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A&R A60

Yes, went for £20 - I was the only bidder, managed to get the nice seller to post it to me rather than pick up.
I'd seen your picture - did you use Nitromors?

This thread and the service manual thread reminded me how much I wanted an A60 when I was starting out - bought the Creeks instead with my redundancy from the steel works (and a Sinclair Spectrum! - computers have a lot to answer for...: ) )
 
You very nearly had competition. The seller said collection only and I had been lost in Hertfordhire before!!

Nitromors may be good, did not have any so I used car brake fluid. One of the gell type strippers may be best, perhaps reducing the chance of staining the wood.

Whatever the stripper, clean it off well, before doing anything else. Watch sanding with coarse sandpaper across the grain, can scratch the wood.

You are lucky, I prefer the sound of the later A60.

Oh, yes, as mentioned, the flash caught the amps, they look better in real life.

When the A60's came out, I disregarded them as to me they looked cheap and nasty. However, in reality, they are well made.
 
TBH I was having a quick zoom round the interweb before bed and ended up on ebay - looked at what was ending in HiFi and that came up with 2 minutes to go and no bids - I bid and then saw the pick up only - whoops - by that time it was mine and so I had nothing to lose (was a bit generous with the p&p to sweeten the deal)

If you're watching T21's too - better make sure we don't bid against each other and end up responsible for the return of inflation!

regards
Chris

PS - wish I could have the same luck getting a TT2 off ebay
 
Yes, I've been looking for a T21 at a reasonable price (very low) for a while, missed a few. I'm not bothered because don't use FM a lot now. Internet radio, soundcard fed into A60. I'm using the tape input, seems to sound better, may be missing a stage or two doing this.
 
In terms of how much longer FM will last I suppose it's debatable whether it's worth the bother. I have several tuners including a Creek T40 but it doesn't look as nice on a shelf with the A60+ as a T21 would. If I could get one around the same price then I suppose it's a no brainer.
 
Yes, just for looks.

I have Quad FM4, FM3, FM1, Radford FMT2, Technics? Rotel? Rogers Ravensbourne, Leak Stereofetic, Philips?
 
T21 is a lovely tuner.
I bought one about six months ago to go with the A60.
Here it is fully serviced and restored:

PB181028.jpg
 
Very nice looking pair

Indeed, that's what's always drawn me to them - there's something very 'british' about their design - simple but functional like the Regas.
Did the A60 ever get a Design Council Award?

Is that the edge of an original Quad ESL in the picture? Does the A60 drive them?
 
It just beats the hell out of me why a Nait is worth $600 and a A&R A60 goes for a around ton....I know which I would buy.
 
Hi
Just picked up a second A60 for £20, this one is a 1981 Teak model (PinkFish what have you started? ;) ) - working but with noisy volume and a slight constant buzz. The reservoir caps are both showing signs of damage - one has a hole and there's corrosion on the leads and under the can. Would I be able to just change these (using Roberts notes as a guide - suggestion is 2 caps for each channel) for now? All the other caps look ok. Or would it just be best to do a straightforward replacement with the same values.
I'm ok with a soldering iron, and have all the relevant gear - no experience of taking measurements off boards but am willing to have a go - brother is a 'sparks'/panel engineer so can get help.

Was pretty surprised at the amount of difference on casework between the 2 samples I have. Happy to take internal photos if anyone is interested.
 
The disease has hit!

I guess that fitting new power supply caps and cleaning the volume pot will have the amp running reasonably. Output transistor bias current should be adjusted as well, and checking output DC offset. All very easy. The A60 service manual is quite good. Use Servisol super 10 or other cleaner/ lubricant for the volume pot.

However, my late A60 includes the A&R upgrade and that amp seems the best sounding amp, so replacing the parts mentioned may well be worth doing.

The service manual is on the internet, or give me a PM and I will send it to you.

PS. The big power supply caps can be replaced very easily without taking out the PCB. Follow instructions in the service manual. Oh, and I would not risk running the amp until those big caps are replaced.
 
Radfordman
Thanks for the info - I've got copies of the service manual etc. I bought this one as an exercise to see if I could do a minor servicing job, and it'll make a nice headamp...

If I buy decent 10,000uf 63v caps that will fit in the case - is that enough? do I need to go with 'boutique components' the others on board are ITT (hardly boutique? - although I did once have a nice pair of ITT speakers).
Not sure where to put the probes on the board when testing the offset - can see R63 is it either side of that resistor?
Sorry, if this is a bit noddy - I've been making my own IC's since I was a lad, and done a few projects - head amps/chip amps - but not anything that's quality with lots of components - it's time I learned :)
many thanks
Chris
 
Radfordman
Thanks for the info - I've got copies of the service manual etc. I bought this one as an exercise to see if I could do a minor servicing job, and it'll make a nice headamp...

If I buy decent 10,000uf 63v caps that will fit in the case - is that enough? do I need to go with 'boutique components' the others on board are ITT (hardly boutique? - although I did once have a nice pair of ITT speakers).
Not sure where to put the probes on the board when testing the offset - can see R63 is it either side of that resistor?
Sorry, if this is a bit noddy - I've been making my own IC's since I was a lad, and done a few projects - head amps/chip amps - but not anything that's quality with lots of components - it's time I learned :)
many thanks
Chris


I would think that 10,000 uF may be OK, perhaps Robert might advise.
To measure DC offset, just put your meter across the speaker outputs (no speakers connected). I can't remember if they specify a limit, but perhaps anything more than about 30mV may be getting a bit much. The two channels will probably be different.

ITT Speakers were quite nice, one model used a very good Audax bextrene bass/ mid.
 
Robert

I read with interest your part 1 on the refurbishment of the A60 but I was unable to find part 2. Did you ever publish it?

I also seem to recall that some time ago (or did I just dream this) that you put together a BoM covering all parts needed for the refurbishment of the A60.

Any pointers would be welcome.


steven
 
Part 2 didn't make it, but in reality it wasn't needed.
If output stage blows (difficult to do thanks to good design) then once new components (easily available) are fitted you just follow the bias set up instructions.
 
Radfordman
do I need to go with 'boutique components' the others on board are ITT (hardly boutique? - although I did once have a nice pair of ITT speakers).

Chris

No, don't waste your money.
The ones in the guide are inexpensive and good quality - they work fine.
 
"ITT Speakers were quite nice, one model used a very good Audax bextrene bass/ mid. "

I can't remember the model number - 8071 springs to mind. They where biggish bookshelf type cabs with a sloping front -2 way - but with a variable control for timing. I bought them in the sale at John Lewis in Sheffield got them for less then 25% of the marked price - had watched them reduce the price each week for about a month. Passed them onto my brother when I'd had my use - they are probably in his attic.
Anyway, I digress - the service manual says 10,000uf 40v for my serial number, and RS have the Vishay's Robert listed and some Panasonic (I've generally stuck with these in my past projects) - the difference in price is minimal so I'll order a pair of the Vishay and see how I get on...
Chris

Thanks for the confirmation Robert
 


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