New cartridge time? - how do you know?

[Tony L]

That looks absolutely caked in crap to me. To the point it isn’t even the right shape!

PS Hint: it shouldn’t be black! Ten minutes or so sitting on a AT637 or equivalent with a drop of stylus cleaning fluid would almost certainly transform it.

 

[Jamie]

Maybe should look like:

 

[Johnjo]

Looks like the tip is missing!

 

[ossy]

Looks like the tip is missing!

I’ve just borrowed a loupe, soaked the tip in alcohol and given it a good scrub - it now looks like the picture above!

Wow, was indeed dirty. Just need to put back and see if its still alive !!

 

[sonddek]

It is quite common to see this. The crud can really be almost welded on. I don't use fluids because I'm superstitious, but I do scrape all around the diamond with a sliver of 2500 grit paper (lost all the green stuff). If you hold the sliver (say 20mm x 5mm) at one end and scrape with the other you can easily apply non-fatal pressure. I've done this with so many cartridges now and never damaged or removed a diamond. Often I've seen under the microscope great stubborn cakes of crud come off, and often the sound is entirely rejuvenated when I had all but given up on it.

My stylus-cleaning routine is inspect always, brush often, scrape when suspicious and follow up with jewellers putty.

 

[Craig B]

No need to worry about capillary action of cleaning fluids with Rega built MMs, as there is no damper within a shank up the other end, only a permanently induced magnet as suppository.

 

[Craig B]

I’ve just borrowed a loupe, soaked the tip in alcohol and given it a good scrub - it now looks like the picture above!

Wow, was indeed dirty. Just need to put back and see if its still alive !!

There is no need to remove the cartridge in order to give the tip a good cleaning. What you need is a better brush, something like this from Pro-Ject, Ortofon , and numerous others.

Nagaoka or audio-technica stylus cleaning fluid is worth having on hand for the occasional über-cleaning, otherwise use the brush dry each record playing session, only dragging back to front whilst contacting the tip with barely enough pressure to deflect the cantilever. Best to leave the tonearm unclipped from its rest, or just sitting on the raised cueing platform, just in case.

 

[ossy]

From this to this:

 

[ossy]

Thanks everybody, as always, excellent advice. I’d been cleaning the stylus regularly but had no idea so much black gunk had built up.

 

[Big Tabs]

Thanks everybody, as always, excellent advice. I’d been cleaning the stylus regularly but had no idea so much black gunk had built up.

You have now reached Level 2 of your journey.


well done

 

[Craig B]

From this to this:

Nice exhumation.

 

[ossy]

It’s amazing what you can accomplish with some single malt and a bri

You have now reached Level 2 of your journey.


well done

Am guessing that Level 3 is cleaning your ears.

 

[Big Tabs]

It’s amazing what you can accomplish with some single malt and a bri


Am guessing that Level 3 is cleaning your ears.

pardon?

I haven’t reached that level yet.

 

[Craig B]

Am guessing that Level 3 is cleaning your ears.

There's a new tool for that called 'Tvidler', but my GP always warned me never to stick anything smaller than my elbow in; claims a few drops of warm oil will soften all and let run out. I've always assumed he meant mineral oil rather than Shell Spirax 80W-90 hypoid gear lube; only I've a big bottle of the latter here for servicing Rega Planars that I'll never get through.

 

[John]

I’ve always gotten between 2500-3000 hours from my Linn MC cartridges. I usually notice end of side distortion or vocal sibilance when they need replacing. I rotate between Asaka, Klyde and Troika. Currently enjoying the Asaka which has maybe 10 hours on it. I clean the stylus every three or four sides with Rodico which does a good job. Here’s a shot of the Rodico after several months.

 

[sonddek]

Another good way is to put a hot water bottle on your pillow and lie sideways on it. Local heat makes wax run. Gravity does the rest.

 

[Mr Pig]

Another good way is to put a hot water bottle on your pillow and lie sideways on it. Local heat makes wax run. Gravity does the rest.

Ah, so my granny was being helpful when she said 'Awaw an boil yer heed!'

 

[John]

There's a new tool for that called 'Tvidler', but my GP always warned me never to stick anything smaller than my elbow in; claims a few drops of warm oil will soften all and let run out. I've always assumed he meant mineral oil rather than Shell Spirax 80W-90 hypoid gear lube; only I've a big bottle of the latter here for servicing Rega Planars that I'll never get through.

I have one of those too that I purchased to service a Rega 2. Have no idea what use it has now sitting on a shelf in my basement. The quantity I have is over a hundred times what I needed.

 

[Craig B]

I have one of those too that I purchased to service a Rega 2. Have no idea what use it has now sitting on a shelf in my basement. The quantity I have is over a hundred times what I needed.

So, you don't happen to have a bus or heavy duty truck with a non-synchronized manual transmission, then? Also recommended for service fill of all limited slip differentials in passenger cars and light trucks calling for SAE 80W-90 and API Service GL-5 specifications.

 

[ossy]

Cart back on and sounding sweet, result.

Thanks again for all the comments. Have also learnt a bit about gearbox oil and ear cleaning - where else on earth would you get such diverse and important info?