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Any love for Royd Speakers these days?

You could always look out for mk1 Rega Ela (fully fluted version) - they do come up on eBay from time to time (at low price imo)
Yes, at the time of purchasing 'The Albion', I had spares for my ELA (unofficial Mk1.25) in mind (i.e. half-fluted with same Royd sourced RR11 8-bolt bass/mid driver).

As bonus with these, and early Royd models, there is no damping gunk to seep into the voice coils.
 
My friend Terry met Joe a few times, he and a couple of potential partners were one of two groups that had approached Mr. Akroyd with the intention of buying the brand (and, in this case, transferring production to right here in Ontario, Canada). In the end, nothing came of either, and Phonography ended up buying up the last of the stock and spares.
 
IIRC, It was our @Mike Hanson who was among the first to wax lyrical about 'The Albion', both on here and on the Naim forum. It was his endorsements that had me...naw, I would have had them regardless.
Yup, and I still have a bunch in my various systems, and they're still making lovely music. RR3 is in the family room; the Minstrel SE and AV77 in the home theater; the Sintra 2 connected to my office computer; the Seven in my son's bedroom; and the Squire sitting idle.

A friend loves my Albions; I encouraged another friend to get Doublets; and my sister has my A7X.

You could say I'm a Royd fan. ;)
 
Yup, and I still have a bunch in my various systems, and they're still making lovely music. RR3 is in the family room; the Minstrel SE and AV77 in the home theater; the Sintra 2 connected to my office computer; the Seven in my son's bedroom; and the Squire sitting idle.

A friend loves my Albions; I encouraged another friend to get Doublets; and my sister has my A7X.

You could say I'm a Royd fan.
You are obviously 'The' Royd fan, Mike!

P.S. I've been trying to get Terry R. to part with a box of gummed up Royd bass/mids for years. Have you had any contact with him of late?
 
You are obviously 'The' Royd fan, Mike!

P.S. I've been trying to get Terry R. to part with a box of gummed up Royd bass/mids for years. Have you had any contact with him of late?
I've not talked to Terry in more than a decade.
 
Admiring your newly found restraint :p

I'm thinking about the toys to come, Tim, and how expensive brand new toys can be...

Incidentally, get hold of some Orange oil, and apply sparingly around the rear of your hifi/av setups...

It'll stop the cats shitting on your cables again.
 
I have a pair of A7 MkIIs, which I bought from Better Hi-Fi in Liverpool in 1988/9 and loved, but the foam on the drivers perished some years ago, alas. My main speakers have been Rega Ela 1.25 since I bought them new in 94, and the Royd drivers on those are still near mint. I consider upgrading from time to time but like 'em too much.
 
I have a pair of A7 MkIIs, which I bought from Better Hi-Fi in Liverpool in 1988/9 and loved, but the foam on the drivers perished some years ago, alas. My main speakers have been Rega Ela 1.25 since I bought them new in 94, and the Royd drivers on those are still near mint. I consider upgrading from time to time but like 'em too much.
The wee Royd drivers present a good learning experience when it comes to a re-foaming exercise.

I was all set to say they are the easiest to refoam due to the lack of a dust cap, however, I remembered that A7 MkII was one of the few to have such fitted.

Still, a steady hand with the X-ACTO and you are in, Mission Impossible style (cue theme music...)
 
A few years ago I worked through all of Royd's top line standmounts from the Eden to The Sorceror. TBH, I found them all a bit too bright and over-excited and decided they weren't my thing. But they're a good buy if you can find a pair for £150 or less. They do a lot of the things Kans are good at.
 
As Ela mk1’s were mentioned, I’ve got a pair in the loft. When I bought them, onevtweeter wasn’t working. However, when I tested it out of the cabinet, it was. I can only assume it’s a crossover problem, but have never managed to find any help/ info to repair them. Anyone out there?
 
Finally, a practical reason to install cable lifters!

:D:D:D

Yes, was none too impressed yesterday with one of the feline members of the household. To be honest it was only the AV rig, and I think it was probably a review of the quality of the You Tube based music that it is often heard "playing".

It's actually a nice little system (Roku and Marantz CD7300, with a steaming 2 ch AV amp Pioneer SX-S30 and currently Tannoy DC4-T speakers), and the one I would put some Royds in if I had any. :)
 
As Ela mk1’s were mentioned, I’ve got a pair in the loft. When I bought them, onevtweeter wasn’t working. However, when I tested it out of the cabinet, it was. I can only assume it’s a crossover problem, but have never managed to find any help/ info to repair them. Anyone out there?

Not usually too hard to trace cross-over faults, although I usually end up having to take the components out of it and test them with a multimeter.
If you've established the drivers are all working, at least to some degree, it is only the crossover that can be at fault. Speaker are generally the easiest of all components to diagnose electrically as there's very few components and only 3 types of them. Check solder joints for any obvious discolouration and cracks too if they're on a PCB.

The other thing is, if you're doing impedance/resistance measurements, most multimeters have a 9V battery which when applied directly across a driver is just the sort of scenario they don't like. I always disconnect the drivers from the cross-over when looking for continuity in the cross-over circuit. But as I said, they're usually so simple I usually take the components out and check them.

Oh, always do one speaker at a time when dismantling / upgrading cross-overs - so you have a reference, you don't want to put it back together wrong... (seen it done....oh, yes I have.... Linn 3 bar tweeter generating ceramic dust as the diaphragm hit the bars.... :eek::rolleyes:)
 
All well and good Timpy- if I knew what I was testing and what I was looking for! I’ve had the crossover board out, which is fairly simple, but I don’t know how to test each component, what the value should be, plus I haven’t used a multimeter in over 20 years!
 


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