mikemusic
pfm Member
Speak to Tony at Coherent
[email protected]
https://coherent-systems.co.uk/
He is on PFM as
CoherentSystems
Home remodeling - tips for mains and network
- Thread starter ste71
- Start date
[email protected]
https://coherent-systems.co.uk/
He is on PFM as
CoherentSystems
rn82497
pfm Member
Thanks Mike.
"Although I did not use Russ Andrews / Kimber products, I followed his circuit diagram.
I also have a garden earth spike and followed his guide to make sure it was safe and legal"
I must be a real mug for following BS7671 when I work and not Russ Andrews ideas.
Does he sell cryogenically treated earth spikes and do they improve the impedance ?
I also have a garden earth spike and followed his guide to make sure it was safe and legal"
I must be a real mug for following BS7671 when I work and not Russ Andrews ideas.
Does he sell cryogenically treated earth spikes and do they improve the impedance ?
Big John
pfm Member
True however I understand boosters are fitted on the cable whether fiber optic or copper.
Yes, and there are switches and repeaters, etc. all along the way. Still, that doesn't really indicate the need for special cabling or hardware to get packets across a house.
philsparks
pfm Member
we gradually installed a proper cat-5e network as we refurbed our house. One of the best things we did, to have a full speed ethernet socket near wherever you're sitting or decide to plonk the TV or HiFi is fab. Netflix 4k never buffers for us, if it every moves to 8k you'll be glad of proper cable.
The only few things I'd suggest are:
(i) choose a groovy colour for the cable - really, I got a couple of 1000ft boxes of bright red stuff, so if ever I look under a floorboard I can spot the network cables quickly, especially useful if you've left a spare cable behind a blanking plate or skirting board for later use
(ii) map out your house, but also consider what may change. As the kids left home to go to uni we created an office in what was a bedroom, luckily there were enough sockets to repurpose the room and move the router & switch
(iii) get proper full copper cable, not the cheaper and more brittle aluminium coated in copper stuff
(iv) this is the key one - put in loads more runs than you think you'll ever need. It might cost a couple of hundred quid extra in cable, but having say 4 wires to each room rather than one gives you future options. Pulling up carpet, laminate flooring, etc is a monumental pain in the arse. Also if a builder/mouse chews through a cable you want to have a spare there.
The only few things I'd suggest are:
(i) choose a groovy colour for the cable - really, I got a couple of 1000ft boxes of bright red stuff, so if ever I look under a floorboard I can spot the network cables quickly, especially useful if you've left a spare cable behind a blanking plate or skirting board for later use
(ii) map out your house, but also consider what may change. As the kids left home to go to uni we created an office in what was a bedroom, luckily there were enough sockets to repurpose the room and move the router & switch
(iii) get proper full copper cable, not the cheaper and more brittle aluminium coated in copper stuff
(iv) this is the key one - put in loads more runs than you think you'll ever need. It might cost a couple of hundred quid extra in cable, but having say 4 wires to each room rather than one gives you future options. Pulling up carpet, laminate flooring, etc is a monumental pain in the arse. Also if a builder/mouse chews through a cable you want to have a spare there.
Mike Reed
pfm Member
Before I installed my radial system, I looked at R.A., as I was using his power leads etc., and he recommended his twisted Kimber type mains lead, which cost a small fortune. I, like most people, simply used t & e. Unfortunately, that 'circuit diagram' is too indistinct for my eyes and magnifying glass, bit it looks like he's recommending using the 4existing domestic c.u. I must be wrong there, surely.
There are a number of ways of dedicating your mains, but if taking your radials from a c.u. near your incoming, there's only one way of doing it 100%, i.m.o.
I do hope that your existing earth bonding is TT (usually found in older and rural properties). this is where the domestic earth is locally sited. If PME, where earth is connected to the sub-station, you're taking a risk. However, I guess R.A. explained all that.