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When is a spring not a spring ? When it’s a polymer Insole

In the end he removed the motor, PSU and the subchassis/ platter/ arm from the plinth, attached the motor to the wall, and had the subchassis on the shelf via either the Thorens rubber grommets or hard cones. Oh- by then the bearing had been cut out of the Thorens metal subchassis, leaving a flange to bolt to a new DIY subchassis..

How, and why, do you steal that? :0.
 
How, and why, do you steal that? :0.
Heh! Yeah, you wouldn't think so, would you? He'd moved from our home town by then, and at the time he was living in a very rough area. His flat was broken into and cleared of anything that might have had any kind of value. I don't suppose the thieves really gave it much thought. He may've had the motor in some kind of pod at that stage, so that the deck could be used as a free-standing unit. Although it obviously looked home-made, it was reasonably neatly done and painted black, so not totally repulsive!
 
I've seen TD-150s with rubber foam inside the springs. Maybe a similar effect as it "calms" the springs?
I don't think they'd have much effect on the twisting of the subchassis relative to the plinth-mounted motor, if any. They do damp the vertical bounce quite a bit though. I took them out when I first owned mine, but it did make the deck pretty twitchy to use, even if it probably improved the isolation.
 
He'd moved from our home town by then, and at the time he was living in a very rough area.

Yeah, I wouldn't have done that. I remember looking at a house when I was young and single and realising I couldn't entertain it because It was a dead cert it would get robbed while I was out at work. These morons steal first and think about what it might be worth later.
 
I'm guessing the suspension bolts don't need to be anything like as long as they are now with the springs. If so next "upgrade" would be shorter bolts?
 
I'm guessing the suspension bolts don't need to be anything like as long as they are now with the springs. If so next "upgrade" would be shorter bolts?

That is a possibility, but I never thought to suggest it but felt that folk may not personally get on with the presentation that the In Sole provided, thereby allowing them to revert back to springs.
 
That is a possibility, but I never thought to suggest it but felt that folk may not personally get on with the presentation that the In Sole provided, thereby allowing them to revert back to springs.

Fitting shorter spring bolts would a be pointless waste of time. Welcome to the internet I guess.
 
If springs were no longer to be used then I'd have to disagree. Long bolts are a PITA if they're not needed.
 
In close to 40 years I have never had to have my LP12 reset due to the tuning going off.

I have however heard a number of turntables with insoles/mushrooms.

In my somewhat predictable opinion they throw the baby out with the bathwater.

They render the deck much less tuneful and kill much of the boogie factor.

Linn has spent an awful long time refining the LP12 with careful consideration to maintaining the decks energy management, little surprise that changing out a major component has a dramatic effect.
 
In close to 40 years I have never had to have my LP12 reset due to the tuning going off.

I have however heard a number of turntables with insoles/mushrooms.

In my somewhat predictable opinion they throw the baby out with the bathwater.

They render the deck much less tuneful and kill much of the boogie factor.
I must say my experience has been pretty much the exact opposite! As to 'energy management', well, maybe, but the suspension structure itself is still virtually identical to the Thorens TD150 the Ariston/ Linn design is based on, and very similar to the AR deck that the Thorens is based on. I've owned three Linns, two of which I still have, and I've worked on and owned several TD150s and '160s. Naturally there are some mild differences in spring compliance and presumably the exact composition of the rubber parts. The top plate design is probably the most different bit, along with the subchassis, at least on modern Linns.
 
To my ears the insoles are much more tuneful but a trifle less airy and open. As for "boogie factor", if it isn't just a euphemism for a Linn badge then it's never the 'air' that makes boogie for me, it's always the tune and the rhythm first, so the insoles provide a very welcome injection of "boogie factor" in my Sondek.
 
To my ears the insoles are much more tuneful but a trifle less airy and open. As for "boogie factor", if it isn't just a euphemism for a Linn badge then it's never the 'air' that makes boogie for me, it's always the tune and the rhythm first, so the insoles provide a very welcome injection of "boogie factor" in my Sondek.
Yep, that's exactly the way I hear it. A sprung deck does seem to suggest more 'air' or 'space', but with with fatter, looser bass and a less definite sense of pitch and forward momentum. But again, that's my room, music, preferences, experience and the rest. Other people will have different opinions, which is fine by me. I see the substitution of mushrooms for springs and the differences they make as a useful alternative for owners of Linns and similar decks. Given the excellent availability of original and alternative parts at a wide range of prices, new and second-hand, it may make ownership of a Linn or Thorens more attractive to people who otherwise wouldn't have considered them.
 

Quite simply because if springs and grommets have been removed for use of In Soles or mushrooms, the long hanging threads have a habit of catching and tearing /cutting the skin on the back of your hands if you are a little blase' when levelling /working with the LP12 on a jig. That's enough of a reason for me.
 
As a long time LP12 owner, I'm intrigued. Pitch instability has always been my #1 peeve with the Linn. It is clear from the visible oscillations of the anti-skate weight on the ARO that there is sub-chassis movement on certain records. I'd like to give these or the silicone mushrooms a go. After all, I've got so many non-standard parts on my deck, how much worse can a set of polymer 'springs' be?
 
..the long hanging threads have a habit of catching and tearing /cutting the skin on the back of your hands if you are a little blase' when levelling /working with the LP12 on a jig.

Fair enough. Can't say I've ever found this a problem but hey ho.
 
When you do as many as I do it becomes an issue. Similarly mechanics or maintenance people (esp lazy ones) too lazy to cut a long bolt short when installing guards or machine covers, really wind me up.
 
I installed a set of In Soles a few months ago but since I haven't had time to sort the set up completely I was holding off commenting. If there is anything missing I'm damned if I can tell. Doddle to install and John was kind enough to answer my queries as to whether best with the deck right way up or upside down (the latter) so other than finding my bearing cap (the hardest part), it was just platters and arm removal, flip into the jig, then remove the springs and grommets one at a time replacing with an In Sole thingy and the supplied replacement adjuster nuts. Flip back, reassemble, tweak until level. Done. No more bouncy bouncy deck as Tom Fletcher would have said. For those of us with a tremor, this, and an arm lift (sorry Richard!) will allow us to continue use of the old fruit box into our dotage. Listening to The Original Memphis Recordings right now, delightful, just absorbed by the music. Thank you John!
 
I installed an early set of these years ago (no idea how they’ve changed since @John R ?) - I’m afraid I ultimately reverted back to the springs. Some things were better with In Soles, but they were not things I was interested in - I found imaging (air & space) was lacking, which was more important to me than whether a piano note warbled a bit.

Deck was a 77 LP12 non-Cirkus with John’s excellent Sole sub-chassis (early prototype), arm board and Plattamat - Mission 774, Asaka and DIY Geddon.

Just for balance like, sorry @John R - and I know you won’t mind me saying :)
 


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