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What to do to get my system sounding better at lower volumes

I’d seriously recommend trying a valve power amp or integrated. Your speakers were designed using one and based on a design that would have been too. I own a pair of the WD18s (like Heybrook HB2s) and the only time they really sang properly was on the end of a push-pull kt88 amp. They sound fine but a little lifeless on transistor amps. Being class A I’m guessing your Sugden has quite a high damping factor. Definitely worth a try. The WD amps can be had very reasonably used.

Well, if someone really wants to, they can experient with a series resistor + cap network between amp and speaker. As with the ESL57 + 303 the unbypassed coupling cap adds a 'bump' to the low LF response, and the resistor alters the overall response according to the speaker impedance vs frequency. Its a cheap and low-skill way to experiment.
 
I guess that at some point I really need to write up the experiments I did on modding the QUAD 34 bass lift curve. Their circuit is presumably beyond patent these days so the IPR of the circuit is open.

TBH I wasn't ever happy with standard 'loudness' controls as I tend not to think F-M curves are a panacea. Better to be able to tweak the LF and HF as you might prefer. The Armstrong 600 has an F-M switch, but I'd tend to alter it to a simple attenuator to make the volume control settings saner. :)
 
When auditioning Spendor D7.2 floorstanders, they sounded very good at low levels, noticeably more so than any others I can recall, so it is possible.
Try some of the suggestions given and see what, if any, work.

I listened to the D7's with a Naim Uniti NOVA 2-ish years ago, was a superb pairing.
 
...
2) Need to be implimented with care not to do more harm than good.
3) Saves money for a maker to omit them and say it is for 'sound quality' reasons.

Designing a good tone control is not simple. You actually only want a limited boost or cut of no more than 5-10 dB, ideally with some control of corner frequency. Getting the centre position flat is not trivial. Design from the RS catalogue, which is what UK manufacturers did, lacked decent pots and won't give good measured results or feel.
 
Designing a good tone control is not simple. You actually only want a limited boost or cut of no more than 5-10 dB, ideally with some control of corner frequency. Getting the centre position flat is not trivial. Design from the RS catalogue, which is what UK manufacturers did, lacked decent pots and won't give good measured results or feel.
Although I did this decades ago I seem to remember that the Baxandall tone control circuit in the Lindsley Hood 75W amp that I built did a good job. However it was a long time ago.

Cheers,

DV
 
Some vintage amps provided tone controls with switchable turnover frequencies, which permitted more targeted contouring of the response.
 
Some speakers do sound better at low volume levels than others.
They also tend to sound rather shit when the wick is turned up.
Choose your poison.
 
Could just be the slight differences in your perception of different frequencies as the volume decreases. Bass and treble seem to recede (relative to mids) as you head down into the quiet zone.... I've found the loudness control (don't laugh!) on my amp to be useful when background listening at 0600 on a Sunday morning with a cuppa and a copy of the Eye....
I'm sure you're right - I have some hearing loss in right ear, and I find the more I turn the volume down, the less detail I hear through that ear.
 
I have two systems in my main room, one a combination of Quad 67 cd player, Leben 600 amplifier and a pair of Rogers ls3/5a's, which is perfect for low level listening. Whereas when i want to turn the wick up, and rock out, i use my Bryston system, fronted by a pair of B&W 800 Diamonds that really tickle my pickle, when the feeling takes me. Someone with more understanding will probably be able to explain why that is, but it works for me.
 


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