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System Pics 2021

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Here is a current photo of the (rather messy) complete system.

Speakers are Graham LS6.

The dac in the picture is a Nagra Classic Dac and power supply, which is on loan while my Nagra HD Dac is being upgraded to a Tube Dac.

There are the P8 and PTP turntables, of course. Three phono stages - the Rega Aura, Whest 40RDTSE and Tron Convergence Signatyure/EAR MC4.

LFD integrated amp.

At the bottom is a Niimbus US4 headphone amp, with Audeze LCD4s hidden to the side of the turntable on the right. There is also an EAR HP4 headphone amp out of the picture.

Next to the headphone amp is a bunch of network gear not current connected - Etheregen, Optical Rendu and their power supplies.

Cables are all from a local maker called Aurealis.



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Hi Ross is that A glider cartridge on the P8?
 
I don't use spacers with either the Benz Glider, the DV 20X2L or the Ortofon Cadenza Bronze. The arm height on the P8 and P10 seems to be higher than on the other Rega turntables. Also, I use the Collaro mat which probably accounts for about 1mm. The arm is level without spacers.
 
I don't use spacers with either the Benz Glider, the DV 20X2L or the Ortofon Cadenza Bronze. The arm height on the P8 and P10 seems to be higher than on the other Rega turntables. Also, I use the Collaro mat which probably accounts for about 1mm. The arm is level without spacers.
interesting wondering if my Hana SL would work sans spacer
 
I suspect it would. If you already have the P8 and the Hana it's worth giving it a try. Even if you do end up needing to use a spacer, the Acoustic Signature spacers are very easy to use.
 
Sorry, Conrad, I was wrong about that. I have just reinstalled a Cadenza Bronze on my P8 and it needed a 2mm spacer. The other cartridges I mentioned may also need similar spacers. However, as I mentioned, the Acoustic Signature spacers are easy to use and I would rather spend an extra 5 minutes installing a spacer to use the cartridge of my choice than be locked into using Rega cartridges.
 
I thought that you might appreciate some colour coordination!

Pink Troika by Steve, on Flickr
Finally an f-ing photo in the photo thread! I needed some eye candy after looking at the MQA thread for too long. I'll try to keep the ball rolling. Here's my vintage system which is a work in progress:
  • Sansui AU-717 amp that I overhauled last year.
  • Sansui TU-517 that was sold as 'for parts or not working' but turned out to just have no working bulbs.
  • JBL 4312A monitors that I'm in the process of restoring and re-veneering.




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Note the face mask actually being used for something other than preventing the spread of Covid. I never used to be able to find a mask when I needed them. Now they're all over the place!
 
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Finally an f-ing photo in the photo thread! I needed some eye candy after looking at the MQA thread for too long. I'll try to keep the ball rolling. Here's my vintage system which is in progress.
  • Sansui AU-717 amp that I overhauled last year.
  • Sansui TU-517 that was sold as 'for parts or not working' but turned out to just have no working bulbs.
  • JBL 4312A monitors that I'm in the process of restoring and re-veneering.




IMG-20210404-151514.jpg


Note the face mask actually being used for something other than preventing the spread of Covid!
A different take on an open baffle design!

PS, that amp and tuner very pretty indeed!
 
How’s the 717 sounding? Always fancied one of these! Was the overhaul just recaps or much much more?
How does it sound? It’s hard to tell because it hasn’t been hooked up since I tested it after the rebuild! It is too deep for the shelf in our living room so it’s waiting in the wings until Covid settles down and we move to our next city.

Here's a thread covering the project: https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/sansui-au-717-overhaul.248541/

It was all the electrolytics, some films were upgraded, diodes were replaced, the relay was replaced (and probably the main fault). Electrolytics are much smaller these days for equivalent values, so almost all of them were replaced with Nichicon PW caps with higher voltage ratings (and some with higher capacitance).

The chassis was almost completely disassembled, both for access and because it was filthy inside. Oh, and the most critical part was the removal of the glue they originally used to hold large parts to the PCB while soldering. The yellow glue is corrosive, and turns red where it comes in contact with metal. So anything it oozed onto (lots of misc resistors and caps) was replaced. And to ensure the glue was completely gone the PCB holes were reamed with a pin vise drill. They're only single sided PCBs so there was no risk of damaging vias.

There are many more photos in this Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmS7T9wE
 
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