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A&R A60

I did myself a crib sheet in excel spreadsheet format.
It won't really copy and paste here but drop me a pink fish message and I can email it back.

Cheers - Julian
 
At the local jumble sale today mine for £5 an A60 ser 27776. Together with an SA60 power amp Ser:0054.
The old owner has thoughtfully labelled the A60 as "left" and the SA60 as "right".
The speaker outputs have been labelled as HF and LF on both sets.
So I presume this is some sort of bi-amp bi-wire setup.
I don't have any other info. I presume it is a din connector between them both but am not sure exactly where it fits.
Has anyone run this sort of setup?
thanks
Steve
 
Dam, thought that I got a good deal at £15 for one of mine!

I won't try and answer your question as I've never had the SA60.

I guess that someone will be along shortly to do that.

Great find though, Pics?
 
That's a late A60, better sounding (I think) that the earlier ones. I have one like your and two others.

You did very well there, perhaps strip the cabinets of the black.
 
Arcam were into active systems back when the SA60 was released so you might well find that there is an active crossover board fitted inside the amp.
These were usually configured for ARC speakers such as the 101
 
Try contacting Arcam and I'm sure they can advise on reconfiguring as a straightforward bi-amp system.
They still service the A60 so should be able to help.

New caps definitely required!
 
At the local jumble sale today mine for £5 an A60 ser 27776. Together with an SA60 power amp Ser:0054.
The old owner has thoughtfully labelled the A60 as "left" and the SA60 as "right".
The speaker outputs have been labelled as HF and LF on both sets.
So I presume this is some sort of bi-amp bi-wire setup.
I don't have any other info. I presume it is a din connector between them both but am not sure exactly where it fits.
Has anyone run this sort of setup?
thanks
Steve

See post#44; your aquisition will most probably be an A60 AP. What should be the "aux" socket is converted to pre-out/power-in and new amps came with a link plug for standard integrated function. The "aux" input is transferred to the spare pins on the tuner socket.

Regards,

Frank
 
That may be all that's holding them together, poor things. Have they been stuck in someone's damp garage for 20 years?

Actually, my black A60 (very early one) was bought with the end panels broken off. It was easy to glue them on again. I then stripped the paint off the wood.
 
See post#44; your aquisition will most probably be an A60 AP. What should be the "aux" socket is converted to pre-out/power-in and new amps came with a link plug for standard integrated function. The "aux" input is transferred to the spare pins on the tuner socket.

Regards,

Frank

Well here is the picture with what I presume is the daughter board.
Not tried to power this up yet.
Do you know what pins in a din plug should be joined to regain standard integrated function?

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp101/archman1/DSCF2443.jpg

Cheers Steve
 
Just a quick A60 questions, if I may......

A friend has just got an A60 (suggested by me as a decent, inexpensive amp) but has found his bass is lacking.

Armed with a test CD (phase check), some speaker spikes for his floorstanding Mission 752s, CDs with big bass and some other gubbins, I dropped in to have a look.

Phase check was OK, spikes improved soundstage/detail and we tried the speakes further away from the real wall (4" to 1ft) and tried toe-in.

The mids and highs were great (really very nice indeed!!), and the soundstage was wide and detailed. But.... the bass was there alright, but was recessed and lacked kick/drive. Turning up the bass tone control helped to redress the problem, but I think was masking symtoms, and not a cure.

We has the same overall sound from the CDP in AUX as we did the PS3 in Tuner, so I have ruled out the source as the bass-shy problem.

I'm suspecting that the amp main caps are not being generous with the juice and really need a service. While the thing's apart for that, it would be daft not to do the lot as described in Robert's excellent article. ;)

Before I send off my RS order, is there anything we have missed and should try?

Many thanks!!

Jon
 
Roberts guide was great but depending on which version of the amp you have there may also be a few ceramics in the signal path which are beneficially replaced with polystyrenes. When I did one I also removed the film cap across the AC input, replaced the diodes with MUR415s and used some more modern OP transistors - I can't recall exactly what right now but will post again when I remember...the service manual is usually available online. if you don't have it PM me your email address & I'll send it.
 
Hi Neil,

This is an early Mag PU version - I'll ask for the s/n. I've got the service manual, so I'll have another look through in more detail this time. I think I have most, if not all the MFRs in stock. Thanks very much indeed for the info!!

Jon
 
Check that the bass knob has been positioned correctly on the pot shaft.
Earlier versions of this amplifier had no centre detent.
Take the knob off (tiny grub screw) and inspect the shaft. When repositioning the knob, make sure the spindle is in the half way position and the white line on the knob is then vertical.

If that doesn't work, the amplifier is bandwidth limited on the input to the volume control by a 1uf electrolytic cap. If that has aged it may well be rolling the LF early. Replace these with 1uf Wima 63v poly caps (the little red ones).
 
Thanks Robert,

I'll get him to check the bass knob position. I have some poly 1uF Wimas somewhere. Any particular voltage rating required at all or is it just a size thang?

BTW, the serial number is A60/E5704
CSA ref: LL43896

So a reasonably early unit, I suppose. Nice little amp - if we can get a bit more LF punch, he'll be very happy.

Cheers

Jon
 


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