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Building a wall

Wait a few months and I am sure you could get a good rate for an unused and unfinished wall on the Mexico border

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What do you grow in it?

I’d love to have a terraced piece of ground like that.

Peas, French, broad & runner beans, asparagus (eating now), usual root crops. Variety of tom's and peppers in g/houses plus basil, spr. onions, lettuces, aubergine and okra (experiment). My garden isn't terraced; it simply slopes 2 ways, but luckily facing south & east. Hence the hassle building g/house foundations, walls etc. The garden is completely hedged, up to 10 or 12 feet. Wife does the ladder stuff when trimming.
 
Peas, French, broad & runner beans, asparagus (eating now), usual root crops. Variety of tom's and peppers in g/houses plus basil, spr. onions, lettuces, aubergine and okra (experiment). My garden isn't terraced; it simply slopes 2 ways, but luckily facing south & east. Hence the hassle building g/house foundations, walls etc. The garden is completely hedged, up to 10 or 12 feet. Wife does the ladder stuff when trimming.
Bit more global warming and, with that aspect, you might be on for a nice crop of Pinot Noir.
 
sure i found some that did big hedges , we had a hedge survey last year after neighbour threatened to destroy it with his brick wall

maybe i was wrong . these are 1m

https://www.hedgesdirect.co.uk/acat...irens-16L-25-30cm-1-Metre-trough.html#SID=119

1m long, 30cm high.

(I do not advise anyone to use Box these days because of the Box Caterpillar. I used to grow a lot of it, an awful lot. All dead.)

But you can buy very tall evergreen / semi-evergreen hedging plants. It's just that to make a proper hedge you should cut it right down to encourage lateral shoots. These things can be very expensive too
 
Bit more global warming and, with that aspect, you might be on for a nice crop of Pinot Noir.
Probably get away with Riesling or Chenin Blanc now.

A south facing wall is nice for a vine or two; I have tall hedges. The house I moved into (with a fifth acre garden) in '82 had dark red grapes on a vine, but they weren't nice to eat, so I let them perish, I think. Too busy brewing beers in the cellars). My next, more modern and smaller garden also had vines on a trellis across the back , but I don't think those were much cop, as I dug them up later.
 
A south facing wall is nice for a vine or two; I have tall hedges. The house I moved into (with a fifth acre garden) in '82 had dark red grapes on a vine, but they weren't nice to eat, so I let them perish, I think. Too busy brewing beers in the cellars). My next, more modern and smaller garden also had vines on a trellis across the back , but I don't think those were much cop, as I dug them up later.
The climate has changed in 40 years. I remember my dad trying to grow Eucalyptus gunnii in the 80s. Failed, every time. Further north again, here in Leeds, they now grow everywhere.
 
But you can't get hedges supplied that are thick. Add to this the fact that to turn a row of plants into a hedge, i.e. to make it bush out horizontally and intertwine with the other plants, you need to cut the bush down -- this will stimulate the buds below the cut to produce horizontal side shoots. The standard procedure to create a hedge is to plant small specimens and cut them right down to the ground; each year reduce the new growth by a third until you get to the desired height.

And also bear in mind that large specimens are more likely to die than small ones, because they are harder to establish (big plant and small root system)

Starting from scratch with privet takes 2-3-4 years depending on soil, gardener etc.. Then lasts for 100 years - 150? More?
Hardwood native hedges - cutting back to the ground - yes, been there, done that - 5 years and you have a dense hedge. Lasts 500? 1000 years? More?

Bigger starting stock - mulch, mulch and mulch and leaky hose, with a timer if seriously lazy - done that too.
 
Starting from scratch with privet takes 2-3-4 years depending on soil, gardener etc.. Then lasts for 100 years - 150? More?
Hardwood native hedges - cutting back to the ground - yes, been there, done that - 5 years and you have a dense hedge. Lasts 500? 1000 years? More?

Bigger starting stock - mulch, mulch and mulch and leaky hose, with a timer if seriously lazy - done that too.

I’ve got an angle formed by two walls. It is south west facing, very sunny, very hot, too hot for human beings to spend long there in the summer, and of course the walls are like storage heaters.

Vinny - recommend me something which is so beautiful, so exotic, to go grow there - something which will make people’s jaws drop.

(There’s an Abutilon there now, it has been there for years, beautiful constant flowers but it’s small and leggy. It probably wants more acid soil than my neutral London clay - I have to feed it chelated iron to stop chlorosis.)
 
recommend me something which is so beautiful, so exotic, to go grow there - something which will make people’s jaws drop.

