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Wall mounting Rega turntables

R

roa51

Member
Hi All,
How any of you have a DIY wall mounting bracket for your Rega P8 or P10? If so, how did it work for you
you and can you please post pics.
One more question please, how would the Pro-Ject's Wall Mount it 5 work compared to the Rega Wall Mount?
Thanks
 
Did have a DIY shelf for my P9 back in the day (also used on a P25) which was replaced by the mk1 Rega version which gave a noticeable uplift in performance.

Here's a pic, don't have one of the DIY version :-

IMG_0014 by Dave Charlton, on Flickr
 
These things don’t wear out, so I’d suggest hitting eBay. The Targett wall shelf I got 28 years ago still works well and they can be had very cheaply, and much the same applies to the excellent Rega shelves too.
 
What I plan to do, is mount one end of the Rega bracket to a stud on a load-bearing wall
and the other end with a dry wall anchor(self-drilling). The turntable and bracket weight
less about 10 lbs., so I should be good-to-go.
 
See my post of earlier. Solid wall good for the Rega wall bracket. Plasterboard wall not so good.
 
If the width between screws on the TT bracket doesn't match the spacing of the wooden uprights behind the plasterboard, my inclination would be to get a rectangular bit of solid wood or plyboard which is wider than both the TT mountings and the wall uprights.

Secure that to the uprights of the wall with the biggest screws possible, paint/decorate to match or contrast with the wall, as appropriate, then secure the TT bracket to that.

I wouldn't go for half-and-half mounting, where one side goes into the upright, and the other is secured into plasterboard only.
 
Studs are always easiest/best, but you can use some variation of toggle bolts without issue. I've had my Rega shelf mounted in at least 3 rooms in my house, and it has always been rock solid; the width generally means one end in a stud, the other in a toggle bolt. I'm not sure what availability is in the UK/Europe, but I'm sure you can find something like this style (I would call it a "zip toggle"):

https://toggler.com/products/snaptoggle-heavy-duty-toggle-bolts-304-stainless-steel-channels

These are rated starting at 100+ lbs. per (200+ as pairs), which is...certainly more than adequate for a turntable shelf. I have a medicine cabinet mounted in one of our bathrooms using these, and it's as solid as anything else in the house.
 
I have a Planar 8 and made my own shelf because I'm as concerned about the look as much as the sound. I used custom cut and polished 10mm clear perspex and used constrained layer damping material between the shelf and the brackets. The shelf measures very well using a low cost accelerometer and also measures well using Analog Magik.
 
My own DIY effort, 2 heavy duty brackets at £11 IIRC then Finnish birch ply I had around and painted. Nuts bolts and washers for levelling.

Decided after a while to use it in skeletal form so kitchen slate board on some isolators I had around between that and the wood and custom lid about £80 from eBay. Handles since fitted as suggested by TonyL but I don’t have a handy picture of that to add for the moment.



 
I'd just go with the Rega one. I have one that I prevously used with the P9 and now P7, its just the best thing for them. Nice and simple engineering, sturdy and I think matches the turntables quite nicely design wise.

From 2019 and couple of houses ago... with the P9

System by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

And as it is now... with the P7

Rega P7 by Robert Seymour, on Flickr
 
Weight shouldn't be an issue with the rega decks on a stud and plaster board wall, especially if you use the metal expanding fixings, rather than the screw in type.

But the problem you will get is vibrations, as the sud wall and the void that's between the plaster board will act badly to the sound produced from the speakers.
Depending on how good your system is, you will hear a difference in sound quality, and for the worse I am sorry to say.
I know this as I had a P8 mounted on a stud wall and it sounded thinner and not as detailed compared to the rack before
 
Hound said:
But the problem you will get is vibrations, as the sud wall and the void that's between the plaster board will act badly to the sound produced from the speakers.
Depending on how good your system is, you will hear a difference in sound quality, and for the worse I am sorry to say.
I know this as I had a P8 mounted on a stud wall and it sounded thinner and not as detailed compared to the rack before
Click to expand...

Precisely my (and others?) problem. The only way around it is to cut away the plasterboard, plaster and paint the resulting exposed brick, and try to make it look acceptable.
 
[QUOTE="Tim Jones....... The only way around it is to cut away the plasterboard, plaster and paint the resulting exposed brick, and try to make it look acceptable.[/QUOTE]

Not quite, I have the misfortune to live in a 'modern' house which has 'dry lined' (dot & dab) walls, but fortunately discovered these anchors :- https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/categories/rigifix-fixings which have worked very well supporting an LP12 on an 'Audiotech' wall shelf downstairs, and a Garrard 401 + a Thorens TD124 both with Loricraft plinths (heavy) on 'Full Decent' wall shelves in my 'man cupboard' upstairs.
Although I purchased mine 'online' from 'Rigifix' and they are available in both M6 & M8 sizes.
Regards
Mike K.
 
Yes, I've seen those - the rather evident problem being that they are still running through the plasterboard, transmitting its flexing and ringing to the deck.

It may be structurally sound, and it will solve any footfall problem, but I'm dubious about the sonics.
 
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Tim Jones said:
Precisely my (and others?) problem. The only way around it is to cut away the plasterboard, plaster and paint the resulting exposed brick, and try to make it look acceptable.
Click to expand...

Or cut out a piece of plasterboard, drill the wall behind, insert threaded bars, use a two part epoxy to secure the bars, then build the wall out with a piece of DPC, some plywood or other materials, finish off with a piece of fresh plasterboard, tape and fill the seam, plaster, fill and paint, then mount the wall rack onto the threaded bars and secure with nuts, mark off the access and cut off, then finally secure with either two nuts to lock or Nylocs. That means your wall rack will be fixed to a solid secure wall.
 
Darren L said:
Or cut out a piece of plasterboard, drill the wall behind, insert threaded bars, use a two part epoxy to secure the bars, then build the wall out with a piece of DPC, some plywood or other materials, finish off with a piece of fresh plasterboard, tape and fill the seam, plaster, fill and paint, then mount the wall rack onto the threaded bars and secure with nuts, mark off the access and cut off, then finally secure with either two nuts to lock or Nylocs. That means your wall rack will be fixed to a solid secure wall.
Click to expand...

Indeed it will. Quite a job though, at least for me...
 
If installed correctly, and the brick or block into which they are installed is 'sound', believe me, they are 'secure'.
If you were concerned about transmission from the 'plasterboard' one could enlarge the hole in the plasterboard so that it had clearance.
However, one might then have to consider transmitted sound from the wall itself :)
Regards
Mike K.
 
Hound said:
But the problem you will get is vibrations, as the stud wall and the void that's between the plaster board will act badly to the sound produced from the speakers.
Click to expand...

If all the studs and plasterboard in the room are moving to this extent, won't that influence the sound far more than the little segment behind the TT mounting?
 
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