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Furutech Terminated Power Cords

How about having the Acrolink Mexcel 7N-PC9700 (US) fitted with the UK plug?

PS, your Luxman doesn't draw a vast amount of current which is worth keeping in mind.

330W (max), 260W (under no signal), 0.5W (at standby) http://www.luxman.com/product/detail.php?id=1

My amps max rating is 1200w, i have no issues using 2.5mm2 flex. http://en.audionet.de/wp-content/uploads/data_sheet_audionet_dna__en.pdf

Try some if this, save yourself from mains craziness http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=324245221069 :D
I've read the data sheet of the Audionet. There's one 50VA toroid transformer and two 700VA toroid transformers. And 1200W max power consumption. Wow! That's amazing if it's running close to that capacity.

The Acrolink Mexcel 7N-PC9700 comes with factory-terminated US plugs only so it's unlikely I'll get that re-terminated in UK plug. I've looked at the Titanex mains cables and it surely looks good. Nevertheless, I think I'll stick with all Furutech as I will need the local Furutech dealer to terminate the cords for me. I just need to settle down a while before I do that. Will probably spend around £500 or less for everything.

Thanks to you I've embarked on the Acrolink journey. Previously interconnects, now power cord to finish it off.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
I also have an EPS G2 PSU on the amp so in total it could potentially draw circa 1500w :D I'm a little scared to track the electricity usage !!

So when the Acrolink speaker cables are in place you'll finally be done lol ;):p:D
 
I've got Furutech mains cables throughout my system now and found that each and every one I added, improved the sound of my system. I tried an array of different plugs along the way, but have settled on Furutech again. My cables include S022N and S032N from the FP-S Alpha Nano series, and the often overlooked (and underrated) FP-3TS762 from the Alpha series. This is a cable intended for high current applications really which has very thick and stiff connectors, it certainly takes some time to terminate it well. I used these on my active speakers and the difference over some Lapp cable I was using before that was pretty massive tbh, I was taken aback as the Lapp was a substantial improvement over the manufacturer cables.
I've listened to the TC-S series too but personally found them a little too smooth and polite in my system. Never tried the DPS4.1 incase I loved it :)
There does seem to be a similarity in sound between the ranges (as you may expect), so it's worth trying all (both?) to see which works best for you.
Plugs wise, the Fi-28 represents great value but I have a number of Fi-11 too on components I don't use so much. Never tried a Fi-50, again incase I liked it. The Fi-1363UK mains plugs are excellent, easy to wire up even with stiff/thick cables and improved the sound for sure. I did like the MS HD plugs too and if you can't accommodate the Furutechs from a space point of view, they're a very close second (I compared gold and Rhodium versions - Furutech better sounding in both cases, but not by much tbf).
Plating of plugs does make a difference too, but I found less so than some others have found. Rhodium at both ends was a little less laid back than I like, Gold at both ends is maybe a fraction too laid back but a mix of one of each tends to give me what I'm after, smooth but detailed.
From what I've experienced, I would say the following things:
1) Make sure you try them in your system (advice is great, but no substitute for listening in your own system)
2) Buy the right cable for the application (don't assume that the top of the range, super thick cables are always the best. Some components don't seem to need it)
3) Plating and length of cable make less of a difference than the type of cable and connectors. You can almost fine tune the cable with these two aspects (once you know what you like).
4) Don't make a snap decision. I've found that mains cables take a good long while of use to sound their best, so give them plenty of time before you start making judgements (3-5days of use depending on core thickness in my experience)

It's your money at the end of the day, so it's whatever you like and think is right for your system (and wallet!). I would maybe start with an FP-S022N, Fi-1363G and Fi-11R or Fi-28R, and see how you get on. This is a fantastic value cable and is also a great test bed for trying other connectors/platings etc.
Thanks for the response. Great post which is surely useful. There's a lot of logic in what you say which I can surely agree. I've been in communication with few people who have experience with Furutech cables and plugs, and similarly most recommended the FI-28 as best value.

I will likely get one terminated in FI-48R (love the looks of the plug although i have no idea how it will sound like), F1-UK NCF plug and FP-S032N to go between the wall outlet and power strip. Looks pretty balanced. The DPS4.1 may be great but similarly don't think I need it.

FWIW I have been switching the existing cords that I have (US plugs) and it has been a pleasant surprise so far. The swap revealed some good differences. I didn't compare much previously as I was using Naim amps before this and they had been connected with standard Naim cords all this while.
 
I also have an EPS G2 PSU on the amp so in total it could potentially draw circa 1500w :D I'm a little scared to track the electricity usage !!

So when the Acrolink speaker cables are in place you'll finally be done lol ;):p:D
Very inefficient amp even when compared to my Class A :D

Haven't given a thought on upgrading to Acrolink speaker cables at this point. Unless I receive a cash windfall everything will remain the same ;) Having said that if I were to look at speaker cables it may be something else other than Acrolink. I was informed by folks who own or have experience with Acrolink Mexcel cables that the power cords are their strongest product, followed by their other cables.
 
The Acrolink N7 8000 is in the Mexcel range IIRC!!

Seriously though IF you do ever Look don’t bypass the SAEC SPC-850. It would also give
You a healthy return on the Sig XLs
 
Update. Instead of going with a Furutech terminated cord, I went with a Furutech GTX-D NCF outlet instead. To cut a story short : BIG difference. Gobsmacked. I haven't even switched my existing cords on the outlet yet.

