower xo point on the back driver will affect how it presses air against the front driver giving a weird compound loading.

Maybe not worth trying then. If I didn’t have to buy another xover it would be something to try with nothing to loose. But if it’s gonna cause problems maybe not worth the outlay. Only suggested it as read that’s something that’d be an improvement on Sara’s. Probably wasn’t based in any fact just someone’s guess work. Perhaps I could try it on one speaker only if I could get my active crossover to put out the right freq’s in 3way mode.
 
As far as I can recall, Linn never made an active ready version of the Sara and so nobody made an electronic crossover for them. Even the late Sara 9 was only fitted with bi-wire terminations and the passive crossover still remained internal - you couldn’t bypass it unless you disconnected it internally.
 
images


This is what I recall them looking like internally.
 
What electronic crossovers would Sara’s have been sold with when new?

I’ve only seen inside two pairs of Sara loudspeakers over the years.The earlier pair had two pcb’s mounted on wings attached to the back of the front baffle assembly either side of the tweeter.
The later pair ( an original set upgraded to Sara 9 spec at the factory) had a more conventional large green coloured pcb mounted on the back of the cabinet if that makes sense!
 
They did, because I had a pair! I initially used the Naim NAC42XO, that had the built in crossover boards.

Interesting. I’m pretty sure I never saw a pair though. A long time ago though if you used a Nac42? I’m pretty sure neither Linn no Nytech did active crossovers for them.
 
Interesting. I’m pretty sure I never saw a pair though. A long time ago though if you used a Nac42? I’m pretty sure neither Linn no Nytech did active crossovers for them.

Indeed, it was a while back, I bought them from Studio 99. I'm pretty sure I still have the receipt; I'll check it out as soon as I get the chance.


Well, there you go!
 
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I actually have an early pair in the house, fitted with newer Sara 9 replacement bass units. Cabs need tidying up, strip and refinish in a clear satin and then new grills and they'll be for sale.
 


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