The problem will be getting anything established because of the heat, so very late summer into autumn would be the time to plant. I also do not beleive that anything is "jaw-dropping" for more than weeks during any one year, such plants simply do not exist. It also depends on what you want to pay and how long you want to wait, and how much maintenance you are willing to put into it. I also asume that it will be planted into decent soil and that the soil will not dry-out at depth, or if it does, it is going to get regular watering. Growing anything in a tub in that position is plant cruelty, if for no other reason than that roots will bake, which no normal plant likes. You do not say how large/tall the walls are. Also, just like music, beauty (how "jaw-dropping") is always in the eye/ear of the beholder.

If the walls are big enough, I'd go for climbers, or climber. None of these are self-supporting.
At the simplest level, some of the Canary ivy (Hedera canariensis) cultivars are spectacular, and are quick once established - one or two cultivars are brilliant lemon yellow and very dark green irregularly variegated. No flowers of course (or not worthy of note).
A labour of love, but variegated Trachylospermum jasminoides is one hell of a plant when in flower, and the flowers can go on for quite a time. Reasnably slow and not cheap to buy (you cn buy large palnts at huge expense).
Roses need more attention and depending on the height of the wall you'd need a climber or rambler - climbers make only 4-6 feet in height, ramblers do more height - in some varieties (e.g. Rambling Rector) 60 feet and more. They require VERY simple pruning - just completely remove older stems at the base each winter once established. Choice of variety is lmost limitless and many will flower for an age, and everyone knows about the possibilities of scent.
Wisteria is a possibility but spectacular only when in flower or when ancient, when the gnarled form of the trunk and branches can have great beauty.

If you don't want climbers, there are some very tropical borderline hardy herbaceous plants that might work, but they are THIRSTY. The tricky bit is establishing them. They will be cut down by frost but the root-stock/tuber will over-winter fine with minimal protection and not water-logged.
Some Datura species/cultivars. They vary in maximum height from about 60cm to 200cm, and higher. Some are variegated, some are shrubs/small trees rather than herbaceous.
Hedychiums. They are mostly in the 100-300cm region.
Maybe a banana - Musa or Ensete. Again they'd be cut down by the first frost, but HUGE varieties are grown by the dedicated living way north in the UK - they bury them in straw or bracken each year in late autumn and remove it in late spring.

There are also some very exotic-looking S African bulbs that would do well at the base of the wall, but truly spectacular only when in flower -
Eucomis, now available in a variety of sizes and umpteen colours, including red/broze foliage.
Crinum - leaves look similar, but flowers do not, many are scented
There are also Crinum hybrids with other genera - Amocrinum?????? (hybrid with Amarylis)
Agapanthus - endless shades of blue/blue-purple, and white, everything from 15cm to 200cm tall flower spikes.
In time, they will all offset and make a huge clump. The bulbs sit only JUST in the soil surface, maybe one third under-ground. Agapanthus is a sort of rhizome, sitting just under the soil surface.

If you really are looking for something striking all or most of the year, you are really looking at spectacular foliage, which means huge (banana, but shows nothing in winter), or variegated (loads of choice).

Anything sound/look attractive? Anything actually potentially suitable?
 
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The problem will be getting anything established because of the heat, so very late summer into autumn would be the time to plant. I also do not beleive that anything is "jaw-dropping" for more than weeks during any one year, such plants simply do not exist. It also depends on what you want to pay and how long you want to wait, and how much maintenance you are willing to put into it. I also asume that it will be planted into decent soil and that the soil will not dry-out at depth, or if it does, it is going to get regular watering. Growing anything in a tub in that position is plant cruelty, if for no other reason than that roots will bake, which no normal plant likes. You do not say how large/tall the walls are. Also, just like music, beauty (how "jaw-dropping") is always in the eye/ear of the beholder.

If the walls are big enough, I'd go for climbers, or climber. None of these are self-supporting.
At the simplest level, some of the Canary ivy (Hedera canariensis) cultivars are spectacular, and are quick once established - one or two cultivars are brilliant lemon yellow and very dark green irregularly variegated. No flowers of course (or not worthy of note).
A labour of love, but variegated Trachylospermum jasminoides is one hell of a plant when in flower, and the flowers can go on for quite a time. Reasnably slow and not cheap to buy (you cn buy large palnts at huge expense).
Roses need more attention and depending on the height of the wall you'd need a climber or rambler - climbers make only 4-6 feet in height, ramblers do more height - in some varieties (e.g. Rambling Rector) 60 feet and more. They require VERY simple pruning - just completely remove older stems at the base each winter once established. Choice of variety is lmost limitless and many will flower for an age, and everyone knows about the possibilities of scent.
Wisteria is a possibility but spectacular only when in flower or when ancient, when the gnarled form of the trunk and branches can have great beauty.

