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Longevity

The only American company I can think of that has been around a long time, is still seen by some as being at the forefront, and can still service things back to their beginning is Vandersteen, which seem to be thin on the ground in Blighty.

I’d certainly add Klipsch to that list and Ohm Walsh too. You can still service/get suitable parts for a 1948 Klipschorn! I suspect classic Conrad Johnson and Audio Research are very serviceable too.
 
I’d certainly add Klipsch to that list and Ohm Walsh too. You can still service/get suitable parts for a 1948 Klipschorn! I suspect classic Conrad Johnson and Audio Research are very serviceable too.

CJ and ARC - not so much, sadly . . . And don't even mention Levinson, Krell, etc.
 
CJ and ARC - not so much, sadly . . . And don't even mention Levinson, Krell, etc.

IIRC there are schematics for the classic CJ and ARC, and there is no magic in them. It is all just valves, resistors and capacitors. The CJ stuff is full of film caps too, so should really last. Early ML are notoriously awkward with sealed modules etc. Annoying as I’d likely have tried some by now if it was more serviceable. Folk do seem to service classic Krell ok.

For me the key isn’t manufacturer support, it is whether the documentation and suitable parts are available, e.g. I’d rate a Leak Stereo 20 as fully serviceable even though Leak haven’t existed for 50 years or so. You could even get dead transformers rewound should you wish, the knowledge and skills are out there, as are the schematics.
 
Most kit using generally available discrete semiconductors (i.e. not proprietary V-FETs) can be serviced. Loudspeakers constructed with durable drivers (no foam surrounds to rot or ferrofluid to dry out) and film caps can last decades. Except for the digital components, all of my kit are at least 30 years old. I have no reason to think they can't last another 30 years.
 
Not all caps are film in the CJ's apparently, the ones to do with the PSU can go, if they do its game over apparently.

P.S. I am no expert, just what an owner told me after speaking to CJ.
 
I'm soon to be moving house and (fingers crossed) I'm hoping to convert an adjoining double garage into a dedicated music room.

I have a few in mind, namely Rega for the digital front end in the Isis CD player.
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A double garage conversion should be a good size and as its going to be a dedicated music room , that's what i would be concentrating on first.

Depending on what sort of final room you are looking at , there are many things you can do with the conversion . Door and window position , floor and ceiling construction , insulation and heating , positioning of mains sockets , and acoustic treatment .

Cant fault the idea of the Rega Isis though. built to last and with Regas fantastic backup. That's my final cd player.

If you were looking for larger new speakers then PMC are worth listening too , with their 20 year warranty.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys, yes @Folkman I will be concentrating on the conversion first although as there is rooms above the garage and I wouldn't be on for trying to make it bigger I am restricted to a certain extent, but I'll definitely be looking at all the things you mentioned in your post first and foremost.
I'll probably opt for windows on the frontal aspect of the same size and spacing as the front of the house ( it's an old stone house with sash windows) , as to make it look like less of a garage conversion , there only is one other small gable end window which I'd like to commission an encapsulated stained glass pane for, I'm undecided about whether to close up the rear pedestrian door, it may be handy to keep it for access although the garage is accessible from within the house.
Insulation and heating will be a priority, I'm considering an underfloor heating system for this space but may opt for radiators, perhaps traditional cast radiators, insulation will depend upon the existing construction, I'm not sure if the adjoining garage is a later addition to the property, I think it is, hopefully it will have cavity walls, if not I will dry line the walls with sufficient insulation and perhaps use a variety of cladding or facing materials, perhaps natural stone, etc.
I will install a dedicated mains ring and have the power outlets positioned appropriately for the system. Luckily I'm capable of doing all the construction related work myself to high standard as I've 30 years experience in construction and I'm super fussy.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys, yes @Folkman I will be concentrating on the conversion first although as there is rooms above the garage and I wouldn't be on for trying to make it bigger I am restricted to a certain extent, but I'll definitely be looking at all the things you mentioned in your post first and foremost.
I'll probably opt for windows on the frontal aspect of the same size and spacing as the front of the house ( it's an old stone house with sash windows) , as to make it look like less of a garage conversion , there only is one other small gable end window which I'd like to commission an encapsulated stained glass pane for, I'm undecided about whether to close up the rear pedestrian door, it may be handy to keep it for access although the garage is accessible from within the house.
Insulation and heating will be a priority, I'm considering an underfloor heating system for this space but may opt for radiators, perhaps traditional cast radiators, insulation will depend upon the existing construction, I'm not sure if the adjoining garage is a later addition to the property, I think it is, hopefully it will have cavity walls, if not I will dry line the walls with sufficient insulation and perhaps use a variety of cladding or facing materials, perhaps natural stone, etc.
I will install a dedicated mains ring and have the power outlets positioned appropriately for the system. Luckily I'm capable of doing all the construction related work myself to high standard as I've 30 years experience in construction and I'm super fussy.
In my experience ceilings in garages are low, which could be a limiting factor. I’d prefer a ceiling >8’ for a dedicated listening room, if it were me. Have you the capacity to dig down a bit, if so?
 
In my experience ceilings in garages are low, which could be a limiting factor. I’d prefer a ceiling >8’ for a dedicated listening room, if it were me. Have you the capacity to dig down a bit, if so?

I don't know the ceiling height but no real issue with digging down apart from the graft involved :oops:
My current garage has an 8' 6" ceiling, I'd assume that's typical, I may have to dig down a little to tub or chemically damp proof anyway.
 
I don't know the ceiling height but no real issue with digging down apart from the graft involved :oops:
My current garage has an 8' 6" ceiling, I'd assume that's typical, I may have to dig down a little to tub or chemically damp proof anyway.
8’6” is great, but not usual, IME. (My experience may be wrong, obvs). I’m more used to seeing roof trusses around the 6’6” - 7’ level.
 
No matter the ceiling height , acoustic treatment on the ceiling is often given little consideration.

I treated mine [9ft] with 2 panels at the first reflection point and it made a noticeable improvement. Only latter did i add another 4 panels and got a much bigger improvement , really changed the feel of the room for the better.

So if you can do it , its highly recommended.
 
No matter the ceiling height , acoustic treatment on the ceiling is often given little consideration.

I treated mine [9ft] with 2 panels at the first reflection point and it made a noticeable improvement. Only latter did i add another 4 panels and got a much bigger improvement , really changed the feel of the room for the better.

So if you can do it , its highly recommended.

Definitely something I'll look into.
 
Be wary, even today’s big Japanese manufacturers use CMS, bad caps and software based components.
Go for simple, traditional manufacturing with linear power supplies and no exotic or bespoke components that won’t be available in 5 years…
I’m not sure that say Naim will be able to repair their fairly complex Unity products in 10 years. Do ask.
I can confirm that a Supernait is much more difficult to service than a NAP 110 as they have multiple surface mount components.
Mine broke while still under warranty and Naim replaced the whole board instead of the faulty part............that tells me a lot.
 


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