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Linn Karik Lasers Available

david ellwood

david ellwood

Kirabosi Kognoscente
If you have a karik that is skipping, lasers to repair are available.

kariks pre 13000 serial are hitachi HOP-M3 lasers.

available from cpc at £14

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=AS00418


if you have a karik post 13000 or an ikemi the laser is a hitachi HOP-M3a

These are quite a bit more expensive at £18

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=AS00316


replacement is easy just remove the mech (four screws into the tray)

remove ribbon connectors to main pcb.

lift out the mech.

remove the two connectors to the laser assy (under the mech)

undo (a quarter turn) the two cam locks retaining the transport bars.

remove the transport bars.

tease out the old laser and replace.

replace the transport bars.

replace all in reverse order.

when I have time I will detail alignment of the laser (requires scope)

never adjust the pot on the laser assy it is factory set for life.
 
"never adjust the pot on the laser assy it is factory set for life."

This might be suspect–laser current setting is pretty crucial–if it's set at the factory there will be a) a specific measurement, and b) an effect on sound quality.

If, on the other hand, the trim pot sets the focus, this may not be so bad. More information required from both Linn and Hitachi on this.
 
without a serial number on the back the local dealer said no,could go straight to rega i suppose,anyway if i can repair it cheaper, nuff said.
 
david ellwood said:
I am led to believe that the planet uses a sony kss213 laser.

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search2/browse.jsp?N=500009+401+411&Ntk=gensearch_003&Ntt=KSS213&Ntx=&_requestid=430706

dunno which one of these it is, best to open the machine and check for markings or a visual resemblance.

arent rega prepared to service your machine?
Click to expand...



I think they may actually be KSS240A, in which case http://www.dalbani.co.uk/index.php should come in handy, around £15 each (unbranded).
 
David:

Do you have similar information for replacement of the laser on NAIM CD players? They appear to suffer a higher than normal failure rate and several cannot be repaired by the factory as complete replacement mechs are no longer available.
 
david ellwood said:
....replace all in reverse order.

when I have time I will detail alignment of the laser (requires scope)

never adjust the pot on the laser assy it is factory set for life.
Click to expand...

David,
do you mean that after having replaced all in reverse order, there is still something to work out regarding laser alignment?

many thanks

Jean-Christophe
 
yes

there are two things that can be aligned.

focus servo

laser current.

put you scope on the Vrf test point and adjust the focus servo trimmer (just north of the test point) for clear eye pattern.

a new laser is likely to be a bit bright and the laser current can be backed off.

turn the trimmer (on the laser assy) anticlockwise til eye pattern is 1.4V p-p.

when measured all the new lasers i have fitted have resulted in a level of 1.6 - 1.8v when fitted new.

under no circumstances turn the laser current above the level set at factory.

this control is incredibly sensitive and the slightest movement can result in a big voltage change.

With experience you can set laser current by ear as it really sounds so much better when it is correctly adjusted.
 
David,
many thanks for this useful information.
By the way, it seems they have limited stock of lasers. We'd better ordering them quite soon

Jean-Christophe
 
I have a Linn Karik 111 with a failed laser and am about to replace it.
I note the usefull info on Focus adjustment and Laser current adjustment.
The test points don't tie up with the Karik III which is fitted with a later version PCB.
Does anyone know the correct method of adjustment for the Karik 111
thanks
Ian Macdonald
 
Hello r50bike. Any luck on finding the test points on Your Karik III?

David, could You please clarify if the laser assay pot that adjusts the bias point to 1.4V is the same one that You say never to adjust in post 1? ;)

I just bought a HOPM3 for my Karik and I'm desperate to adjust it optimally.
Any further help is much appreciated.

Thank you for a very usefull thread!

Best regards,
Niclas
 
Never mind, I've managed to determine that these optical blocks were either Sony KSS-213B or KSS-240A.

What I am not sure of is whether or not these are interchangeable (doubtful), or whether the mech that each one fits matches the early red coloured PCB vs. the later purplish coloured one.

Basically, I am reluctant to remove the optical block from the transport mechanism of my still working Planet just to find out for sure.

On the other hand, I would like to stock at least one spare as this is likely to be my last CDP and I enjoy it enough to want to keep it going for as long as possible. IOW, before having to succumb to the sound-bite generation's preferred server based solution.

Any shared experience would be appreciated.

Craig
 
i know that the jupiter 2000 used a kss 213b as i have replaced one before, if you look through the top of the planet you should be able to see a white sticker on the back of the laser withou stripping the machine. the sony based players are pretty much plug and play and replacing the laser is a very simple job
 
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