If you don't want climbers, there are some very tropical borderline hardy herbaceous plants that might work, but they are THIRSTY. The tricky bit is establishing them. They will be cut down by frost but the root-stock/tuber will over-winter fine with minimal protection and not water-logged.
Some Datura species/cultivars. They vary in maximum height from about 60cm to 200cm, and higher. Some are variegated, some are shrubs/small trees rather than herbaceous.
Hedychiums. They are mostly in the 100-300cm region.
Maybe a banana - Musa or Ensete. Again they'd be cut down by the first frost, but HUGE varieties are grown by the dedicated living way north in the UK - they bury them in straw or bracken each year in late autumn and remove it in late spring.

There are also some very exotic-looking S African bulbs that would do well at the base of the wall, but truly spectacular only when in flower -
Eucomis, now available in a variety of sizes and umpteen colours, including red/broze foliage.
Crinum - leaves look similar, but flowers do not, many are scented
There are also Crinum hybrids with other genera - Amocrinum?????? (hybrid with Amarylis)
Agapanthus - endless shades of blue/blue-purple, and white, everything from 15cm to 200cm tall flower spikes.
In time, they will all offset and make a huge clump. The bulbs sit only JUST in the soil surface, maybe one third under-ground. Agapanthus is a sort of rhizome, sitting just under the soil surface.

If you really are looking for something striking all or most of the year, you are really looking at spectacular foliage, which means huge (banana, but shows nothing in winter), or variegated (loads of choice).

Anything sound/look attractive? Anything actually potentially suitable?



I also asume that it will be planted into decent soil and that the soil will not dry-out at depth, or if it does, it is going to get regular watering. There's a good automatic irrigation system in place, so yes.

If the walls are big enough, I'd go for climbers, or climber. None of these are self-supporting. One story high on both sides, so about 12 feet. There's a Vitis purpurea near the spot and an Agave.


At the simplest level, some of the Canary ivy (Hedera canariensis) cultivars are spectacular, and are quick once established - one or two cultivars are brilliant lemon yellow and very dark green irregularly variegated. No flowers of course (or not worthy of note).
Quite a good idea partly because I think that it's best to think of foliage first.


A labour of love, but variegated Trachylospermum jasminoides is one hell of a plant when in flower, and the flowers can go on for quite a time. I
grow loads of it in large containers -- I must have four or five huge specimens. It is very good in containers. (But I've never tried the variegated variety.)


Roses need more attention and depending on the height of the wall you'd need a climber or rambler - climbers make only 4-6 feet in height, ramblers do more height - in some varieties (e.g. Rambling Rector) 60 feet and more. They require VERY simple pruning - just completely remove older stems at the base each winter once established. Choice of variety is lmost limitless and many will flower for an age, and everyone knows about the possibilities of scent.
No, no no -- too big, too prickly, and too boring when not in flower. I may write to Peter Beals though, see if he has any interesting ideas.


Wisteria is a possibility but spectacular only when in flower or when ancient, when the gnarled form of the trunk and branches can have great beauty.
I have a stunner against another wall -- one with very long racimes -- Wisteria floribunda I think. It took more than five years to flower, but now you can't stop it.


Some Datura species/cultivars. They vary in maximum height from about 60cm to 200cm, and higher. Some are variegated, some are shrubs/small trees rather than herbaceous. Interesting, will explore.


Hedychiums. They are mostly in the 100-300cm region.
Interesting, will explore.


Maybe a banana - Musa or Ensete. Again they'd be cut down by the first frost, but HUGE varieties are grown by the dedicated living way north in the UK - they bury them in straw or bracken each year in late autumn and remove it in late spring.
No, they just look horrible for six months of the year, and the leaves are too big for against the wall in a corner!

