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LP12 sweet spot under a grand

Being something of a Luddite, if I was offered the choice of a Linn from any era (assuming pristine condition in every instance) I'd take my first one, from 1978, with a Grace G707 and Supex SD900.

With hindsight, so many things wrong with that on any number of levels, but to which the only reasonable response to criticism would still be 'f*** off.'

Probably the most fun I ever had from vinyl.

Replaced it in the early eighties with a newer LP12, Ittok and Asak, and progressively bought fewer and fewer records, albeit it took me at least a year to realise that.

Back around 1976 I had LP12, mission 774 and asak. I then bought another LP12 with grace, supex 900. There was no contest. The music just flowed from that combination. And the asak was supposed to be the better cartridge. I kept the grace, supex, and got rid of the mission. Today I use a syrinx PU2 which is superb, but have just bought another G707 to see if I can replicate that experience.
 
Thry were always a great arm (I had a from new black Vll & LVlll) , it was just that upgrade choices were more limited so people (inc. me) tended to upgrade to an Ekos or an Aro.

I know. I did the same (with an Aro), except that I never rated the Ittok. The difference was not subtle.
 
Back around 1976 I had LP12, mission 774 and asak. I then bought another LP12 with grace, supex 900. There was no contest. The music just flowed from that combination. And the asak was supposed to be the better cartridge. I kept the grace, supex, and got rid of the mission. Today I use a syrinx PU2 which is superb, but have just bought another G707 to see if I can replicate that experience.

I really liked the Syrinx, but the issue was always quality control. I used to advise customers that if they listened to a Syrinx and really liked it, insist you get that one for your hard-earned cash. Mate of mine had probably the best one I ever heard, with an SD900, which could sound magical.

Sadly another dealer twatted the bearings a couple of years later while changing a cartridge.

He still grouches at me occasionally (40 years later) because a couple of years after I left the trade I really didn't want to set up turntables any more...
 
I really liked the Syrinx, but the issue was always quality control. I used to advise customers that if they listened to a Syrinx and really liked it, insist you get that one for your hard-earned cash. Mate of mine had probably the best one I ever heard, with an SD900, which could sound magical.

Sadly another dealer twatted the bearings a couple of years later while changing a cartridge.

He still grouches at me occasionally (40 years later) because a couple of years after I left the trade I really didn't want to set up turntables any more...

Yes, totally agree. Scott used to make the first PU1s initially in the back of Russ Andrews shop. The PU2 I have now has been completely rebuilt and rewired by Audio Origami, and is superb. I have another deck that the grace is going on.
 
I think it should be easy to find what you're after Sean, mine was considerably less than a grand sans arm- a late 80s rebuilt and serviced from our own @lencotweaker

45 doesn't bother me as I don't have any I play, So I suppose a Lingo or alternative would be required for that.
 
I heard an 80's LP12 recently and it sounded very average, not even that to be honest: tubby, vague, disinterested....

I love the look and the modular options, but I would listen elsewhere too if I had a grand to spend.
 
I heard an 80's LP12 recently and it sounded very average, not even that to be honest: tubby, vague, disinterested....

I love the look and the modular options, but I would listen elsewhere too if I had a grand to spend.

Sounds broken to be honest, but I guess everyone hears things differently but I wouldn't use any of those words to describe mine.
 
Back around 1976 I had LP12, mission 774 and asak. I then bought another LP12 with grace, supex 900. There was no contest. The music just flowed from that combination. And the asak was supposed to be the better cartridge. I kept the grace, supex, and got rid of the mission. Today I use a syrinx PU2 which is superb, but have just bought another G707 to see if I can replicate that experience.
Couldn't have been 1976, Bob, as Asak didn't come along until '78 and 774 the following year.
 
Sounds broken to be honest, but I guess everyone hears things differently but I wouldn't use any of those words to describe mine.

Just set up, new £500 MC cartridge. Sounded nice in places, but very coloured and beaten by a low-cost Dual.
 
Late ‘70s / Early 80’s deck, pre-circus bearing, Grace or Mission tonearm, A&R Cambridge P77 cartridge with an Expert stylus.

Phat musical fun and should be less than £1K
 
Some -maybe all- of the hardware actually has published torque specs and it may be worth picking up a screwdriver type torque wrench so there is no guessing or mistakes that may ruin a part.
Published by whom? Surely not Linn.

From "LP12 SET-UP" 1991 (Revised 1998)...

