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Beewax Polish on Harbeth (or any other speakers)

I’ve had other speakers that obviously had a polyurethane finish. My 15 year-old Harbeths certainly did not, or they would not have soaked up the beeswax-based polish as they did. I’ve seen other wood veneer speaker cabinets in the BBC style that certainly don’t show the obvious hard gloss of polyurethane.

Polyurethane is available in a variety of textures, it is not only a high hard gloss.
 
I tried beeswax on my new Stirling V3s and it didn’t ‘take’ like I expected, so removed it.
Only a little Pledge is used on them.

Using beeswax on my old Spendor BC1s has worked well.
I used some wood restoring liquid first, from a friend who restores antique furniture.

Then, when dry, I applied the beeswax.
Works very well indeed.
 
By way of follow up, I just got in a pair of Spendor Classic 3/1s on approval. They are the current model. Though larger, their cabinet is vey similar to my older Harbeths. Same thin wall construction and veneer; even the cherry stain is close. But the new Spens do have a light clearcoat; it looks and feels like it may well be a polyurethane treatment. The woodgrain is certainly sealed, you wouldn’t want to apply a beeswax-based cream polish to that, (or anything designed to be absorbed into the grain), as i did with the older Harbeths, to good effect.
 
By way of follow up, I just got in a pair of Spendor Classic 3/1s on approval. They are the current model. Though larger, their cabinet is vey similar to my older Harbeths. Same thin wall construction and veneer; even the cherry stain is close. But the new Spens do have a light clearcoat; it looks and feels like it may well be a polyurethane treatment. The woodgrain is certainly sealed, you wouldn’t want to apply a beeswax-based cream polish to that, (or anything designed to be absorbed into the grain), as i did with the older Harbeths, to good effect.
I got some food grade beeswax which came in solid blocks. I tried to dissolve the beeswax by heating the blocks in a pot. It turned to liquid very quickly but the application to the surface of the wood didn't turn out well. During the application, the liquid beeswax turned to solid form very quickly and left a mess of the wood surface that's being worked on.

After checking some YouTube videos, I realised that the solid blocks of beeswax are double-boiled and mixed with mineral oil before it can be used as a wood polish. Silly me.

I won't use the beeswax on the wood veneer of the Harbeth. Instead, I'll apply it on the PMC sub and some large wood blocks. Beeswax mixed with mineral oil this time.
 
I got some food grade beeswax which came in solid blocks. I tried to dissolve the beeswax by heating the blocks in a pot. It turned to liquid very quickly but the application to the surface of the wood didn't turn out well. During the application, the liquid beeswax turned to solid form very quickly and left a mess of the wood surface that's being worked on.

After checking some YouTube videos, I realised that the solid blocks of beeswax are double-boiled and mixed with mineral oil before it can be used as a wood polish. Silly me.

I won't use the beeswax on the wood veneer of the Harbeth. Instead, I'll apply it on the PMC sub and some large wood blocks.

Beeswax polishes were traditionally made up in turpentine, more recently in toluene for example.
 
By way of follow up, I just got in a pair of Spendor Classic 3/1s on approval. They are the current model. Though larger, their cabinet is vey similar to my older Harbeths. Same thin wall construction and veneer; even the cherry stain is close. But the new Spens do have a light clearcoat; it looks and feels like it may well be a polyurethane treatment. The woodgrain is certainly sealed, you wouldn’t want to apply a beeswax-based cream polish to that, (or anything designed to be absorbed into the grain), as i did with the older Harbeths, to good effect.

Nice, how are you finding the 3/1s?
 
Nice, how are you finding the 3/1s?


Yes, please report your findings, they review well (doesn’t everything) but not heard any real world opinions. Photos too natch!!

You bet! Just trying to get through the honeymoon period before I get too carried away; I’ll start a separate thread. For now, they exceed expectations - really hit the sweet spot in my den (about 3.5 metres by 5.3).

Cheers,
Paul
 
Guys, need help.

I applied beeswax first on some large blocks of wood as a test and they turned out pretty well. I then tried it on the wood veneer of my PMC sub but it didn't turn out too well. Few spots have some whitish marks upon inspection at close range. The Beewax managed to restore some shine to the finish which is good, and it's only at certain Areas there are some white fade spots.

Some of the marks on the right side as below.
IMG-20220213-114541.jpg


Close up shot below
Screenshot-20220213-114653.jpg


Any thoughts if this can be eliminated? The solid chunks of beeswax are mixed with mineral oil. I didn't measure the ratio though. I applied the beeswax on the surface and buffed it as recommended on few YouTube videos. When it didn't look too good, I repeated the exercise. There are slight improvements but the whitish fade marks are still there.
 


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