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New Modushop 4U/400 case

Good Evening All,

OK so I've now used two of the Dissipante cases I have to say the current method of assembly is nothing short of c**p and I'm being generous.

The near inaccessibility of the fixings for the front plate and the method of fixing the inner chassis plate are particularly bad once you have actually attached anything to said chassis plate.

It might just be me of course.............

Regards

Richard
 
Assemble the front n sides, then add back, mount the output boards then fit the bottom with traffo caps etc already mounted. Use spades where possible.

They are far from an optimum design, they're engineered for manufacture, not assembly that's for sure.
 
They're so tempting for a 686 mono build. Word if warning though expect 20% vat plus handling fee, £15, on full receipt value inc shipping. Added £60 to last pair of 2u 430mm I bought.
 
Good Evening All,

OK so I've now used two of the Dissipante cases I have to say the current method of assembly is nothing short of c**p and I'm being generous.

The near inaccessibility of the fixings for the front plate and the method of fixing the inner chassis plate are particularly bad once you have actually attached anything to said chassis plate.

It might just be me of course.............

Regards

Richard

Richard
I find a long PZ1 screw driver really helps on assembly and maintenance of these cases
Stanley FatMax 065336 Screwdriver Pozidriv Tip PZ1 x 250mm 3253560653361 | eBay

Alan
 
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Richard is correct in the fact that the (dissipante) cases and maybe other ones are really poor to assemble
I (personally) would not make one without the mesh plate bottom, as this adds strength and aids alignment...but only if it is checked for straightness first.
I've found the edges to be bent slightly at the wrong angle, which throws everything out.
Best to bolt them up with the mesh plate and sides ..then "bend" it into shape using a ruler to check alignment.
Also, I soft soldered the (mounting) nuts to the plate....which transforms ease of assembly
 
Glue is a bit hit or miss (yes, I've tried it with little success)
Solder is easy and quick (using one of those tiny lighter gas torches) and is still reversible if needed.

IF you can sacrifice the (approx 10mm ) of hight it also seems stronger to put the mesh base "upside down" and this has the added advantage of allowing more room at the base for transformer bolts or wiring / whatever
 
IF you can sacrifice the (approx 10mm ) of hight it also seems stronger to put the mesh base "upside down" and this has the added advantage of allowing more room at the base for transformer bolts or wiring / whatever

Tim,

"Upside down" is the right way up surely and allows clearance for such as toroid securing bolts along with assorted screw heads for stand-offs etc.

Regards

Richard
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Building instruction sheet???????? I haven't seen one so can't comment - am I missing something?

Just one of the cases I have bought came with a pictorial build sheet that showed the order and orientation of build. I guess they cannot be bothered to put them in every box;)
 
Just one of the cases I have bought came with a pictorial build sheet that showed the order and orientation of build.

I've only had the one brand new supply from Modushop directly and there were no instructions included which, TBH, is quite surprising. There doesn't appear to be anything on their web site.

Regards

Richard
 
I’ve always used the inner chassis panel and it has to be installed ‘n’ so the nut heads used to fix Tx etc. don’t clash with the bottom cover.

I use two L Ali braces fixed to the rear panel to align the rear panel to the top and bottom covers fixed in place with self tappers to give some rigidity to the whole case.

as stated previously, designed for manufacture not assembly. And now the 400 dissipate ( even with PFM discount) is well over £200 delivered to the UK, that’s with the inner chassis plate. Then you have to introduce some light engineering and materials to make workable.

The front pane is best (easiest) to fit if you use 20mm long m4 bolts with the heads sawn off and filed clean then used as stud bar into the front panel fixing holes then just spin the nuts on and tighten with a spanner, ring or open ended.
 


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