Before :
IMG-20200904-200008.jpg


After :
IMG-20200904-200050.jpg


IMG-20200904-195938.jpg


Best result is when the cords go directly between the wall socket and component. Not so good result when the cords are connected to a power strip although they go to the GTX-D NCF wall outlet.

I've also bought an NCF booster which I haven't tried in the system yet.
 
Did you consider a Furutech FP- 1363 UK 3 pin wall socket ?
I ask because I'm looking into fitting either one of those or a Russ Andrews Ultra Socket
 
Did you consider a Furutech FP- 1363 UK 3 pin wall socket ?
I ask because I'm looking into fitting either one of those or a Russ Andrews Ultra Socket
No I haven't. Perhaps others who have tried may chime in later.

It's a massive difference, it's like having a new system. Very very impressed. Also, the NCF booster really works. I've got it connected at the rear of the amplifier. I only bought one piece to try as I have run out of money to add more of these.
 
I've got some Furutech Alpha 3 terminated with Furutech plugs and Fi50 iecs. I think they are fantastic cables. The Fi50 makes a good difference compared to lesser iecs.

However, the Oyaide C004 are also extremely good and can be obtained for a lot less (if you can import them and avoid customs charges).

I'm using Nanotec golden strada 309 with Oyaide 004 US plugs and iecs on my monoblocs.

The best connectors are the Furutech fi50, Furutech NCF, Oyaide 004 and the Iego solid silver connectors. The furutech case is better than the others due to the carbon fibre reducing vibration and offering the best rfi protection.

The connectors are more important than the cable. Mains cables are the most important cables in my experience. I have a new Siltech cable to try but I want to upgrade the plugs.

I've got Furutech mains cables throughout my system now and found that each and every one I added, improved the sound of my system. I tried an array of different plugs along the way, but have settled on Furutech again. My cables include S022N and S032N from the FP-S Alpha Nano series, and the often overlooked (and underrated) FP-3TS762 from the Alpha series. This is a cable intended for high current applications really which has very thick and stiff connectors, it certainly takes some time to terminate it well. I used these on my active speakers and the difference over some Lapp cable I was using before that was pretty massive tbh, I was taken aback as the Lapp was a substantial improvement over the manufacturer cables.
I've listened to the TC-S series too but personally found them a little too smooth and polite in my system. Never tried the DPS4.1 incase I loved it :)
There does seem to be a similarity in sound between the ranges (as you may expect), so it's worth trying all (both?) to see which works best for you.
Plugs wise, the Fi-28 represents great value but I have a number of Fi-11 too on components I don't use so much. Never tried a Fi-50, again incase I liked it. The Fi-1363UK mains plugs are excellent, easy to wire up even with stiff/thick cables and improved the sound for sure. I did like the MS HD plugs too and if you can't accommodate the Furutechs from a space point of view, they're a very close second (I compared gold and Rhodium versions - Furutech better sounding in both cases, but not by much tbf).
Plating of plugs does make a difference too, but I found less so than some others have found. Rhodium at both ends was a little less laid back than I like, Gold at both ends is maybe a fraction too laid back but a mix of one of each tends to give me what I'm after, smooth but detailed.
From what I've experienced, I would say the following things:
1) Make sure you try them in your system (advice is great, but no substitute for listening in your own system)
2) Buy the right cable for the application (don't assume that the top of the range, super thick cables are always the best. Some components don't seem to need it)
3) Plating and length of cable make less of a difference than the type of cable and connectors. You can almost fine tune the cable with these two aspects (once you know what you like).
4) Don't make a snap decision. I've found that mains cables take a good long while of use to sound their best, so give them plenty of time before you start making judgements (3-5days of use depending on core thickness in my experience)

It's your money at the end of the day, so it's whatever you like and think is right for your system (and wallet!). I would maybe start with an FP-S022N, Fi-1363G and Fi-11R or Fi-28R, and see how you get on. This is a fantastic value cable and is also a great test bed for trying other connectors/platings etc.

After almost 3 years, I finally settled with one. FP-TCS31 with FI-28 (R) connectors. Initially, I wanted to go for the FI-50 NCF (R) but the price was too high so I settled with the FI-28 (R) instead.The current TCS31 with FI-28 (R) is surely making its presence felt as clarity in music has been significantly improved.

IMG-20230531-203956.jpg


Will likely consider adding the FI-50 NCF (R) if I need an additional mains cable in the future.
 
I compared the standard Puritan device against the SE version which uses Furutech and there was an improvement.
The socket grips the plug a lot more firmly too
 
Update. Instead of going with a Furutech terminated cord, I went with a Furutech GTX-D NCF outlet instead. To cut a story short : BIG difference. Gobsmacked. I haven't even switched my existing cords on the outlet yet.

Before :
IMG-20200904-200008.jpg


After :
IMG-20200904-200050.jpg


IMG-20200904-195938.jpg


Best result is when the cords go directly between the wall socket and component. Not so good result when the cords are connected to a power strip although they go to the GTX-D NCF wall outlet.

I've also bought an NCF booster which I haven't tried in the system yet.

Forgive me for asking the obvious, but you’re not putting 230V through that Furutech wall socket are you?
 
Web page does say...
GTX-D NCF(R) - 20A 125V

Why not use their Schuko socket which is rated to UK voltages?
 


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