Getting 'tight' and on point bass is in my view about phase alignment around the listening area, managing RT60's, removing some but not necessarily all the low frequency nodes, choosing the right amplifiers that can 'drive the cone and damp it properly, a light but rigid cone. All the performance metrics matter BL^2/RE, MMs. taking care about transients is key in my view, meaning the system needs to be as responsive and dynamic as possible. Plus the right balance of driver for the right frequencies. It took me a long time to find that all the 'low frequencies are long waves so thinking about them in milliseconds makes no sense' is wrong - That is not the case if you use your ears. If I was starting again I'd keep my 18" subs and swap my 12" subs for very lightweight (necessarily low excursion) 15" drivers. I also accept as you go very low it's pressure reinforcement and this does augment the overall sound.
Cabinets need to be rigid too and easier to stay with sealed than moving to reflex IMO, having said that a huge horn bass system has a lot of appeal