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140 options

Anderzander

Grateful Bodger
Having just re-capped my parents Nait I am itching to fiddle with my 140, but whats best to do?

1.
Cheapest would be a recap, can anyone reccomend any 40v 4700UF caps?

I would also look at swapping the feedback cap on the RCA circuit as in the Nait 2 mods on Acoustica along with replacing all the tants, perhaps with BC128's. Anybody any advice on this?

2.
Drop in 2 of Les's NCC200 modules. I would like to do this - but am a bit poor at the moment. The house is full of tradesmen and it's making my funds disappear. The thinking behind this would be that I could progress to a 260 after a while by buying the rest of the parts and I'd have spread the cost a bit.

3.
Would Les's Cap6 module fit in? I saw it in the pictures of Basils 2-box-260 but it's not on Avondales website and I don't like ringing Les for little questions.

Any help please?
 
Look at Les' website for a nice list of mods. You may also follow his NCC-200 schematics to understand the changes.

I did the following:
1. changed caps to type BC58, 10,000uF/40v
2. Removed SOA protection circuit
3. Mil-spec tants for the feedback loop (NOS caps made by GE) - 43uF/100v
4. local feedback resistors in the input circuit
5. BC-128 coupling caps 10uF
6. Welwyn resistors for the feedback loop and input filter
7. change values at input filter
8. Re-wire star ground with Carda bulk Litz wire
9. Change signal cable to Cardas
10. Change DIN connector to a nice pair of RCAs (Cardas...)
11. Almost forgot - completely remove preamp power supply circuit from the PS board.

In general - the 140 is too small for fancy stuff like Cap6 etc. Also if you wanna go for the NCC stuff, it would be more cost effective IMO to start 260z from scratch - and sell the 140 for funding.

Goodluck, Yair
 
- I would recap it now, and drop NCC200's in when you've got the cash. You might just squeeze in a Cap6, if you move the amp-board on the cap side forward, but it will be awfully tight with connectors etc. inside the front and rear panels.
 
yairf said:
In general - the 140 is too small for fancy stuff like Cap6 etc. Also if you wanna go for the NCC stuff, it would be more cost effective IMO to start 260z from scratch - and sell the 140 for funding.

Goodluck, Yair

Yair,

I'm thinking I can spread the cost a bit by, buying the NC modules and dropping them straight in. Then at a later date I could perhaps put the 140 back together and sell it to help fund the 260 case, transformer and caps.

All I have altered on the 140 so far is to remove the +24v feed wire from the PCB to the din, which I could easily replace to return it to standard.... hmmm - choices, choices.

Problem is I really like the 140 case and if I'm spending more money - I should look at the front end first......


muzzer said:

Thanks Muzzer - I completely missed that page, despite spending a while on the site looking :eek:

Stephen
 
Hi Andre
The 140 has one major disadvantage by having only one transformer secondary for the two channels, and then you do not enough space for a decent PSU, so you wont be making the best of the NCC modules anyway.
Yair
 
jon l said:
- I would recap it now, and drop NCC200's in when you've got the cash.

Ooops - I missed your post this morning John (when I made my last one).

I think this is the way forward.

I can recap just the 5 main caps, which won't be too expensive and if I use like for like it won't affect the resale value.

Then for a boost I can drop the NCC's in at a later date - whilst gathering the 260 parts.

Then sell the 140 as Yair suggested and get the most from the modules in their new home.


So... can anyone reccomend any 40v 4700UF caps that drop into a 140?
 
Alexzander.
If funds are tight at least replace all tants first,if these are worn it will have a big effect on sound quality(ask Fatcat) use BC128 or tants(I think Artioneer has Panasonic tants for sale on this site).Naim tend to just replace tants when they do the service, well thats what they did on my 140.
 
I was thinking of the resale - but you're right, it would be cheaper and more effective. I could swap out the 47u cap for a silmic 2 as well.

I only have 2 BC128's at the moment - I'll need to put an order in for some more. I have a bag full of silmic 2 10uf's but everyone seems to say that they don't work in place of the tants....
 
muzzer said:
My experience with Silmic 2's is you loose the boogie/Naim factor.

I'll second that. 47uf, £1 tants from Maplin sounded far better than 47uf Silmics in my 140.
 
Thanks guys - I'll do the 128's. There is a 47uf BC128 http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=577248&N=0 I just need to check the voltage.

One more question, I'd like to flesh out my farnell order and thought about a transformer. When I bought the parts to make a hi-cap copy I got 2 super regs and the rest of the stuff from Les.

Unfortunately there must have been some confusion as Les sent me a transformer without the twin secondaries - I would at some point like to change it so that I can do the earth mod.

So do Farnell do a decent transformer with twin centre-tapped secondaries?
 
Anderzander said:
I just need to check the voltage.QUOTE]

I am sure the 6.3v will be OK, from memory the tantalum feedback caps are 6.3v.

If you want to try tants, PM your address and I’ll send you a couple of 10uf/75v axial MIL spec coupling caps and a couple of 47uf/35v axial feedback caps. I’ve used the 10uf Mil spec tants in my pre amp. I’d appreciate other opinions on their quality.
 
Fatcat

thank you very much - I'll pm you now

Stephen

ps I'd still appreciate any transformer reccomendations from anyone?
 
I'm afraid you might have problems finding a suitable transformer with twin centre-tapped secondaries 'off the shelf'.

You might have to ask a company such as Antrim transformers to do a special for you...not cheap one-off.

Why not give Les a call, explain that you need a different transformer and I expect that he will exchange the one he sent you ...he is a very helpful chap!
 
I'll give him a ring - too late to change it though. I'd had it for ages before I realised - and then I just used it.

Thanks Jo.
 


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