Tightening Procedure

Since we are dealing with a transducer that has to recover information considerably smaller than a millionth of an inch from a phonograph record, it is important that all fasteners (screws, nuts, and bolts) in the turntable be very tight. Whenever the instructions call for you to tighten a fastener, we do mean tight - probably tighter than you would have imagined.

However, there is no advantage to tightening past the point where materials will deform, or where you damage the materials or destroy their structure. A good rule of thumb is simply to bring the nut or screw up to where it seems tight and then turn it about 1/8 turn more (in the case of armboard screws, which are put into wood, 1/16 turn will do).​

For some, the above instructions will be indistinguishable from "tighten it 'till it breaks, and then back off a quarter turn".

If referring to the fastener makers, then surely it is the materials that are being compressed that count here.

The only tightening technique that Linn ever specifically described was within the Basik Turntable manual where which end of the Allen key to hold whilst doing up the Akito collar, and how far past 'finger tight whilst holding the short end' one should go whilst holding the long end was represented with a drawing. Rather unusual for a user manual, that is, until one considers that Akito started out with a rather too easily deformed pillar.
 
Published by whom? Surely not Linn.

From "LP12 SET-UP" 1991 (Revised 1998)...

Tightening Procedure

Since we are dealing with a transducer that has to recover information considerably smaller than a millionth of an inch from a phonograph record, it is important that all fasteners (screws, nuts, and bolts) in the turntable be very tight. Whenever the instructions call for you to tighten a fastener, we do mean tight - probably tighter than you would have imagined.

However, there is no advantage to tightening past the point where materials will deform, or where you damage the materials or destroy their structure. A good rule of thumb is simply to bring the nut or screw up to where it seems tight and then turn it about 1/8 turn more (in the case of armboard screws, which are put into wood, 1/16 turn will do).​

For some, the above instructions will be indistinguishable from "tighten it 'till it breaks, and then back off a quarter turn".

If referring to the fastener makers, then surely it is the materials that are being compressed that count here.

The only tightening technique that Linn ever specifically described was within the Basik Turntable manual where which end of the Allen key to hold whilst doing up the Akito collar, and how far past 'finger tight whilst holding the short end' one should go whilst holding the long end was represented with a drawing. Rather unusual for a user manual, that is, until one considers that Akito started out with a rather too easily deformed pillar.

You are correct, I should have been more clear, the Torques that I spoke of were listed on another forum/s by LP12 enthusiasts that claim that these values sound best, now I'm not sure about that part but for the person not familiar with or not quite sure about "Torque Feel" having actual values can be a great help in providing a starting point; I'm not sure if I can post a link here. ...FWIW, I'm a licensed aircraft mechanic but long out of that field, and I know a thing or two about Torque, almost every part on an airframe has a torque value associated with it, and over time with much repetition I could almost guess just by feel how close I am to those actual values, this is what I mean about "torque feel". But that whole "tighten a fastener, we do mean tight - probably tighter than you would have imagined" can lead to much speculation and possibly even damage to components. Even I would be left guessing/wondering what exactly that means from an actual Torque value point of view.
 
I am intrigued by Paul Mc’s reference to an LP12 turntable sounding ‘disinterested.’

Some of my Wife’s pupils were disinterested in learning.
Perhaps some of their parents owned a Linn turntable...
 
Back when I was selling and setting up Linn LP12’s in the mid 1980’s we did not use torque screwdrivers but knew through training at Audiophile Systems how tight the fittings were to be by feel. It’s obvious not as precise as using a torque screwdriver but there never a point where one felt you were over tightening or causing damage.
 
It's odd that Ittoks seem to be fashionable again.

I don't think it's odd. Linn have resolutely refused to build budget tonearms, or even tonearms at vaguely reasonable prices. So sheeps wanting a good arm which says Linn on it, but which doesn't cost more than their entire deck, don't have a lot of options. And you can comfort yourself in the faded glory of owning Linn's once best tonearm.

I've not heard the combo myself but I suspect the Ittok will match a more modern sounding incarnation of the LP12 quite well. The tighter deck bringing some needed control and cleanliness to proceedings. I'm sure it's still a viable option.
 
A well set up LP12 with Pre Cirkus bearing is really something special.I did upgrade to the Karousel and no regreats as it offers far more in clarity and a much smoother cohesive soundstage.
But pre cirkus has got that upper bass bloom and its certainly pretty engaging non the less.
 


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