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Toslink/optical socket

matt j

pfm Member
Are they all the same? The one on my Sonos thingy has lost the little door so it won't hold the cable in, I've tried bodging it by wrapping something over the cable end to make it more of an interference fit but it doesn't hold so thought about just replacing the socket, any links to what I might need?
 
Hope this pulls up some general info. Only started using digital connections this year and apart from the thin flexible cable, it’s awkward to use compared to co-ax.
 
Are they all the same? The one on my Sonos thingy has lost the little door so it won't hold the cable in, I've tried bodging it by wrapping something over the cable end to make it more of an interference fit but it doesn't hold so thought about just replacing the socket, any links to what I might need?


I replaced one on a mixer I had a few years back for the same reason - from memory it was a bit fiddly to solder as it was surface mounted so fragile tracks and also held in with two plastics legs through the board as I recall. Think I got mine of eBay at the time - pin layout was the same anyway.
 
Are they all the same? The one on my Sonos thingy has lost the little door so it won't hold the cable in, I've tried bodging it by wrapping something over the cable end to make it more of an interference fit but it doesn't hold so thought about just replacing the socket, any links to what I might need?


In fact I still have a couple left over - can send you one if you want it.
Bit awkward to take a pic and I'm off out for a short while but will give it a go later and post here.

Basically, there are five pins and two plastic legs all arranged around the edge of the bottom with the plastic legs nearest the door edge - not surface mounting by the look of it but through the board.

pretty much the same as this one:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/fibr...VB7TtCh0SfQiTEAQYAyABEgKX1vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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I've replaced a few over the years and the only differences have been the position of the pins that go to the board. Electronically they have always been the same.

So its really just a game of snap!
 
Unhelpfully, my experiences have been different, with some logic chips not recognising different models of Toshiba input device (hello, Musical Fidelity!). At the time I didn't know enough to to understand why, so cannot now account for it.

I also found (the hard way - is there any other?) that they are easy to kill with tiny amounts of static or overcurrent...
 


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