There are also some very exotic-looking S African bulbs that would do well at the base of the wall, but truly spectacular only when in flower -
Eucomis, now available in a variety of sizes and umpteen colours, including red/broze foliage.
Crinum - leaves look similar, but flowers do not, many are scented
There are also Crinum hybrids with other genera - Amocrinum?????? (hybrid with Amarylis)
Agapanthus - endless shades of blue/blue-purple, and white, everything from 15cm to 200cm tall flower spikes.
In time, they will all offset and make a huge clump. The bulbs sit only JUST in the soil surface, maybe one third under-ground. Agapanthus is a sort of rhizome, sitting just under the soil surface.

Yes I should look into bulbs.

I'll tell you one thing I'm thinking of -- but it's a biannual so would mean work to keep it going. Echium pininana. They grow it in a walled garden in The Victoria and Albert Museum near some purple hydrangeas and it looks -- jaw dropping. I don't think it will grow as high as this for me though!

echium-pink_a9cd38d9-0b6c-45f4-bdb0-57fc13c24eba_740x.jpg



Another thing I once saw in France growing against a wall was some bamboo with amazing thick culms -- maybe Phyllostachys vivax aureocaulis. I'm afraid to plant it in the ground though because it's such a potential nuisance. Last year I bought a specimen and the biggest black plastic pot that I could find on eBay -- so far so good.

Another idea is a Eucopyptus! I know, crazy, but maybe not all of them will make the house fall down! And I could pollard it.

And another is an unexpected fruit -- maybe a fan trained apricot.

Any thoughts about really wacky conifers -- Monkey Puzzle type of thing?
 
Gardeners' Question Time, anyone? Global warming; 4 degrees, dark and rain, 1 week into May. Pull the other one! Even greenhouse plants surely can't survive that long in this miserable extension of winter. My ladies' fingers (okra) need a sinecure, not a manicure. Utterly pissed off by this northerly air-stream. There'll probably be an almost equally dire prolonged heatwave to compensate, later on. Oh, this temperate isle of extremes !!!!!
 
Echiums are spectacular when they flower - several species, and not all are biannuals. Not all are blue. if you succedd they produce vast quantities of seed. Not difficult from seed either.

Similar, but not quite, but vey slow - Veratrums. Not ideal in the position though unless really cosetted

Many bamboos are non-invasive, but that generally means that they are SLOW, and expensive to buy.

Eucalyptus?????? Don't do much for me. The hardiest is gunnii which is grown commercially for cut foliage. Grown as a stooled plant - basically copiced. As mature trees they can be specatacular due to their peeling/shredding bark and shimmering leaves - like London plane, but more so.

Stone fruits - in many ways far more hassle than roses. If you fancy a try, buy a self-fertile variety, although you may find that even they need hand pollination - most of them flower too early in the year for enough insects to be on the wing.
I can think of only one tree fruit REALLY worth trying if pushed to have just one unusual one - a black mulberry. If you haven't eaten them, they have a unique taste, sort of cherry and raspberry and blackberry and............ they can produce HUGE crops. Have a look how they can be grown - all the ones that I know are free-standing small(ish) trees.

Conifers - again, not my thing. Chilean pine (monkey puzzle) - fugly and NOT for anything but parkland, where they can and usually do look majestic.
Some of the yew cultivars are extremely nice, and not as slow-growing as is usually claimed.
To my tastes the only conifers that are really attractive start to get so at something like 10-15 feet, and, in truth, there are many of those - blue and/or very long and grass-like needles, beautiful shedding bark.

Not sure of position but it ought to do absolutely fine once established - another climber that I adore - can't think of the name!!!! Tri-coloured leaves - green, pink and silver, small panicles of white, highly scented flowers.
 
Gardeners' Question Time, anyone? Global warming; 4 degrees, dark and rain, 1 week into May. Pull the other one! Even greenhouse plants surely can't survive that long in this miserable extension of winter. My ladies' fingers (okra) need a sinecure, not a manicure. Utterly pissed off by this northerly air-stream. There'll probably be an almost equally dire prolonged heatwave to compensate, later on. Oh, this temperate isle of extremes !!!!!
Informed opinion of course is that it's climate change causing the changes in weather patterns.
 
Vinny, you're either omniscient or a wizard with a search engine. I'm leaning towards the former, so can I use you as an alternative to DuckDuckGo? :)
 
Actinidia kolomikta!!!

I always remember that it starts with A, and then doubt myself. Fabulous thing. It also fruits if you have male and female plants - supposedly edible and pleasantly so. Actinida chinensis/deliciosa is the kiwi fruit/Chinese gooseberry.
 


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