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Refurbishing wooden kitchen worktop

richardg

Admonishtrator
After I sand the wood down and wipe the dust off with a wet cloth, my work looks amazing for about 10 minutes. Then when it dries you can see bits I've missed and swirly imperfections in the sanding.

Based on this I am trying to win an argument that we should treat the worktops with oil, not lacquer, as oil is always a bit wet (like water) and will hide the imperfect work a bit better than varnish.

Am I onto something here, please? Or am I talking out my arse?
 
Oil is a bit more forgiving than lawyer, not because it's any wetter, but because it has less sheen and you rub it into the surface.

Obtaining a good finish is tricky but you have a better chance if you methodically go through grades of sandpaper from say, 120 through 180, 240 and 320 ensuring each erases the marks from the previous grade.

It helps if you have a sander attached to an extractor to remove dust as you go, followed by a sweep with a soft brush, a vacuum and finally a soft, clean, lint free cloth, dampened with white spirit or equivalent (water raises the grain). Allow to dry before applying a finish. Brush on and rub off with cloth if using oil or use a soft brush or foam applicator for varnish.

Rub down lightly between coats (make sure is properly dry first).

Good luck!
 
I would use oil in preference to varnish as in my experience oiled finishes are easier to maintain with the occasional re-oiling. Something like Rustins Worktop Oil will do the job nicely, but there are plenty of other brands available.
 
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Generally I agree. But we are selling the apartment, so I want the best result for the sale, not for future maintenance.
 
I’ve used Osmo oil on a new oak worktop for the last year. It still looks as good as new.
In saying that the guy who fitted it suggested that it’s best not to get the worktop wet. I thought that’s what worktops were for.
 
I would try using an iron and a damp cloth and steam the surface to raise the dips/scratches and then use a finer sander or even wire wool
 
I would try using an iron and a damp cloth and steam the surface to raise the dips/scratches and then use a finer sander or even wire wool
You need to be careful with wire wool as little bits can corrode and the wool can discolour some woods (I know oak can react this way, there may be others).
 
You need to be careful with wire wool as little bits can corrode and the wool can discolour some woods (I know oak can react this way, there may be others).

They all do, one way or another. On dark woods it is less obvious. On pale ones - avoid at all costs, even for flatting after coating.
 
Do you know how to use a cabinet scraper? Dirt cheap, loads of stuff on YouTube re how. A scraper doesn't open the grain the way abrasives do, it polishes the surface.
 


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